08/10/2007/9:29 am, Baltimore, Maryland
We had a long trip from a lovely little anchorage in the Sassafras River to Baltimore. It has been so warm that we even went for a swim on Saturday in the semi-salty water. How delightful to swim in October!
We wanted to visit the Boat Show but would have had to rush too much to get there by boat, so we opted to come to Baltimore and rent a car. That plan worked well, although the trip up river to get here was not our favourite. This whole area is really shallow and the channel was like a highway of fast boats. Every wake rocked us all over the place and there was no wind so it didn't make for an exactly pleasureable journey.
However - we anchored in a lovely little corner of Canton - a neighbourhood on the edge of Baltimore. It's busy but pretty, with condos and a boardwalk lining the river banks. The folks at Anchorage Marina were kind enough to let us leave our dinghy in their secure area while we went off to Annapolis, and if we were to need dock space, we would come here.
The Boat Show was interesting as always - we met some friendly merchants we had dealt with last year and were able to update them on our adventure - also making plans to connect with them again. We purchased some new charts and guidebooks to take us through the rest of the US east coast, a wifi antenna that we hope will help solve our connection problems, a gadget for keeping our diesel clean and polished, and a system for ensuring a watertight seal around our mast. We'll see how they all work over the next few weeks.
We leave Baltimore today and will find a quiet anchorage where I'll pop the (small) turkey into my oven, roast some turnip,potato and carrots, chop up some cabbage for coleslaw and enjoy our very own Thanksgiving dinner.
We send our greetings to all our friends and family who are celebrating Canadian Thanksgiving, and to American friends who are celebrating Columbus Day.
05/10/2007/2:22 pm, Sassafras River
After taking one last stroll around while the laundry dried, we reluctantly packed ourselves up and headed down the Hudson River on the noontide. We circled around near the Statue of Liberty so that Strathspey and we could take pictures of each other. That was a bit of a trick because of all the traffic - pleasure boaters doing the same thing we were while commercial vessels tried not to hit anyone as they went about their business. We were a bit flummoxed by the fellows on the sailboat next to us who both went forward to take pictures, leaving no one at the helm - and they weren't operating a remote control either!
Our stop on Sunday night was Sandy Hook - an aptly named hook of land out past the Verrazano Bridge, where we gratefully dropped our anchor and made an early night of it. Next day we were off at 3 am to make the run down the Jersey coast to Atlantic City. The coast is supposed to be full of lovely beaches - but from our vantage point about 3 miles off shore, it just looked flat! The wind was fine though and we sailed most of the way, turning our engine off about 0930 and not on again till about 1600. The guidebook said it could be an exhilarating run into Atlantic City - and the guidebook was right! The tide and wind combined to make it a rollicking ride - not dangerous, but certainly exhilarating. We anchored just outside the channel in the glow of all the casino lights, and after a quick dinner we turned in early again. We went right back out again the next morning as soon as it was light enough to see the entrance clearly - about 0700 - and set our course for Cape May. This was the last stretch of the Atlantic Ocean that we'll travel in for a while and we rolled along comfortably on the swells.
The entry into Cape May was much more peaceful, and we found a number of boats anchored in front of the Coast Guard station. We joined them, chatted with the folks on Camelot II who had come straight down from New York City, and dinghied ashore to find the Lobster House - a well-known seafood restaurant and market. With bags of shrimp, swordfish, and a tub of crab bisque, we made our way back to Madcap at dusk, fired up the BBQ and dined sumptuously on our fresh and tasty purchases. Cape May is supposed to be quite lovely with an area of restored Victorian houses, but it will have to wait for our trip back up next year because we needed to push on in order to be somewhere near Annapolis for a visit to the boat show on the weekend.
We opted to travel around Cape May Point rather than go through the Cape May Canal because although we could probably clear the 55-foot bridge, we were happier not to risk that couple of feet we would have to spare. The trip around took a couple of hours, and our trip up the Delaware Bay was speedy. Mary and I had checked the tides as we always do and the flood tide moved us along at close to 7 knots most of the way. Reports say that it can sometimes be choppy and uncomfortable, but it was a smooth run for us. Rather than go through the C&D Canal (Chesapeake and Delaware) late in the afternoon when we weren't sure of anchoring possibilities, we opted to stop off behind Reedy Island. It was a secure little spot for a stay when the wind wasn't bad. I hoped to see a variety of migratory birds among the reeds but no such luck.
