Ensenada Grande was our first stop in the well-known islands of Isla Espiritu Santo and Isla Partida just to the northeast of the bay of La Paz. Charter sailboats and powerboats-not to mention long-distance cruisers such as we-frequent the many beautiful coves and bays here. There is hiking and snorkeling and kayaking to be done, and sportfishing offshore.

The two islands run north-south and are separated from one another by a collapsed volcanic cone, now flooded, that has created a large oval bay accessible to the west. Ensenada Grande is a large inlet just to the north of this bay, offering various corners to anchor in, amidst steep sandstone cliffs with deep canyons ending in lovely yellow-sand beaches. Osprey haunt the tops of the cacti and the turquoise-blue water glows with phosphorescence at night.

It was mayhem when we entered Ensenada Grande to anchor. We counted seventeen other boats there, mostly powerboats with music blasting and dinghies racing to and fro. But during the night a good, stiff Coromuel came up, blowing twenty knots off the cliff sides. Nobody dragged, but it wasn't entirely comfortable and by late morning almost everyone had left; in the afternoon we had the bay to ourselves.

These islands are a stunning introduction to the beauty of the Sea of Cortez, and with the exception of the Coromuels would be an ideal cruising ground for a week or two. We spent a couple of days in Ensenads Grande before moving on to the north, but we wanted to make sure to come back on our way south again to explore the islands further.