Mexico's considerable wealth has always stemmed from its extensive mineral deposits. In Precolumbian times Mexico was a major source of obsidian, essential for tools and weapons. The conquistadors brought Spain great quantities of gold. By the 18th century the minerals of choice were silver and copper. And today, of course, Mexico is a leading exporter of oil to the thirsty United States.

Baja never provided much of any of these products, though plenty of attempts were made in the 19th century. Today, the mining is for more pedestrian essentials: Salt and gypsum. The pearl beds have been gone for a hundred years, and fishing is on the decline as huge commercial boats scour the Sea of Cortez, leaving a more and more barren seascape.

San Evaristo is a small fishing village perhaps fifty miles north of La Paz, with some small ranches and a salt farm. The village surrounds a pleasant and well-protected bay; a short walk to the north is a wide-open bay where the salt farm faces the San Jose Channel. We took a very pleasant stroll among the cardon cactus to get to the salt flat, which glimmered like a pink-and-white jewel against the backdrop of black rock cliffs of the Sierra la Giganta mountains behind it. Cattle loafed in the shade of the date palms that line one side of the salt, and at night we could hear goats chuckling around the village. The villagers seemed shy, and we scarcely shared a syllable with them. Yachts stop there often; perhaps they've had enough.