This is a worthwhile trip to undertake if you are in the Santa Marta region of Colombia. The authorities have established a significant police and army presence to bolster the security in the area. Our tour operator was Magic Tours of Taganga/Santa Marta and our group thought they looked after us very well. One observation is that if you don't speak Spanish then try to join a group where somebody can translate for your language. Our thanks go to Thomas, Lena, Andrea and Mikey who helped for those of us who's Spanish is merely embryonic.
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23/Jul/2012, El Mamey to La Ciudad Perdida - Colombia
The trek to the ancient city, La Ciudad Perdida, also known as Ciudad Teyuna, began in a four wheel drive vehicle from a very different modern city, Santa Marta. A crowd of people, bouncing along a rough track, most unacquainted, whom would get to know each other hiking along a trail that was first opened up about 30 years ago. During the intervening period a chequered history had closed the route for a time. An area where farms once cultivated marijuana and cocaine; battles waged between authorities and drug cartels with the complicating factor of an incursion by a Marxist guerrilla army, the FARC. In 2003 a group of trekkers were kidnapped and spent more than 100 days in captivity. The trail closed awaiting an improved security situation.
Roaring of engines in low gear ranges and we hauled upwards, tight turns, large potholes and a driver anxious to make good time; he knew the trail and threw our vehicle into bends and switchbacks. Hanging on the back of our transport was a staff member who jumped on as we left the tarmac road for the trip to El Mamey, the start of the trail. A slower vehicle was passed at a slightly wider section, on their luggage rack another tour company employee lying on his back atop the rucksacks tied aloft. We had entered a crazy world; a far cry from European health and safety standards.
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Our full group combined at a café for lunch before setting off on a hot sweaty walk towards the river we would follow and cross many times. The sense of jollity as we sauntered along did not reflect the arduous day's hiking ahead. A brief stop at a deep pool for a swim and the sense of holiday atmosphere was complete.
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A few minutes back on the trail and the upward slog commenced. The track was in a gully; ages of feet and mule hooves had cut the trail deep. The sun soaked dusty earth reflected merciless heat at our group, now spread out over a large section of track. The absence of any breeze made the heat all the more oppressive. A long hour of ascent and we topped the first hill to a very welcome rest; a large slice of water-melon was gratefully received by the gasping party of travelers...
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...and the mules laden with the food ...
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Glowing red hot logs, ends burning in the clay ovens: sooty sided pans heating soup, water and coffee. A traditional open sided cook-house. No electricity, nor gas to fuel stoves. Our first Cabana, on the trail to La Ciudad Perdida, nestled in the foothills of the mountains of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Thirty walkers recovering after a hard day's hike and ready for a good meal. Our party numbered seventeen for the first day, tomorrow four would peel off early to do the trip in four days, leaving thirteen together for most of the trail. Later a decision could be made whether to complete the route in five or six days. The two yachties of the party had already made the decision on the extra day, enabling a more leisurely finish with only one major climb each day.
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