06/Jun/2012, Willemstad - Curacao
A day wandering around Willemstad. This morning we spent our time at a local museum. Many exhibits casting illumination on the sordid slave trade during the past half millenium. The extent of Dutch interests during the 17th and 18th centuries is little known to many in the UK. The Dutch colonies in Surinam (formerly Dutch Guiana), Brazil, the Caribbean islands of Aruba, Bonaire, Curacao in the south and Saba, Statia and St Maarten in the north gave great demand for slaves to be brought from Africa. The artefacts and exhibits show only too clearly the harrowing trail of suffering across the Atlantic and into the Americas.
Quite a trek to reach Willemstad from our anchorage in Spaanse Water, caused mainly by unpunctuality of the bus services rather than any excessive distance. None the less, it is very pleasant to have a day to soak in the history and sights of Curacao's capital city without needing to rush between the offices of officialdom.
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03/Jun/2012, Spaanse Water - Curacao
Lots of wind whistling through the anchorage here in Spaanse Water. A little less breeze overnight but the heating of the land during the sunny day brings on some vicious gusts of near gale force. Our chance to zoom ashore for some exercise and a stroll about the locale came after a hearty breakfast before the wind picked up, fortunately downwind to the dinghy dock at the Fisherman's Bar so we were able to stay dry until the return leg.
The area has evidently seen some changes over the past few centuries; remnants of former establishments lay crumbling in the acacia and shrubbery surrounding Caracasbaai. A sunbaked fort from earlier centuries gazes across the water, probably a Spanish edifice from a bygone colonial era; a mixture of stone and thin Georgian style bricks making castellations in the circular tower. Cannons, some mounted in wooden trolleys, pointed seaward; corrosion and pitting removing all indications of their origins. Imagination running away to picture clusters of coastal shipping hiding beneath the protection of fort and guns. Canvas and hemp bleached in the sun. Seamen terrified of attack by a French or British privateer anxiously peering across the offshore waves whipped into a frenzy by trade winds.
A couple of days back to Willemstad this week to see the sights and visit museums. Later in the week we'll start thinking about continuing westwards.
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02/Jun/2012, Spaanse Water & Willemstad - Curacao
Departing from Bonaire was sad but the time was right. A little over three weeks spent largely under the waters of this arid, low lying, Caribbean island left fond memories. However, once the thrills and novel visual stimuli start seeming familiar we were ready to move on westwards. The sail to Curacao some 35-Miles over the horizon was fast and quite boisterous; as Spruce cleared the lee of Bonaire the Atlantic seas, quite short and choppy, caught us under the port quarter and lifted us into the commencement of one of many a corkscrew rolls. A large pod of dolphins joined us for a play in the tumbling foam of our bow wave, the jueveniles staying longest not realising the urgent business of hunting was afoot. Unheard underwater sounds from their elders soon brought them to heel as they peeled off zooming to the south with the effortless flick of a tail.
Spaanse Water (Spanish Water) was gained through a narrow entrance and short channel, the bay, a large expanse of sheltered area, opened out before us. A short while spent pottering around under engine in 25 knots of funneling wind and we found space in one of the approved mooring zones; our first time tugging at our own anchor since Grenada, due to Bonaire's statutory moorings only reef friendly policy.
Our first morning in Curacao was reserved for the bus trek to the capital town of Willemstad and the hike between separate locations for Customs, Immigration and Harbour Master offices. The bus was late, lunch intervened and we found ourselves stopping, between officials, for lunch at a bar/bistro with outdoor seating on a terrace. Culture shock indeed. Latin American music colourfully filled the air, the chef dancing before a barbecue amidst the tables. Staff calling to each other in Spanish, our interactions with them in a mixture of English, Dutch and the odd word of Espanol... another prompt to accelerate our slow progress with the Spanish courses back aboard, South America is coming close. Very quickly!
Our short reconnaissance visit to Willemstad will be followed up next week with a couple of days wandering about. First impressions are good, a mixture of the old and the modern. Multi-coloured colonial Dutch warehouses and buildings combined with newer development, some good and blending with the fine architecture and a few outrageous examples of garish modern hotels plonked amid beautiful 16th century fort walls.
Winds for going west are strong at the moment, this reputedly makes the passage around the hump of Venezuela very lumpy and uncomfortable in short period seas. We are content to remain here between one and two weeks but if the easing in conditions typical between the dry and wet seasons fails to materialise this year we'll most likely batten down the hatches and press on to reach Cartagena around the 22nd June. Until then ... a melding of cultures to be savoured.
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29/May/2012, North of Kralendijk
Brisk trade winds of up to 30 knots have been consistently blowing since we arrived here in Bonaire. There is some weather discussion there might be an easing in wind strength next week for the haul around the northerly Venezuelan coast from Aruba and on down to the Colombian ports of Santa Martha and Cartagena. Rough plans are to have our last dive today before heading off for a short peek at Curacao and the town of Willemstad either tomorrow or Thursday. The first good weather window for Cartagena will see us underway again for the Latin delights of South America.
Anyway, the sun is setting on our stay in Bonaire as we prepare to move on to Curacao, the Dutch Antillean island some 35 Miles to the west.
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27/May/2012, Bonaire
The final day with automotive transport and six went to the north west of the island. Past the Oil storage depot and off road onto rough dirt and coral tracks; weaving and manoeuvering to keep the person riding in the back of the pick-up truck as comfortable as possible, not to mention the pile of dive gear stowed alongside. The blazing sun beat down on the deep red track. Lizards and much larger iguana ran for their lives as we lurched towards them, heat shimmering off the bonnet (hood) as we searched our way to the unmarked dive sites extolled by the local dive shop.
Pulling up at the side of the route a bunch of people recently returned from a dive were quizzed about ease of entry and exit, what was to be seen underwater and currents. All sounded green for go in spite of the surf noisily breaking on the coral heads protruding into the shallows. Quite a game getting togged up amongst dirt and grit while trying to keep regulators and kit clean. The entry, while apparently formidable, was quite benign once our masks gave the underwater view, a clear path laid between the coral into deeper water. Paul laid out some old coral in the shape of a large arrow to mark the exit point for our return, we lined up on the car and a beacon above water to also provide a transit for the narrow safe route home. OK signals all round and thumbs down to signify descent. The erie underwater world opened out beneath as we slowly sank to 20 meters depth. Absolutely gorgeous. Wonderful large cascades of coral upon coral; eons of growth tumbling in an almost haphazard display of nature's magnificence.
The location was pristine in its splendour. The awkward approach route meant less folks troubled themselves to reach this dive site, hence a more developed display of old coral. Fish were abundant, a large Rainbow Parrot Fish about 4 feet long swam in the discreet distance, chewing away at coral and other foodstuffs. Many of the usual companions while diving in Bonaire came along to watch the strangers: Blue Tang, Black Durgeon, French Grunts, Angel Fish et al.
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... more underwater dwellers...Hawksbill Turtle - no scuba gear so he does need air...
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