We woke up on Thursday morning to a thick fog so we delayed our departure till about 0900 - still time to catch the end of the ebb current running westward through the canal. Once again, the weather was with us as the fog burned off, leaving us with smooth motoring under blazing hot sunshine. No excitement in the canal and no wind made it a fairly tedious day so we were happy to make the turn into the pretty Sassafras River. We made our winding way up Georgetown where we anchored behind the mooring field for the night. The banks along the river are just tinged with autumn colour and among the reeds and bushes we saw several bald eagles - their white heads gleaming in the sunlight.
We went ashore with Bair and Mary to the Granary where we devoured wonderful cashew-crusted oysters and crab and corn fritters. The sky was full of stars and frogs were singing loudly in the marsh near us as we arrived back at Madcap. This was a lovely introduction to the Chesapeake Bay where we'll spend the next two weeks exploring.
30/09/2007/9:29 am, New York City
How can I even begin to put into words how thrilling it is to have sailed to New York City?
After an early morning call to the West 79th Street Boat Basin to request a mooring ball, we took a leisurely cruise from Manhasset Bay past Throg's Neck and into the East River. Because we had planned to arrive at slack tide at Hell Gate, we didn't have the wild ride through there that some sailors have experienced. We were just as happy to take it slower the first time through. I read in the Maptech cruising guide that although the name of this S-bend in the river evokes such anxiety, a Dutch Explorer in whose language "hellegat" means "beautiful pass" gave it that name. He must have had a good experience!
There was not a lot of traffic passing through so we never had to contend with large ships coming round corners and taking up all the space in the channel. We didn't have overly fast currents or large wakes to deal with. We did have time to gaze at the many bridges and buildings and familiar sounding places as we went by. Once again, we had air traffic overhead - coming and going to LaGuardia Airport. We passed by Rikers Island, a major prison centre, and even saw a huge boxy looking vessel tied up to the wharf across from it. It had barbed wire running all along the top and we heard later that it was overflow housing for inmates. We passed Brothers Islands - are there Brothers Islands in every river? (We used to pass the cormorant-populated Brothers Islands in the St. Lawrence on a regular basis. And speaking of names, we've found several sets of Hens and Chickens too!)
I found it reassuring to listen to the radio conversations on Channel 13. This is the commercial channel and our book had recommended that we listen to it as we transited New York harbour. There was constant conversation from bridge to bridge on the big ships, and they were surprisingly relaxed. "Which way are ya headed cap'n? OK, I'll let you go across ahead of me." And lots of "Security, security, security, this is motor vessel...leaving pier...all vessels please stay clear." (Another aside here - there are three levels of distress or safety calls on VHF radio. Mayday is first priority and is used only for imminent danger of loss of life or vessel; PanPan is second priority - concerning safety of ship, other vessel, or person in sight or on board; Security - pronounced securitay - is a third priority safety message concerning navigation or weather, and this is the one we hear most frequently.)
The usual course for sailboats is down the west channel past Roosevelt Island, but it was closed for security reasons. The United Nations building is right along the bank on this side. We had heard Coast Guard announcements on Channel 16 and also heard many boats calling for confirmation of the closure and confirmation that the bridge over the east channel would open on call. We hung a left as we came through Hell Gate, noticing the police boats that patrolled the west channel and prevented boats from entering. It was in this east channel that we found the greatest current. We had to circle for a few minutes until the bridge opened to let four boats go through, and we were glad there wasn't any more traffic there since the current was really grabbing at the boat as it turned.
Just as we reached the end of the channel, we could see the UN building and the Chrysler Building with its ornate tower among the dozens of other skyscrapers lining the skyline. We were truly gawking this way and that as we traveled. We rounded the corner of Manhattan Island, passing by Battery Point and making our way upward into the Hudson River. The current was against us here, but it was not difficult - just slower to travel north to West 79th Street. A big orange Staten Island ferry eased out from its terminal and picked up speed as it headed across the harbour. Several different sightseeing boats crisscrossed back and forth, and barges and boats loaded with all sorts of things lumbered along. We needed both sets of eyes watching forward, sideways and backward as we moved along, and we made it safely up to the marina.
The moorings maintained by the city are just along the edge of the Hudson River, and stretch a good distance up from the little office and the docks. They are exposed to the wake of passing boats and the tidal current, but hey - they are secure moorings in NYC for $30.00 per night! Who cares about a little rocking? We choose a ball, hooked the lines over cleats on the foredeck and sat back to marvel at "Madcap" being moored in New York City! Over the next few days several more Canadian boats arrived. Many of them travel down the Hudson from Lake Ontario, and we are seeing far more red maple leaves flying from sterns.
