26/Mar/2012, Prickly Bay - Grenada
Forgot to update the position for the sailblogs map, so here goes.
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26/Mar/2012, Prickly Bay - Grenada
A steady wind from the east of near to 20 knots gave ideal conditions for a reach down the windward side of Grenada back to Prickly Bay. An early departure from Ashton bay, close behind Frigate Island, and in to Clifton Bay for formalities. The customs office didn't open in the town so a short stroll to the airport for clearing out of St Vincent and the Grenadines. The anchorage in Clifton is crowded with but does present a lovely view across the protective reef towards the Atlantic Ocean. Paperwork completed and we set off past Petit St Vincent and along the windward side of Carriacou and into Grenadian waters. A swift change of flags at the spreaders and we romped between the reefs off to each side. Breaking waves clearly showing where the shoal waters lay beneath the turbulent surface. The white surf dazzling in the bright sunshine. So the day continued for our eight-hour sail back to Prickly Bay on the South coast. Most of the day spent sailing at 7 knots, ticking off the various islands, islets and rocks as we made our way southwards. The highlight of the day was a first catch on the lure given to us by Bert & Marlene from Heimkehr as a launching present. The small Barracuda grinned accusingly at us as we hauled him aboard, fierce teeth threatening as we dispatched him and prepared for eating.
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24/Mar/2012, Ashton - Union Island - SVG
Time spent tying new lures, designed to be attractive to tuna, has not been rewarded today. Only a few miles towing the tasty looking fare and nothing to barbecue. An anchorage new to ourselves beside Frigate Island just off the small town, village by UK standards, of Ashton. Another splendid spot, some sunken pilings from an aborted marina development along the shore towards Ashton edge the shallow inshore areas of the bay. Snorkeling out by Frigate Island itself is good. Many glorious fan corals with a variety of colours abound on a bottom covered with large boulders. The changes in depth provide a varied environment for many species of creature. Today's sightings include: several Lobsters, Glassy Sweepers, Queen Angel Fish, Red Fin Parrot Fish, Squirrel Fish, Hermit Crabs, Scrawled Cow Fish, Bar Jacks, a huge Spotted Fin Burr Fish and the ubiquitous Grunts to name but a few.
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24/Mar/2012, Chatham Bay - Union Island - SVG
One of the problems when cruising in the Caribbean is getting a decent amount of exercise. The heat during daylight hours makes walking an extremely hot and sweaty activity, not the preference of many cruisers. Brisk swimming is the most pleasant, and cool method of toning muscles; a mile or two kicking while wearing fins gives the legs a good work out. Stretching the legs with an uphill walk, in spite of the heat, is something we go for every so often. Yesterday we hiked from the beach in Chataham Bay to a tree and scrub cloaked peak at the North West of the island. A wonderful walk accompanied by many fragrant flowers filling the air with their pungent aroma. Humming Birds flitted from blossom to blossom, long proboscises sampling succulent nectar at each hovering blur of a pause. the dense woodland was a beautiful cacophony of bird song, the loud chirping of flycatchers maintaining dominance. Butterflies and dragonflies darted along the track, lizards scurried into cover as our footfall warned of impending danger.
We breasted the ridge and the trade winds gave instant relief to the heat endured during the climb. Grass covered clearings opened out; the occasional cow, tethered to a long webbing strap, idly munched the coarse dry grass. A small farmlet straddled the track. A pond full of lillies looked remarkably like a European "Village Pond", complete with white ducks paddling, chickens and guinea fowl strutted alongside. A Frenchman owned the property and appeared to have created his own piece of Normandy in the Grenadines.
Nearing the peak new fauna ran for cover: a large iguana, about a metre long, and a land-hermit crab dragged his shell home into the shade. The views from the peak were well worth the hot haul to the top. A craggy volcanic lump protruded just above the small trees and cactus to give glorious views across to Canouan, Mayreau and the crowded Tobago Cays with its forest of yacht masts clearly visible.
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21/Mar/2012, Chatham Bay - Union Island - SVG
An early departure to escape the Tobago Cays and the hoards of boats. Thirty-eight in our anchorage overnight, before breakfast was finished another six arrived from the fleshpots of Union Island and Mayreau. Rather like Priory Bay, back in the Solent on a sunny day, when the marinas empty out for a day at the beach. Much busier than our last visit in 2010, maybe the recession is easing and more people are fleeing winter weather.
A gentle run before a steady breeze across the narrow channel to Chatham bay at the West end of Union Island. A new place for us and a quite different environment. High ground to the southeast, bedecked with lush foliage, grey solid igneous rock thrusting though the trees. Their sheer edges ruggedly gazing down on the bay below, squalls of wind bursting out across the water to pounce on yachts lazily tugging at anchor.
Our anchorage along the north side provides a mixture of scenery. Turks Head cactus clinging to barren ledges, Brown Boobies nestled under overhangs, the rock below streaked with the guano of ages. Bonaparte's Gulls chuckling at the world in general as they hop from perch to perch. Comical Atlantic Brown Pelicans lumbering through the air until clumsily falling into the water; onto unsuspecting fish, gorging on rich tropical fare below.
Altogether a lovely anchorage and a pleasant change from the Cays.
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21/Mar/2012, Tobago Cays - St Vincent & Grenadines
Skies ominously darkening, deep grey and lowering as they crept eastwards from the Atlantic. A gradually increasing swell began penetrating across the reef, turbulent waves glowing brilliant white against the backdrop of approaching grey. The water in the anchorage became more choppy, Spruce started rocking uncomfortably, we upped the hook and relinquished our empty anchorage in favour of the crowded, but more sheltered spot, south of Baradal Island. However, still a good trade wind breeze, providing superb ventilation through the boat; a good time to make bread and biscuits. The tortuous aroma of baking loaves filled the cabin before being whisked out of the hatch and off across the seas to the nearby island of Mayreau. No doubt crews tethered downwind would be sniffing the air with taste buds also tempted.
The biscuits were a special mix, a Christmas present from friends Alan & Michelle back in Fareham. Carefully stowed away for an occasion to celebrate. We decided the glorious blend of ultramarines, azures, turquoises, prussians and other regiments and fleets of the blue, pressing back against the impending grey, was occasion enough for a treat.
As dusk wrapped its warm blanket about the anchorage the winds increased, backed forty-five degrees. The heavens opened. First a sprinkling then a good deluge. Water cans rapidly filled as the rain-catcher flooded, then the welcome flow was diverted to the main tanks. Ample fresh water and plenty for showers galore a few days more.
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