We successfully sailed down the Pacific Coast of South America, rounded Cape Horn, and are now working our way up the Atlantic Coast of South America.
Week and weekend in San Fernando.
Miles Thompson/Photo by Miles Thompson
![]() 01 March 2009 | LONE STAR
Photo - LONE STAR moored next to the pristine German Frers designed ketch HORIZONTE. March 2009
I finished the work week with the boat all clean, and for the most part polished. The weather has been very warm and dry and perfect for cleaning up the interior after many months in the wet and cold regions down south. The week started with Detroit Batteries replacing all our main batteries with new, 6 volt 220 amp units. Gel cells are not available here in Argentina, so traditional, high quality lead acid type have made thier way back on board LONE STAR after an almost 20 year absence. They should be fine, and actually have more holding power available, but I will need to check the water levels, and carry distilled water on board. We received confirmation on an extension to our survey requirements and now plan to carry that out in late May. We are restricted to port during that time. Thanks to Bo and Sue, and Garrett at Severance Insurance, this means that Capitan Millas gets to go upwind again for ten hours to Houston, Texas, USA. Nothing goes upwind like a 767! Houston, here I come, arriving early, Friday, March 6th. Earlier in the week, Sergio Bonelli "Bondi", a representative, and monster of a man at 150 kilos, of the Quantum sail loft in nearby San Isidro, came by to discuss some sail issues. We removed the mainsail; a three man job, and fortunately we had the help of his nephew Martin, headsail, staysail and the storm trysail, and trucked them all to the nearby loft. Ale, the owner, met us there, and we discussed the modifications necessary to all sails including: re-positioning the reef points on the mainsail, batten, and batten pocket work, cover repairs on the headsail and replacing the leech line turning block at the head, replacing the staysail and hollowing out the leech of the storm trysail. I also met with a local canvas and cover maker, Dansk Canvas, and we discussed replacing the main awnings, sail covers, fender covers, and auxiliary fuel tank covers. All are in need of replacement, and the quality and price is very good. We will be using the linen color Sunbrella material this time, rather than the white of previous years. I know it will roll Big Joe over in his grave, but it looks better longer, and in my opinion, more traditional. We already started this conversion when we built the new dodger. Sorry old pal, you lost this one in addition to us removing "The Bonnet," our original hard chine dinghy off in Gibraltar, and shipping it home where is was once displayed in the Capitol Rotunda in Austin, and has won several awards in boat shows. Juan Silva, the local painter and varnisher, has quoted us a price to strip and recoat almost all exterior varnish. It really took a beating down south, and it has only been recoated over the last 11 years, not stripped. With all the lifting areas, and leaks in a few seams, it needs to be done. His work is excellent, and price fair. We will need to move from our current slip to the work area to have this month long project carried out. In the process of meeting various contractors here in the yacht club I met Martin Billoch, a local boat builder, yacht designer, and keen sailor. He has a very clean shop with several new construction and refitting projects underway. He will be a great contact for us in the months to come as we work through our repair list. He invited me to join a few members for a beer at 1200 sharp on Saturday. On Saturdays at noon, when no race scheduled, members meet at a small gazebo just astern of where LONE STAR is moored. Martin gave me a wave from the dock just after noon, and I headed towards the bar. Here I met several members who were kind enough to speak to me in Spanish, including the Commodore, Ricardo. Ricardo was wearing a cast on his left arm after a radial break while sailing. Ouch! The bar was full with men enjoying the pretty day, and I really enjoyed sharing stories of sailing. Several members have wooden classics and enjoyed seeing LONE STAR. Paco and Martin, armed with Pisco Sours cornered me and wanted to tell me about a 50 year old, German Frers designed 54 foot ketch. After a few moments they both said something quickly in Spanish that I did not catch and disappeared. I remained in place, talking to the Commodore and member Aldo, another classic 50 foot motorboat owner, and another gentleman whose name I have lost. After another cold beer, this beautiful ketch shows up and moors next to LONE STAR, and I see Paco and Martin on board. What a beautiful yacht that the Commodore and Paco have. HORIZONTE