The exit from Turkey was fast, rough and with a lots of wind. We arrived after a down wind sail to Limnos and motored north into a large bay to throw the anchor for a well deserved rest. We then visited the land site for the Gillopolie invasion. This bay was where the ships gathered prior to the invasion of Turkey. It was also the place that the Generals stayed away from the fighting and where the injured soldiers and sailors were brought to be hospitalised. Many died and were buried on the Island. We visited the Commonwealth War Cematary at the end of Anzac Road. A rather desolate place. We were the only vessel in Ormos Moudhrou, a change from the day before the invasion when there were a hugh flotilla of battleships and troop carriers.
We sailed into Ormos Kondia for a night then on to the main harbour at Mirina which is the port of Entry for Greece. We had switched our colours and were now flying the British ensign. The greeks find non-EU boat a trouble. The clearance in while long was not difficult or expensive. My passport is still cleaan while Denny's has and entry right below her last entry - work that out. As usual we anchored in the bay just opposite the town wharf. Just before sunset a fisherman came out in his boat to warn us of an impending storm and to advise us to tie up to the dock. Taking local advice we droped 70m of chain and went stern to the wharf and secured ourselves to some large rings in the wall. An Ozie boat from Qld had done the same. Well at 11:00 the wind came in from the NW with gust over 30knots. The boats were bouncing around all over the place. We had a smaller boat on the starboard side but nothing on the port so I was able to rig a line from the bow to the dock to hold us against the wind. Having secured Malua I retired to sleep the sleep of the landlubber. By morning the wind had gone and no one was the wiser. We had to move off the dock to make way for the ferry but the next day We found a spot along side the Ozie boat.
The town is a typical Greek island village with a few extra shops for the local Greek tourists. Few foriegners visit this place. It is famous for its wine which we sampled along with the excelent pork. The following day we purchased big in the area of wine - a total of 60 litres in the form of a number of ten litre boxes. Stowable in the bilge for maturing. We stocked up with provisions and ste sail at dawn for the Halkidiki. Again no wind so we motored the 63nm. The next page will give you the detail. Here are a few photos of Limnos The next few pages documents the trip through Greece.
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What an exit out of the Dardanelles. The wind came up out of the North East and as we put our nose round the southern point of the Galipolli Peninsula we were hit by very strong wind and a very confused sea. The strong current did not help. Malua was tossed around in no uncertain terms. It took us a few minutes to put two reefs in the main and to furl the genoa. Of course things did not go to plan and we had to struggle to get it right. After a few minutes we had the wind aft of the beam and we were reaching at 9 knots touching 11 at times towards Greece. Limnos was our port of entry.
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After passing north up the Dardanelles we sailed across the Sea of Marmara and finally arrived in Istanbul.
The Challenge is to find a safe inexpensive place to leave Malua.
Istanbul
We found an ideal spot for our style of cruising. It is in a small swimming bay just at the mouth of the Yesilkoy harbour. The holding is good although there is not much room. I put two anchors down to restrict our swing and as a precaution. We take the RIB into the harbour and leave it along side a yacht. The train station is only ten minutes walk up the road through a rather upmarket suburb. We purchased an Akbil travel taken which is like an Oyster card so we could ride all the public transport without paying each time. The trains are on their last legs, not full but do they rattle. The metro on the other hand is air conditioned, new and crowded.
We criss crossed the city to get to the different sights and had a great time.
Images of the anchorage
The different mosques are rather grand but dull compared to the catholic churches but used. The Mullah's singing at the prayers is just wonderful. Looking someway like a Turk I can get into the prayer sessions so I have an opprtunity to hear them in full unamplified voice along with all the movement of the believers. An experience to rememeber.
The Topkapi Palace is also grand but not very well presented. The Topkapi dagger with its three emerald stones in the handle is just in a hole in the wall while the Spoonmaker's diamond is very poorly lit. The best pieces are without a doubt the Chinese porcelain especially the green, white and of cource the blue ming bowls. The best collection in the world they say.
The archaelogical Museum leaves a lot to be desired but most of the best pieces are in someone else's possestion.
We visited a number of carpet shops who gave us a different spiel every time as to why they are better than the rest. One was married to a very Australian lady and their daughter came right out of Sydney until she started to try to sell you something and you realised that trading is in your blood. They were a bit put out when I told them my son worked for a dealer in Canberra. Well we all agreed that the carpets were not of the quality they use to be and it is getting more difficult to get good value. The tea and orange juise is always good and we didn't purchase anything!
The trip up the Bosphorus is a must especially on the TDI (IDO) ferry 17.50YTL pier three at 10:35. One can get off at Anadolu Kavagi to walk up the hill to the Byzantine fortress and to look into the Black Sea. The Mussels and Calamari at the fish restaurants are very good. Having done the tour I dont think it now requires us to sail up the crowded, choppy and dirty waterway just to be in the Black Sea.
Images of Istanbul
Images of Bosphorus
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