We worked on the head problem some more on Saturday morning and then Jim ripped out the “new in the fall” pump and replaced it with his spare Jabsco pump. While we don’t think it has quite solved the problem, it is certainly working better and we are not in danger of filling the tank without being able to empty it.

We went back to Manati restaurant for their Saturday special (BBQ pork or Goulash) and had a wonderful time with Vibeke and Poul (Pi) from Denmark, and Alice and Bjorn (Lady Mys) from Sweden, along with chatting with a number of expat Americans and some who have vacation homes here.

We managed to spend the whole of Sunday without fretting about any boat issues – sort of. I spent a couple of hours stitching up edges of the canvas on our bimini – the cockpit cover - where the sun has rotted out the stitching, and we hoped for wind to top up the battery charge a bit more. Now that the battery charge has dropped, it takes much longer for them to get and hold a proper charge.

Poul investigated the two-gabled house halfway up the hill and on Sunday evening, the Danes, Swedes and Canucks dinghied to the dock behind the two-story grey building and climbed the endless stairs to the top where we were rewarded with frosty beers and a stunning view of the anchorage. Note to cruisers – it is well worth visiting this restaurant, but place your order immediately upon arriving. We made the mistake of enjoying our beers for a half hour or so before requesting menus. And then we waited another hour and a half for food. It was delicious and affordable when it came (mains in the 180 lempira range – under $10 – for Bonacca shrimp in tomato sauce or cracked conch or sausage or crispy fried fish) but it was far too long to wait considering that there was just one other group eating food.

But the company was superb! The six of us range in age from early 60’s to early 70’s and both the Pi and Lady Mys crews have been sailing on fantastic adventures. Poul and Vibeke sailed around the Horn and spent many months exploring South America. Both boats have visited the Galapagos on the Pacific side, traversed the Panama Canal, spent time in the San Blas, and think nothing of visiting far and wide despite returning home for the summers. We sometimes think that perhaps this is as far as we need to go, but listening to these folks whets our appetites!

We dinghied through the canal that joins this side of the cay with Pine Bight on the north side. It’s only about a 10 minute run and opens up on a lovely big bay that would be a nice anchorage in settled weather. Although our guide book said there is a marker to commemorate Christopher Columbus’s visit in 1502, we didn’t find it. We did find a sturdy dock and pretty gazebo where we tied up the dinghy, enjoyed a swim and a picnic lunch. I strolled the beach but found no shells or sea glass. All the beaches here have been barren of shells – a bit of a disappointment.

We then stopped at the dock below a lighthouse-looking structure. As we walked around the outside, trying not to intrude but still have a look, Carlos called down a greeting and welcomed us inside. He is doing construction for a fellow who wants to open it as a restaurant – and it will be a lovely spot when that happens. The signs request that people respect this private property but Carlos said if he is there he is happy to have company. We climbed to the top where we had a fabulous view over the bay and could easily pick out the coral heads scattered around.

There are 3 Canadian boats in El Bight now – Monashee is from Vancouver with Scot, Sara, Alex, Chris and Katie on board. They are on a one year journey through the Northwest Caribbean and it has been great fun to talk with them. And then on Monday, Nina Belle, a big ketch from Victoria, arrived with 6 young men and women aboard, bound for the canal and then across the Pacific. Madcap joined Monashee in stopping by to say hello to fellow Canadians and it wasn’t long before Julie said, “My mother grew up in Amherst” – where Jim and I also grew up. It turns out that her grandfather is Robert Purdy – still in Amherst, NS and a friend of both our sets of parents. Jim’s dad would have been her mother’s guidance counselor at ARHS. Another crewmember is a grandson of Lawren Harris (and great grandson of the Group of Seven painter) who was teaching art at Mount A when Jim was there.

How amazing to find such connections. It happens often enough that I suppose it shouldn’t really astonish me, but it always does! So we have not only a beautiful and interesting island to enjoy, but also fascinating people and continual surprises.