Photo - Full moon in the Rio Plata, Argentina. February 2009


Last night is why you go to sea. It was a full moon, light winds, gentle swell, and this combined with a star filled sky, makes for very pleasant setting.

This morning, as is tradition, the wind filled in from the north, and is now blowing 20-23 knots. For those not familiar with these waters, Buenos Aires is north of Mar Del Plata, and up one of the widest river deltas in the world. So, once again, we find ourselves pounding into waves, dodging spray on deck, and making slow progress toward our destination. What else is new? Forgive my negative writing, but Matt and I have been doing this drill since Ecuador, and I have little else to complain about.

LONE STAR is showing the thousands of hard miles we have put on her. We have quite a list of repairs to make once in Buenos Aires.

To name a few:

Strip and re-varnish all exterior varnish with eight coats Varnish companionway area Overhaul all winches Repair soft wood on forward bulwark Paint underbody and boot stripe Replace starboard trailboard Overhaul main engine fuel injection pump Replace seal in transmission Replace electric bilge pump Adjust engine driven bilge pump Service all fire extinguishers Sails - replace staysail, modify mainsail reef points and repair batten pockets, hollow out leech of storm trysail, re-sew and or replace cover on headsail, replace sail covers, and repair awnings, replace headsail furling line, replace reef lines on mainsail. Replace Hi-Fi and DVD players Replace foul weather gear Replace thermostat control on refrigerator Repair water maker

I put together a list of suggestions on what you need for sailing in the southern region of Chile. I did not however, mention that you need to prepare yourself mentally for weeks and weeks of cold, wet, windy and often motoring into the wind conditions.

You also need a working knowledge of Spanish. In the last port, no one spoke English in the port offices, or in the marina, except for a few of the members. On the radio, you can sometimes hear an English speaking Operator, but often it is in Spanish, with quite a bit of slang mixed in, and spoken very quickly. My Spanish is not bad, and if I am lucky to speak with someone who knows a little English, then we do just fine. They know to use simple phrases and to say it slowly, because they have tried to learn another language. It is when you find someone who has never tried to speak another language, and communicates to you in words and complicated phrases that I get lost. I can't tell you how many times I have asked for them to say it more slowly, or use different words to describe what they are trying to say. Sometimes after asking a yes or no question to simplify matters, and I get all this gibberish returned, I just ask them in a hard tone, si or no. Just tell me yes or no, nothing more. Sure it ticks them off, but by then, I have figured out that they don't have the answer, and it is time to search for someone who does. I always end it with a smile and extension of thanks, and often make fun of myself by saying I am just a "Gringo", and "no speaka de Spanish."

Fortunately, all the officials and marinas staff in both Chile and Argentina has been outstanding. Very good humored, helpful, and patient with us visiting voyagers. This makes it all so much easier, and more enjoyable. Just keep smiling, and work with them to get it done. This is also a low tipping country so a little "Doctor Green" (cash), not a huge amount, just enough to let them know that you appreciate their efforts, helps.

We are working our way toward the mouth of the Rio Plata. We just tacked about three and a half miles from the beach. The wind off the beach has shifted more toward the northwest and we are running parallel to the coast getting closer and closer to Punto San Clemente, where we will alter course toward the northwest. The waves and swell is still right on our bow, but the winds has dropped to 16 knots and allowing us to make better speed. It is bouncy and wet on deck; however this should improve once we enter the more sheltered waters of the Rio Plata.

It looks like late Monday before we will arrive, and we still don't have a slip reserved after months of contacting the various marinas and clubs. Like so many things down here; it is all reaction rather than anticipation. Of course the needs change daily, so it might not be possible to get a slip until you are there in person. It is a little uncomfortable not knowing if you have a place to keep the boat or not. I need to find a safe place so I can return home for a while. I would be nice to know which ones are full so I can eliminate the options. Of course, that would require someone to respond to an email or phone call. We have written and called in both Spanish and English. Am I asking too much? Can you tell that I have been doing this for a long time, and need a break? All part of sailing .