the sole is just ply with no epoxy or fiberglass or any cover on it...
so with it all unscrewed (it has to come out to find the keel bolts) im going to roll on floor paint with non skid on the top, and for the under side killz and a coat of rustoleum paint
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well after a hugeeeeeeee storm last night i said im going to ground her well she is on the stands i want to do the wire from the stays to the water, so well on the hard im going to take some s/s rigging wire from a stay to a jack stand. i hope this helps! anyone seen anything like this before??
if so if they can send me photos if they have them! my email is natfrost@comcast.net
thanks
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well i took the tiller off, and took 60grit on the RO to strip the old varnish, and surface rot... now i have it sanded and just need to cut the butt off, and rebuild the spot that the bracket is bolted im going to fill the holes there with thick epoxy and then brush neat epoxy over the rot and the butt of the tiller, after making the wood "thirsty" with a heat lamp! then im going to revarnish it with 6 coats of z-spar. ill put photos up as i go
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i also have to paint the ply wood block under the outboard kicker!
re paint boot strip
re paint the strip under the toe rail on the top sides (name???)
replace zinc on prop shaft
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the columbia has thru deck chainplates... these from what i hear can be a realllll bitch, because they want to leak.... now one of the p/o's says hey that damn thing needs to stop leakin so he or she slabs some sorta silicone-4200-5200... ontop YES ON TOP of the s/s plate! so the port chain plate is covered in white NOT GOOD! why? well s/s will rust when you take the air away from it, so it needs to be cut out the chain plate needs to be cleaned (or replaced???) and rebeded the right way so i dont lose the rig! and because i have plans on making this boat an offshore boat again a half ass job could kill me! so 4200??? i think will be used and if that leaks i will epoxy a "table top" under them to keep them just off the deck and not let as much water in. i want to do this safe with the rig up tho so im going to put the main halyard on the toe rail and winch it down and take off the shrouds, i will also do this on a calm day when (i hope) no storms will think its funny to come thru town. and alow it to cure for a week or so before sailing. after that i will re tune the rig. well i let it cure im also going to do some work on the old main and inspect the jib , i get a new main sail with the boat but i want to get as many miles out of the old main before bending on the new one! i want to spend a lot of time on the stick of this boat starting with a rig climbing to check blocks, fittings.. lube the sail track, tape the turnbuckles, replace the bulbs well im up there, and replace the boom topping lift as it is more than shot!
ill see what i find
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I got it from a glass shop. It was not expensive and not to difficult to work with. It is sticky as all get out.
Good luck
yes it is 10:56 pm, and i have to write up a work list, to keep me on track so...
bleach! i dont like to bleach stuff, but with old boats... so i will mix up more of my cocktail of bleach/water for all bare fiberglass and wood, this goes for cockpit lockers and bilge as well, do a "shock" to the water tank.
pump out
repair tiller with fiberglass then strip and varnish
prime and paint bare wood in cabin
sand prime and nonskid paint the sole
paint the anchor locker
paint the bilge
paint the cockpit lockers
paint the head
rebuild the heads door
make new seat covers
scrape pokemon stickers off vberth...
climb rig to check fittings... and replace boom topping lift
do 10 hour stuff to outboard
paint bottom
cut old seal out of keel and re 4200 it
sand bottom for paint
paint anchors
lube winches
add cockpit jacklines for storms and night sailing
re bed port shroud chainplate
wax hull
get cabin lights wired
ADD fans!
go sailing
go sailing
o and go sailing
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