Our advance team (rally mates who have been here for several days) had made the acquaintance of a local entrepreneur, Ahmet, who speaks OK English (he was an English teacher...yikes) and who wants to organize some tours for us. Of course, my antennae went up...but on further reflection, I thought...we're here, why not.) The organizer's plan of the day was to take us to the local market, help us in the purchase of the local fruits and veggies, and then take us to his home and have his wife give us a cooking lesson for a traditional Indonesian meal, followed by the eating of such meal. Talk food and we're in!

Of course, the market was wonderful, and we were delighted to be able to refill our now depleted freshies: eggs, tomatoes, scallions, lettuce, paw-paw (a/k/a papaya) string beans, carrots, etc. Since I am in the mode of being adventurous, I took a bite of some product offered, and as much as I try to be respectful, I had to (quietly) spit it out into my hand. It tasted like a very unripe banana. It was, as I later found out, betel nut, which many of the women chew on. Apparently, it is an intoxicant which, as a side benefit, turns their mouths red, rots their teeth and gives them mouth cancer. I had noticed many of the women with very red lips...but I thought it was some fashionable Indonesian lipstick.

We then were driven to Ahmet's family home where his wife and the guide, Fitri (who turned out to be his daughter) prepared the meal using the ingredients she had purchased earlier in the day in the market. Cut, chop, cut, cut, chop, chop, and on and on and on. It took the better part of 3 hours for the two ladies to make the meal, sitting on the floor, while we watched and listened. Never was I more grateful for my Cuisinart, mini-Cuisinart, mandolin, grater, etc. So, in the balance in life, they deep fry everything in oodles of (not good) oil...but what's being fried is very healthy...lots of fresh veggies. Maybe they're onto something.

The meal was delicious. The fried fish was really tasty...although very bony. Garlic, chili, all manner of onions (red, white and green), salt, chicken bouillon, seemed to have a starring role in every dish. My fav was the deep fried (of course) carrots and tempe (fermented tofu). Mmmmm good.

Their home: Very interesting. I suspect that, by Alor standards, they are at the high end. Ahmet has a car: a Toyota SUV...one of the only private cars we've seen. Their home is made of brick and mortar, but has a corrugated tin roof. In the kitchen are piles of ceramic tiles which are currently being laid in a back room. Sounds good, no? Well, then there is the functional side. They have a well outside, and no running water inside. I didn't see a bathroom, and didn't ask. Outside the front door are many buckets with water...for laundry, washing dishes, etc. Their cooking facilities consist of two kerosene stoves. No fridge. No sink. One light bulb in the kitchen/eating area. The water for cooking was stored in a big plastic bucket. No preparation island in the kitchen for them. The two ladies sat on the floor, cutting and chopping, with not even a cutting board. Everything was done in their hands. Now, not to interject my values but...before my husband tiled an outside room, I would be lobbying for a kitchen upgrade. Just saying....