Hanavave, Fatu Hiva
23 May 2017 | Fatu Hiva, Marquesas Islands, French Polynesia
Hanavave (pronounced Hana var vay)
Not being inclined to sail to windward unless necessary, we undertook the sail down to Fatu Hiva as it is only a day sail and in any event we did not need to tack - most of the way we were doing over 7 knots - GO MONKEY FIST !!!! The seas were a little rough but isn't that to be expected out on the open ocean ? It does surprize us how many yachts are reluctant to sail to windward, even if it is only for a day. In the case of most (but not all) modern catamarans that don't do this well I can understand it (they would need to motor but then they do have two motors), however in the case of a modern monohulls I really can't see the problem, but obviously there is one.
Frances tells me that Fatu Hiva is the most photographed place in the Marquesas and understandably why, it is stunning. It is possible to get here via commercial transport via the small ferry from Hiva Oa (50 nautical miles to the north) but there is no commercial accommodation available. The population is around 500 people between the two villages on Fatu Hiva. The influence, historical and contemporary, of the French here has enabled the original inhabitants to have, that they would not have otherwize, such as electricity (in Fatu Hive by micro hyro generation); health care; social security; potable domestic water; public transport; education opportunities; television; internet; often but not always, a very good standard of housing; roads and cars; boats and so on and so forth,. The French Polynesian people live a lifestyle of a standard significantly higher than other Pacific island nations, as we noted several years ago. Mind you I have been told that France subsides French Polynesia to the tune of $2 billion per year. From memory there is always a push for independence but I have to ask myself, if I were a native of this country would I support independence ? As a person growing up in a western society I would have to say no, but if I were an original inhabitant, my values and priorities may be different. The photo is of the anchorage at Hanavave village.