Caye Caulker by Water Taxi
22 March 2012 | Cucumber Beach Marina (near Belize City)
Beth / 80's and 90's (30C and upwards))
After a day spent writing blogs (me) and working on taxes (Jim) we both needed a change so we left Madcap at the marina and made a day excursion to Caye Caulker. This cay lies between San Pedro and Belize City and for us, with our 6 ft draft, it is easier to get there on someone else’s boat.
Our Belize Express Water taxi flew across the water – leaving us very much windblown but dry and landed us 50 minutes later on the sunny beach of one of the best known cays in Belize. We spent a pleasant day there – wandering along streets and beaches. We visited the Lazy Lizard that bills itself as a sunny place for shady people. I loved the logo but since it was only 10:30 in the morning, there weren’t many shady people lurking around! Feeling a little parched, we downed long tall juices along the beach and then made our way toward Back street where we lunched at Glenda’s. It was mentioned in the Lonely Planet Guide and somehow I had a memory of seeing it mentioned somewhere else – Freya’s book? Other cruisers? It was very homey, the food was tasty and inexpensive. Others there were school children and folks who had the look of cruisers – that slightly shabby, relaxed, tanned look. They were all intent on their own conversations and meals so I didn’t interrupt to find out for sure! Our whole meal (chicken burrito, chicken tostadas and 2 orange juices) cost the same as one burrito at a restaurant on the main street.
As we strolled the beach, we met up with “the cake man”. He stopped us near the water taxi dock and said, “You really need to see my cakes!” You know I never can resist that so we checked out his cart and he did indeed have cakes – carrot and white and lemon – sweet potato pudding, and the most wonderful little lemon meringue tarts. We could take or leave the sweet potato pudding, but I wish I had bought 2 tarts instead of sharing half of mine with Jim!
We walked south along the beach path (along with the fellow in the pic) and back through town before enjoying a Belekin at Popeye’s catching the 3pm boat back to Belize City. It was there that we had the most interesting experience of the day. We walked to the market – finding different stalls this time with friendly people – and filled bags with juicy cantaloupe and papaya, bananas, peppers, cucumbers before going next door for the bus.
We waited among the hordes of school children and other adults. The bus pulled in – we joined the throngs of bodies pressing to the doors. We ended up standing and thought we were OK but the driver ordered all standees off. We waited for the next bus and decided we would not be the last people on. What a press – we both ended up body checking others, just as we were body checked! We got on; several of the students were sitting in the middle of their seats –and refusing to move. I sat down beside a man who obligingly moved over. Jim made as if to sit by a teenage boy who refused to move over. He waited – no one came – the seats were filling so he started to sit down and ended up playing the “Daddy card.” The boy shook his head - no. Jim shook his head - NO. The boy moved. Jim sat! My seatmate explained that at the station no standees are allowed, but once the bus is on the road, they can cram on as many people as they like. A lady ahead of me held off all comers as she saved a space for a friend and two children – and she was one determined woman – there was no messing with her. Interesting experience – for only $1 B!!
We chatted on Wednesday with Yvonne, Tom and their guest Chuck (Scrammin’), and enjoyed a lovely conversation filled dinner at the restaurant with Kathy and Brian (Tundra). They gave us pages of information on the Rio Dulce and their enthusiasm and experience have gone a long way to increasing our confidence in the idea of leaving Madcap in Guatemala.
Thursday morning brought decreased winds and we have decided to move south toward Placencia. See you down the way.