Because Isla Mujeres is a mere 8 kilometers long and just under a kilometer wide, it is a great place for convenient exploration. We can easily walk to centro and all around punta norte if we turn left (a la izquierda) from the front gate, and halfway down the lagoon if we turn right (a la derecha).

We’ve done a lot of walking in both directions because it is just so easy, but one evening we took a cab with Angelina to visit Tom and Michelle’s new property down on the southwest end of the island. Tom’s daughter Julie and her husband Eric were in on the fun too. We all walked out on their very long dock just as the sun went down to raise glasses in a toast to their good fortune and exciting plans. No green flash, but it was spectacular anyway! Add in the munching of pistachio nuts and sipping of wine with these new friends as we lounged in hammock and easy chair under the large thatched palapa, and the evening was pretty much perfect.

Little red cabs fly along the roads all the time, giving a quick honk to question whether or not we want a pick up. It’s easy to hail one, agree upon the fare and hop in. Scooters and golf carts make up pretty much the rest of the traffic, and one must be VERY alert to the significant speed bumps. There seem to be no particular lanes – everyone just passes whenever they want, but all slow right down for the bumps which are sometimes pavement and sometimes big thick ropes laid across the road. One thing I’ve noticed is that all adults wear helmets on the motorbikes but few of the little children tucked between them do. Most of the bikes will have a couple of adults and at least one child – they are the family cars. It makes no sense to me that the smallest heads are unprotected – but that seems to be the general rule.

Jim and I dinghied out to the reef just off the anchorage and did a little snorkeling. The current was really strong so there was no lazy circling of the rocks and coral but we did see some good sized colourful fish. We figured out that the best method was to kick as hard as we could to move upstream and then whoosh back to the dinghy. The park rangers came by to tell us we needed life jackets on – first time we have seen this – apparently because they are serious about keeping people off the coral. Hordes of people are taken there on heavily overloaded catamarans again and again during the day so it really is an issue.

We explored the lagoon in Yonder’s dinghy one day, gazing at expensive power boats, sport fishing boats and sailboats at the various marinas, and Jim and I went down along the western side of the island in our own li’l Loonie, oohing and aahing at the beautiful hotels and waterfront properties along this coast. We grumbled as we passed by the dolphin play area where hordes more tourists are taken to swim with the dophins because after watching these lovely creatures play alongside our boat in the open water on so many occasions, it seems horrid to see them penned up and acting as living water toys for moneyed turistos. (I think my bias might be showing so I’ll say no more!)

On another day, we rented a golf cart and set off to see the whole island by land. Golf carts cost 500 pesos for the day (9-5) or 600 for a 24 hour period and there are several rental places in town. We headed south, stopping at the Turtle farm - a decidedly low key operation where efforts are being made to educate people about turtles, protecting their breeding grounds and attempting to increase their population again. This was the first time we have seen white turtles and their shells (and those of the green turtles too) were exquisite in design and colour.

We stopped for lunch at Rolandi’s – a magnificent hotel and dining room perched right on the edge of the water. The service was friendly and sophisticated, our calamari and pizza were delicious and the price was not bad for lunch at an upscale dining room ($35 US for two meals and 2 drinks –it won’t be on our daily list when we can eat equally delicious food at spots with plastic chairs and sandy floors for $15 US, but still it is nice to splurge now and then.)

Next stop on the great golf cart tour was Punta Sud – the southern most point of the island. An entertainment park has been established near there with zip lines over the water, but we avoided that and paid our 30 pesos to walk around the odd little park at the bottom. Metal sculptures that added little to the visual interest are scattered throughout the area, but we enjoyed our stroll along the cliffs on both sides, perching high atop a rocky outcrop to look across to the west and anxiously watching some snorkelers over a reef to the east. We had taken our snorkel gear with us, but the wind was from the south and had whipped up the waves over reefs on both sides so we kept all but our feet dry on this day.

Many properties are for sale at the south end – particularly on the eastern side. The views from the cliffs are wonderful, but the west is certainly favoured for beaches and sunsets.

Soon enough, our golf cart hours came to an end and we dropped it off just in time to spend an evening in the busy downtown area where Calle Hidalgo and many other streets are lined with dozens of shops and restaurants for the delight of the island’s main industry – tourists. No shopping for me so far – just enjoying the colours and textures, smiling at the vendors and practicing my most used Spanish phrase in this area. “Hoy no, gracias.” (Not today, thank you.)
PS - I am having trouble getting pics up but I will keep trying