The sitting back didn't last long because we were so eager to go exploring. I had never been to New York before so my list was long. Jim is always an avid explorer and he was ready to revisit some familiar places and discover some new ones too. I won't go into great detail about all the places we went but let me try to give you an idea of our pace by making a little list of what we saw and did in the 72 hours we were here: Times Square by day and by night, two Broadway plays, dinner and performance in a jazz club, bicycling and walking in Central Park, walking through Washington Square - where we also sat down to enjoy an outdoor jazz performance, Union Square, Greenwich Village, Soho, Little Italy and Chinatown, the financial district - including a visit to the New York Stock Exchange, Ground Zero and Trinity Church, a trip to the top of the Empire State Building, strolls through "our" upper west side neighbourhood, window gazing along Madison and 5th Avenues, trips on the subway (the Metro), a street fair near Lafayette St. We walked miles and miles and miles. We ate deli, Mexican, Greek, Italian and Columbian food. We watched people and dogs and sat on benches to rest our weary bones. And we also had time to chat with other boaters and do laundry and visit Zabars for essential food items like olives and cheese and bread. I think we slept a few hours too!
We headed immediately for Times Square where lights flashed and billboards beckoned and thousands of people crowded along the sidewalks - probably the most abrupt change we could have made from the simple boat life we had been experiencing. Once we had tickets to the Broadway play Curtains in our hands, we stopped into a coffee shop to gather our wits together. I was totally gobsmacked (a marvelous word I learned from an English friend) by the intensity and size of the place. There were thousands of people speaking hundreds of languages bustling up and down sidewalks and across streets. (Pedestrians don't wait for walk lights here - but must always be prepared for speeding cars or thread their way through horn-blaring gridlocked cars that will move forward at any minute - I figure we each got a couple of pushes out of danger from our guardian angels!)
It was a delight to sit in a beautiful old Broadway theatre to see Curtains - starring David Hyde Pierce (Miles on TV's Frasier). It was a fabulous performance - lively music, good plot, beautiful sets, impeccable comedic timing.
The time we spent in Washington and Union Squares was a delight too. Washington Square is part of the Greenwich Village and New York University scene, and it felt like a community front porch - where everyone gathered and with space for lots of different activities. There was a boisterous group of boys playing pick-up soccer, men playing chess, women pushing strollers, people reading and chatting and sunning themselves on the dozens of benches lining the paths. A fountain sprayed refreshing water, and two fenced doggie parks invited visitors with signs saying "No people without dogs and no dogs without people". Inside were benches where owners socialized while their off-leash dogs did the same. We relaxed with others in a shady corner where a jazz quartet was playing and were surprised to see the trumpeter do a couple of numbers with two trumpets at once!
In Union Square, a rapper was performing to the enthusiasm of a great crowd of supporters. The mood there was catchy too, and we remarked to each other that there seemed to be a place for everyone in this city. The multicoloured hair and clothing and bodies, the piercings and tattoos and dreadlocks, the baggy pants and chains mingled in with the appearances we are more used to and it seemed like we were all part of one big crowd.
Over on Madison Avenue, we followed the exquisitely coiffed and garbed folks along the sidewalks and enjoyed some window-shopping. On Mulberry Street we marveled at the thousands of people sitting at pasta-laden tables at three o'clock in the afternoon, while green and white and orangy-red street decorations hung overhead. On Broadway (or was it 4th?) near Lafayette, we roamed through the street full of tables and booths displaying all sorts of goods and foods for sale. We enjoyed the calling out of the hawkers and the hustle and bustle of families, and the good-natured bantering and teasing we overheard.
In Central Park, we rented bikes from one of the many persuasive entrepreneurs and had an energetic ride around the perimeter. This is a huge park and will need another visit to see more of the interior. A friendly woman gave me a map and a passerby stopped to help me fix the brake on my bike, which leads me to another observation. My image of New Yorkers had always been one of rather rude, no-time-for-you people, and I was so wrong! With only rare exceptions, we were impressed by the good humour of the people we met. As I was mailing off a Hershey's of Times Square chocolate bar to a chocoholic friend (hope it didn't melt, Donna!) the woman at the post office counter informed me that I should have brought two - one to share with her! At 10 o'clock at night at the Empire State Building, the guides still laughed and joked as they moved the last of thousands of people through the gates and elevators. Servers in restaurants took time to chat with us, and the orange-vested information folks were always helpful.
Two final items of interest were the general cleanliness of the city, and the number of young families and women with babies. In every neighbourhood, there were signs of population growth. In every neighbourhood, there were signs of pride and care. In every neighbourhood we felt safe and welcome. While we saw only a fraction of the big city of New York, we were impressed. We'll be back!