Mangoes collected along the pathways from three islands went into a batch of Mango Chutney brewed aboard Spruce yesterday. We keep reminding readers that the tales of sailing derring do are few and far between; most of our time is engaged in living aboard, maintaining and fixing boat systems, socialising and seeing new places, peoples and cultures. Swapping recipes and sharing galley tips is a way of life. The Mango Chutney was concocted from advice gained from there boats and a sprinkling of je ne sais quoi. Although we were told to stow the brew for 3 weeks before testing our first try came only hours after ladling into jars: very tasty and all must be consumed before arriving in New Zealand or it will be confiscated as contraband likely to harm local agriculture.
Yesterday evening we held a return social event for boats in this anchorage. Convivial conversation, nibbles, rum punch, wine fish pie and carrot cake all contributed to a cheerful crowd swapping tales into the evening. Two of the four vessels involved will be along a similar route for another month or so then two will hurry on towards Australia before the cyclone season. Two can afford time to dally in the Kingdom of Tonga. New Zealand is less distance and the delights of Fiji and Vanu-Atu can await 2014.
Exploration into the hinterland this morning following a dinghy ride for a few miles showed the climate to be humid and hot for hiking. En route we enjoyed an rendezvous with several Manta rays lazily feeding in the bay and a very brief encounter with a 2 metre shark drifting on the surface. A wet crossing of the bar into the local river gave access to a concrete jetty one half mile upstream. Uphill walking proved extremely sweaty and slippery on tracks wetted by overnight rainfall. Our objective was a rather neglected series of stone platforms with a number of reddish rock Tikis. A similar archaeological site to the ones seen in Hiva Oa. Spiritual locations with special meaning to historical Polynesian inhabitants. The tikis here are small statues into which the spirit of revered ancestors has passed, to remain with the community into posterity. The Marquesas are at the eastern edge of the lands populated by the migration of Polynesian peoples from SE Asia. We will be encountering this cultural heritage all the way to New Zealand, the islands most recently migrated to by Polynesian ocean navigators. Our experience of the vastness of this ocean makes their achievements all the more remarkable in our minds.
The finale to our day, after another thorough soaking in the surf, was a very British cup of tea and slab of carrot cake each back aboard Spruce.
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Our passage to Nuka Hiva started slowly. Once out of the lee of the island a steady 18-20 knots of wind from near astern pushed us smartly on our way. Only a genoa hoisted to avoid a series of downwind gybes. Come the halfway mark and the promised continuance of fresh breeze failed us, the remainder of our passage was at a slower pace. A large pod of Pan Tropical Spotted Dolphins joined us for a half hour, playfully darting across our bow as we sluggishly surfed at 5 knots speed. Remarkably they stayed for so long at such a slow speed.
The huge size of the land was put into perspective by the sails of Wild Fox, red junk rig, and Juffa some 4-5 miles ahead. They were both 8 miles from the coast and looked minuscule against the hazy mass of the eastern end of Nuku Hiva. Far to port we could see tall pinnacles of crag on the island of Ua Pou, a future destination 30 moiles to the south. Astern, Ua Huka was still clearly visible. Another group of volcanic islands cast out into an ocean but somehow different than the Atlantic equivalent. In some respects the rock formations resemble the canyon-lands of Utah in the USA, or the coasts of Scotland and Ireland. A strange mixture of bare, smooth, grassy slopes and jagged steep sided broken rock-faces. Deciduous trees contrasted with patches of palm trees, no doubt introduced for the valuable crop of copra used in the soap and cosmetic industries. Most small communities in these islands have a scattering of large trays, under moveable roofs, used for drying moisture from the coconut flesh, before packing into sacks and loading aboard the trading ship Aranui, when she does her regular re-supply tour of the Marquesas.
Swooping low across the water a Brown Booby suddenly plunges into the bay. As he hits the water a shoal of tiny fish leap skywards, minus the one hanging from a salivating beak. A delightful cacophony of song bird chatter floats across the anchorage. The rich diversity of foliage provides a range of habitats with a wide assortment of species. Domestic animals wander along trails, clinging to steep pathways as they forage. Goats and cattle bleat and low, adding their voices to the chorus. A gentle swell finds its way into the bay; the movement is not unpleasant and we are likely to remain here, or in the adjacent cove, for a few days more.
Photo shows Flapjack from Spruce as we approach Baie Controlleur.
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Initial doubts about the wind forecast materialising rapidly diminished as the breeze filled in and increased. Most of the passage had our canvas pressed by around 20 knots of fresh breeze blowing from just abaft the beam: occasional drizzly squalls gave 25-28 knots. A slight additional push from the equatorial current and our speed hovered between 7 and 8 knots for the duration. As Hiva Oa began to fade, far astern, Sue called Land Ho on our destination ahead.
The dim coastline emerged from dull murk, shapes hardened as we approached. Grey squalls with tell-tale vertical streaks of rain obscured first one end, and then the other, of a craggy island: a mixture of igneous rock, packed volcanic cinder and lava moulded into fantastic shapes by wind, rain and the sea. Our landfall was to be at a west-cardinal mark. Frustrated due to the buoy having dragged to the opposite side of the bay. Woe betide anybody attempting to pass to the west of that beacon. Our planned anchorage was open to the swell creeping between the headland and off lying islet. A night here would result in an uncomfortable sleep laying beam on to the seas, so on to the west: one anchorage down and two to check out. The second was no better, far more open to the swell and a long inlet which could become dangerous. Third time lucky. Still a bit of swell but nothing too untoward.
The lucky third choice proved a gusty spot. A night spent with winds blasting down from overbearing cliffs. One moment calm then 30 knots hurtling through the bay, boats laying over as they desperately try to swing with the blow responding to the unforetold pressure. Swell is forecast to increase, the waves are thundering onto the beach and we would feel uneasy leaving the boat unattended while we visit distant attractions ashore. It is still early but we may well haul our anchor and sail to Nuku Hiva, visible 25M to the west, and pass this beautiful island by.
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Yesterday we sailed round to Baie Hanamenu on the north-west coast of Hiva Oa as planned. This morning at first light (05:30 local time) we set off for Ua Haku some 55M north-north-west. So far we are motoring in the lee of the big island. Hoping for 15kn from the east, when we get clear, and a romping reach. Fishing lines are out and all passing Dorade and Tuna are invited to dinner.
A large pod of dolphins joined us for a brief play. Only 0 minutes then off to the important business of catching fish - maybe that's why the tuna are scarce:-)
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Five dives, so far, in Les Iles Marquises: only two pleasure excursions, the rest were checking anchors and cleaning the bottom of the hull. Yesterday was the most satisfying yet. Since 2009, we have carried books on reef fish identification. However, the majority of the entries have been for Pacific fishes and the few attributable to the Atlantic were much less colourful. Here in Les Marquises we are on the edge of the tropically warm Pacific. As we travel westwards, the number of amazing fish should increase. Already we are enjoying some unbelievable colour schemes and camouflage strategies.
Tomorrow we plan to sail 12M north to Baie Hanamenu on the north-west coast of Hiva Oa. That will position us nicely for an early start on Monday for the 53M passage to the island of Ua Huka. Pleasant though it is to dawdle around these stunning islands we are mindful we still have some 4,000 miles of sailing and many new lands to visit before we reach New Zealand, before the next cyclone season, in five months time. Another two weeks exploring Les Marquises then we must be on our way to the Tuamotus.
Photo shows an Ornate Butterfly Fish.
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