02/20/2012, In the South Atlantic
Today finds Shearwater and me about 800 miles from Capetown and about 900 miles to go to the rather famous island of St Helena - Napoleon's island. The morning broke with what looked to be a day of rain, darkish clouds in all directions. Thankfully however, the sun prevailed, the clouds dissipated and we have been instead treated to a perfect, bright, hot day. Around noon we seemed to be heading into a becalmed state with the autopilots almost losing control of the boat due to the 1/2 knot speed. But, that too has passed and now we are screaming along at 4 knots!
How I always welcome the sun for it brings many good tidings to the boat. First of all it activates my 8 solar panels, recharging the batteries that are usually somewhat drained after a night of hard work keeping, amongst other things, the autopilot and fridge going - both very hungry entities. Next, the boat, living on a bed of water with consequent high humidity, feeds most generously the creatures of mold - the sun heads them off. And finally and most importantly, it keeps my spirits in a more optimistic state for there are many aspects to this endeavor that can lead to a dispirited state... grey, rain and cold are just some of them...the sun battles them mightily.
As we glide along the surface of this South Atlantic Ocean, it always boggles my mind imagining the depths of these great oceans. At the present moment when I look at the chart, there is more than 15000 feet beneath my keels. And that brings me to underwater mountains, for barely a few miles to my left, a sea mountain peak soars upward and nearly breaks the surface stopping short at only 60 feet!...this particular sea mount is called the Valdiva Bank - to be avoided in stormy weather.
So, a few facts and figures for the day as we proceed on course at 333 magnetic, 975 days after leaving Florida.
Oh, and one other fact and figure... Im 60 today!!
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Comments [7]
02/17/2012, In the South Atlantic
Today is the fifth day after rounding the Cape of Good Hope and bidding farewell to S Africa. In the time prior to departure, as I walked the docks of Simon's Town, that town at the end of Africa, I would hear words and phrases such as "baby slope" "dessert" and "lazy and lovely", all describing what lay ahead in the South Atlantic.
But, hesitant to believe my ears and displaying an understandable gun-shy demeanor, my mind's eye would relive the rather arduous voyage across the Indian Ocean, the oh so quixotic coast of South Africa and, of course...what about that windy assault camouflaged in benign forecasts as I entered the aptly named False Bay, a bay that for my intent and purposes didn't exist!
But, here I am in the South Atlantic ....and it's indeed lovely. A peaceful wind blows from the back. The boat gently rocks as long swells roll underneath hardly even disturbing the glasses set on the table. The endless blue of the ocean looks up at puffy islands of clouds and albatrosses swoop.
In fact, I'm reminded of something... of the early days of April in 2010, as I set out across the Pacific. I am transported back there today - the same idyllic meeting of wind and water. But I was different then. I was young, the voyage was young. I was impatient. I had just started. I was blissfully ignorant of what lay ahead. And after all, I had places to go and things to see. 'Couldn't we go a bit faster!' Now, as I close the circle, I amble along at 4 knots. We are old - but finally, I know how to savour the "lazy and lovely".
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02/13/2012, Off the southern tip of Africa
As I gaze directly ahead I see that famous outcrop of land at the southern tip of Africa, The Cape of Good Hope. In about an hour, I expect to round this fabled and too often notorious peninsula and...well...as a sailor one cant help but be humbled, awed...almost deferential, and ..but, on this particular day, a sunny calm day, with this particular sailor on this particular boat....very thankful that as we enter within its shadow, it will allow a peaceful passing.
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02/12/2012, Simonstown, South Africa
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02/07/2012, Cape Town S. Africa
A fascinating trip to this city of many faces.
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02/06/2012, Simonstown, South Africa
This was a most amusing visit...to the relatively rare African Penguin. As mentioned in the video they were once known as "jackass penguins", a rather derogatory sounding name to such a wistful and comic creature. They usually pair up for life and spend the day next to or in close proximity to their mate.
As for what's ahead. The South Atlantic promises to be a kinder ocean than its neighbor the Indian is and has been for most of us circumnavigating . But, Im not shouting that too loudly as....well, you know, the moment one expects something....nature and life have a way of surprising one.
That having been said, however, Im hoping for SE trade winds to blow me from Cape Town to St Helena Island...from the back... which is the most comfortable point of sail for long hauls. It is a distance of about 1600 miles and then another 3600 miles, to the Caribbean Islands. So, long ocean passages ahead.
The spirit of Napoleon awaits us at St Helena....the place of his exile.
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