Arrival at Fulaga in the Southern Lau
16 July 2014 | Fulaga (Vulaga)
Lisa Anderson
Island in Fulaga Lagoon
July 16, 2014
After over twenty seven hours of sailing (as opposed to motoring), from Viani Bay to Fulanga - which is practically unheard of due to the normally consistent south east trade winds, we carefully approached the pass (a narrow entrance into the lagoon with coral on either side) to enter the archipelago of Fulanga, southern Lau, Fiji. Several days earlier we had learned of the coming shift in winds, from the west, and we knew this was our chance to make haste to the south. We were exhausted though from this run. It had been boisterous, to say the least, and sleep had been almost impossible.
So, now that we had arrived, we weren't 100% sure we could enter. We have exact waypoints to follow and the sun is out for good visibility of the deadly coral but when was high tide? When is there an out going tide? Will there be standing waves at the entrance? No one could answer these questions, including the boats that were already anchored inside. We just had to approach and take a look for ourselves and if the conditions looked less than favorable we would just have to pace on the outside and wait. Fortunately to our delight, the pass looked calm and clear and with Ben on the bow, Larry at the helm, and me as the go between we glided through the pass into one of the most magical places we have ever been.
Fulanga only recently opened back up to outsiders, in 2012. Rumor has it that back in the '60's or 70's illegal drugs had passed through this part of Fiji and the chief at that time simply shut the Lau Group down from any outside influence. Here we are now, experiencing this beautiful place with only a handful of other boaters...it is surreal.
The water is turquoise like no other turquoise we have seen before. The clarity takes you back at first because you think you are going to run aground, but in reality you really have over twenty feet under your keel as you pass over the sandy bottom and scattered coral heads. And then there are these limestone, mushroom-like islands that have grown out of the sea floor within the lagoon, with plants and palm trees growing out of them. They give the place an "Alice in Wonderland" feel. We are pinching ourselves...are we really here?!
Ed note: Will post shots of Fulaga in the gallery in the next day or two, internet permitting! As always you can click on "Where are we" on the right side of this page, scroll down to the 2nd map and it will show on google earth for an aerial view of this area.