is lovely and detailed in every way. Sleek and fast, she just recently retired from a race to Punta Del Este, Uruguay, with a broken boom, snapped during a crazy jibe in a heavy blow. What a tribute to Mr. Frers and all the previous owners to keep her in such pristine condition. After another beer, we headed down to tour the yachts with a group of eight or so members, after sitting at the bar. It was a pleasure to have everyone on board for a short tour, and I also very much enjoyed seeing HORIZONTE. A very high compliment was made, one that I have heard before from Ale, and sailmaker. "This boat does not look like it just came from Cape Horn, you must have stopped somewhere and refitted before coming here." At 2 PM sharp it was all over. All the members started heading different directions, and that was that. I realized that this gathering (without women, of course) is very common on the weekends before the afternoon meal with families here in Argentina. Actually, the Commodore's wife did drop in for a few moments, and I had an opportunity to meet her. This gazebo was built just for this gathering. Later Saturday, I found myself heading to the city by bike, taxi, train, and foot to meet with a Spanish teacher I found on Craig's List. We met in a Barnes and Noble book store type place, and after a few moments of getting acquainted, a saxophone started playing. Now why would you have a saxophone player in a bookstore café is beyond me, but everyone seemed to be enjoying it but us. I could not hear Rosana, my teacher, nor could she hear me over the music. We decided to move to another location, a restaurant around the corner. Here we discussed my needs and what type of a program she can provide for me to really sharpen my Spanish. I decided to take some formal training rather than just pick at it along the way, and what better place to learn than while you have full immersion? She is starting me in Basic Spanish, but told me that I will fly through it because I already have a big vocabulary; I just need to learn to put it all together and enjoy the results. After a busy week I slept in this morning, and did nothing but sort through a few photos to prepare for my slide show presentation at the Fort Worth Boat Club next month, and catch up on some emails. At about 1300, I heard a loud noise that turned out to be my stomach. I was suddenly starving, and craving a hamburger. I had heard that Poppies, a local chain, had good burgers and decided to try to find them. I headed out on "Mi-Toyota,", the name I have given my bicycle, and tried to find the hamburger joint. After riding around for about an hour in the hot sun, it was nowhere to be found. I know I have seen it, but just could not find it. Most places, in fact almost all places, are closed on Sundays, limiting my choices to cure this monster in my mid-section. I found the McDonalds that is very close to the yacht club, and headed in. Not too bad, just like at home, and I figured I have held out long enough. After continuing my ride, searching for a cabina to call the US, I finally found Poppies, and made better note of the location. I made a few calls home before I noticed the sky was getting black, and I could smell rain. Oh, *&$#, I remembered I had all hatches open. I raced back on "Mi-Toyota'" dodging the limited cars on the road, and trying not to whip-out on the slick roads. For informational purposes, brakes on "Mi-Toyota," are crummy in dry conditions, and non-existent in wet. I finally made it back to the boat, soaking wet, but otherwise in pretty good shape. I found LONE STAR hopping up and down in her slip with two fenders out of place and touching the padded dock. It was blowing us on to the dock and the recently installed awnings were helping her plant herself hard against the dock. I managed to replace a fender during the blow, and attach a bow line across my neighbors boat, to the opposite finger pier. This took several throws with a monkeys fist, and I must have been quite the "Gringo Site" out in the rain trying to save the ship. No damage, just a busy half hour wrestling her off the dock. Of course, just as soon as I had the bow line on, it stopped and the squall was over. Tomorrow I plan to purchase and install two fenders and mount them to the dock, rather than hang them on the lifeline. Hopefully this will prevent this happening in the future, and I can stow the bow line that is blocking my neighbor's boat. Now I know what a strong squall from the north is all about. I later found out that ping-pong sized hail was reported nearby. Not much else to report, I continue to find this country filled with kind and considerate people who have really welcomed us. I am already looking forward to my return in a few months. |
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