05/10/2009/1:11 pm, Shelburne, NS
It was warmer Saturday morning as we motored out the western channel to head south again. Speaking of heading south - from here we are going almost due West in order to get to the southern tip of Nova Scotia and across the Gulf of Maine.
We made much better time - still motoring but not fighting wind and current as much. The boat that had been anchored with us in Port Mouton turned into Shelburne but we kept going as we debated our course of action and the weather reports. The window for crossing the Gulf was nonexistent so we abandoned our previous idea of continuing on across to beat the coming winds. Instead, we opted to tuck in behind Cape Negro Island in the hope that we would be well enough protected for the night, and would be in position to continue if Sunday looked better. The difficulty is that West winds are forecast for the next several days and those are not good winds for us.
Once the decision was made to stop, we turned off the engine and leisurely sailed along at 3.5 knots. It felt good. We were adjusting our plans to suit the forecast, and we were travelling as a sailboat is meant to travel. Just before 4 p.m. we dropped the anchor, switched on the radio to catch the updated marine weather and decided we needed to change our plans once again. We were too exposed for 25 knot SE winds, and if the weather continued as forecast, there would be no chance of getting out the next day. So... the anchor came up again and we turned back to Shelburne. (This is the first time we have ever actually turned back anywhere, I think.) It took just over an hour to retrace our path to the entrance to Shelburne Harbour and more than that to reach the mooring field at Shelburne yacht Club. It didn't feel so good any more, but by 7 p.m. we were secured for the second time.
I had put a pork tenderloin with vegetables and maple-mustard marinade into the oven as we travelled so we were able to eat as soon as we got settled. I brought a couple of Nova Scotian Crystal wine glasses with us this trip so we enjoyed box wine in elegant goblets in a lovely harbour - even if it was not where we really wanted to be.
I woke up at 2:49 on Sunday morning to an absolutely still boat - no rain or wind - and thought, "Drat! The forecast was wrong!" but by 4am, the wind was moaning in the rigging and we had a gentle rock happening. We were very happy to have made the move because the rest of the day was miserable. It rained off and on, the wind gusted up to 20 knots and we could feel Madcap tugging on her mooring lines. We read, did boat chores, stowed all the things that we had just tossed onboard and whiled away the day.
On Monday morning, we were still making power as the wind generator twirled around. (It' s a KISS and the blades make hardly any noise, but there is a vibration in the pole that we have to get rid of - rattle rattle moan moan!) The sun came out and it is a perfectly lovely day. We dinghied ashore and met folks on Nauti Rowdy, and Petite Ourse who are also waiting to cross. That is the lovely thing about passages - there are always other folks doing the same thing. A conversation with Rick at the Yacht Club yielded lots of information on southern destinations, as well as shared stories of encountering US Border Protection rules and regulations.
The trouble is that the forecast is still nasty: W up to 25 today and tomorrow, then SE which is OK but up to 35 knots which isn't. At the moment, Friday looks like NW20 diminishing to light. That's great if it doesn't change again while we are out there in the Gulf.
Rather than wait here, we called Mary Beth this morning to see if she'd come pick up her parents and take us home again for a few days. Sweet girl that she is, she agreed even though I'm sure she thought she was rid of us for a few months. It's less than 3 hours to get back to our cosy house in Halifax so we'll take ourselves and our dirty laundry back there until the weather looks better. Good thing we are flexible!
The picture above is of our mooring field at South Shore Marine at dawn on departure day. What is that saying about red sky in the morning??
02/10/2009/1:02 pm, Carter's Beach, Port Mouton, Nova Scotia
We are off again!!
After a summer filled with land based activities, we finally dropped our mooring lines at South Shore Marine and turned our bow south. Our intention had been to leave on Thursday, but in true retirement fashion, when we were madly racing around to be ready, we looked at each other, said, "Why are we doing this?" took some deep breaths and postponed our departure for a day. Mary Beth delivered us to the dock on Thursday evening; we got a good sleep and left on Friday morning with the intention of getting as far as we could - maybe Shelburne, maybe further. The skies were grey and the air crisp - 8 degrees C when we woke up. Our departure was very low key - unlike when we left Trident Yacht Club in Ontario two years ago.
First lesson from Mother Nature: The seas are not always with us. We bucked along against the wind and current for 10 hours or so and, once again, said, "Why are we doing this?" We were watching the fishing fleet leave Port Mouton and were nearing the entrance to the lovely little anchorage at Carter's Beach so we headed in there.
We have our cockpit enclosure up, and are still well wrapped up in layers of clothes complete with hats and gloves. These guys are out there in open boats, wearing shirts and coveralls. Makes me think of them and send a little "Thank you" when I eat my fish!
We lit our propane fireplace to warm up the cabin, dined on chili and fresh rolls followed by a couple of bites of chocolate, and then crawled under our down comforter for a quiet night.
01/10/2009/2:28 pm, South Shore Marine, Chester, NS
After spending a year back in Canada following our glorious sailing adventure #1, we are ready to go again. This time, we are making a later start due to work demands, but we'll make it somewhere warmer for the winter for sure! The plan is to head once again for the Bahamas. We'll revisit some familiar places, explore some new ones and then if things go according to plan, we'll push on a little further. We never did get to Cuba last trip so we might try it this time. We'd love to go to Belize and Guatamala. As we discovered two years ago, we don't do well at "pushing on". We are dawdlers. So whether we get to all these places remains to be seen. What we do know is that we'll do our best to travel safely, not miss any chances for friendly encounters with people and nature, and learn a few more things about sailboats and the cruising life.
Once again, we love it when folks "travel" with us. We can be reached through the comment section on the blog, or by e-mail. Jim: firstname.lastname@example.org and Beth: email@example.com. Feel free to drop a line. We will have sporadic internet connection so we may not respond very quickly, but whenever we get a link, we'll be on there to see if we have mail!