09/Aug/2012, Castillo San Felipe - Cartagena - Colombia
Standing sentinel over the old city of Cartagena sits Castillo San Felipe. This massive edifice started building in 1657 as part of a large scale improvement i of the city defences. Possibly the folklore of the citizens was still full of tales of pirate attacks and the destruction waged by Francis Drake less than 100 years earlier when he ransomed the city following a successful campaign. The military works were evidently sufficient; a major attack by Admiral Vernon in the eighteenth century failed miserably. Some 50 warships supported by a further 130 transports and support vessels attempted to take Cartagena, after this failure Admira Vernon returned to Britain to enter Parliament.
It seems so strange as we have traveled the Caribbean, US and Canada to see how much affected these distant lands have been by European conquest and politics over the past 500 years.
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...and Sue sizes up the massive Colombian National Flag billowing in the breeze...
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... another view of the huge walls.
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08/Aug/2012, Museo d'Oro - Cartagena - Colombia
Spanish treasure ships, pieces of eight, Drake, Hawkins and El Dorado. Names and memories from history lessons at school still rumble around in the depths of memory, to pop forth when triggered. The truth of the systematic rape and pillage of Central and South American culture and society was not fully apparent to us until we saw some of the fine workmanship executed more than 500 years before the Spanish Conquistadors strode out upon these shores.
A highly sophisticate series of civillisations inhabited the deltas, river valleys and high lands of what is now Colombia. Gold was relatively abundant in the rocks and washed down in river sediments towards the sea. Easily worked and alloyed with copper for simple tools the metal was widely used. European explorers and colonisers found rich pickings throughout the continent. Beautiful artifacts must have been destroyed by the cart load for the bullion value of the gold within and shipped back to the Iberian Peninsula; some being captured by vessel from hostile nations or pirates.
A sad history of occupation, destruction and, more recently, grave robbery on a colosal scale. Some of the wonderful pieces of ornament, jewellery and other objects have survived, a number are displayed in the Museo d'Oro in Cartagena and more can be seen, we are told, in Bogota.
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... and fine workmanship in these pieces (ear-rings we think), those nearest are approximately 75mm (3 inches) across.
...More photos will be added to the Cartagena album.
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06/Aug/2012, Cartagena - Colombia
A couple of days so far spent in Cartagena doing some sightseeing and settling in to a new location. Moored at Club de Pesca we have the luxury of just walking ashore and a short stroll to the city walls. In the embrace of the old harbour we have plenty of high rise buildings behind us and the old city a short distance away. Together with the shallow water and re-radiated sunshine from stonework and concrete the temperature and humidity is higher than back in Tayrona and Santa Marta. The gentle breeze that funnels below the bridge from ahead is most gratefully received.
Like many cities graced with spectacular architecture and grand curches tourism is big business here. A mixture of foreign and national visitors cluster and throng in the picturesque squares and narrow streets lined with balconied houses. Founded in 1533 the city has enjoyed and suffered during a long history dating back nearly to the earliest European occupation of these shores...
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