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Namani at Sea
The travels of Nana, Markus and Nick aboard Namani
09-Mar-2012, Anchored in Puerto Moreno off Cristobal, Galapagos

We dropped the hook off Cristobal in the Galapagos at 1500 local time (UTC-6) yesterday (Fri, 09MAR) after a beautiful 9 1/4 day passage from Panama City. We had a little excitement on the way in when the wind died 15 nm out from Cristobal and we wanted to start the engine. After doing its usual faithful start-up it shut off again 30 sec. later with all symptoms of getting no fuel. With the tank still more than half full we started investigating from the tank downstream for any blockage in the fuel system. Unfortunately, this requires complete excavation of the cockpit locker for access to the primary fuel filter and of the quarter berth for access to the tank - always a "fun" exercise... Luckily though, we found the culprit quickly in the pipe from the tank to the primary fuel filter, which was clogged with some gunk that probably came aboard with fuel we took on in Jamaice (the last stop where we fueled up directly from a pump). Just in case, we also changed both fuel filters and two hours little everything was running fine again. By that time also the wind had set in again and we got another two hours of nice close reach sailing. As soon as we had dropped the anchor, Bolivar approached us on a water taxi and offered his agent services. We had heard good things about him from other boats, so we agreed and an hour later he showed up again with five officals in tow (customs, immigration, agriculture and two more with an undefined portfolio for good measure). They all were nice, helpful and professional, and another hour later we were officially cleared into the Galapagos and allowed to go ashore. Thus we went for a dinner in town, which very nice if a bit more built up and developed than we had expected. Sea lions are abound everywhere, lazily hanging out on the benches in the local playground and lots of other places along the shore. We returned to Namani around 9pm local time, with just enough energy to happily sink into our bunks for a good night's sleep uninterrupted by the watch schedule. On this passage we sailed a total of just about 1000nm (including the initial 40nm hop to Las Parlas). We had 50 hours under engine, covering 232 nm of the 1000nm "under steam". The rest was absolutely delightful slow but steady sailing over calm seas. Very different from our passages before but certainly very enjoyable and relaxing. Now we will do a little bit of clean up on Namani, sort through a few hundred pictures and come up with a game plan for the 20 days we plan to stay here in the Galapagos. Bill will leave us on Monday to join Bonnie (flying in from LGA) on a Galapagos tour. Hopefully, we can have a little reunion with both of them on Namani after their tour. Stay tuned...

PS: Picture above shows the clearing-in procedure (one official all the way to the right didn't make onto the picture...)

09 - Pacific Crossing
Over the Line!
08-Mar-2012, 70nm to go to the Galapagos

We crossed the equator this morning at 7am local time (EST) and Namani is now officially in the South Pacific. We had the proper initiation procedures that turned all us Polywogs into Shellbacks. The role of Neptune was played by Nicky's stuffed monkey Frodi (manufactured in SE Asia and therefore the only one aboard wh o had crossed the equator before by boat), assisted by Mr. H (Nicky's other stuffed monkey).

Wind has backed and we have been on a broad reach since last night. Put the Parasailor up this morning and made good and comfortable progress. Now (2030 local time) the wind seems to be dying and we may have to douse it. If all goes well we'll reach Cristobal in the Galapagos tomorrow midday. Stay tuned...

09 - Pacific Crossing
Two days ...
07-Mar-2012, 150nm to go to the Galapagos

.. until we hope to reach the Galapagos. We're currently (2200 local time on 07MAR) 20nm north of the Equator and about 150nm from Cristobal, our destination in the Galapagos. Sailing has been beautifully relaxed again today, close reaching in light but steady winds at about 4kn under blus skies. The Intratropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) which had sat stubbornly sout of the Equator for a few days has now gone out of the way and moved north of us, probably accounting for the splendid conditions yesterday and today. Now we try to time our Equator crossing for the daylight hours, so we don't have to raise the off-watch in the middle of the night to follow the "ceremonies". All is well aboard, stay tuned...

PS, as a quick update on our little "DR experiment" (see previous post): We got a good fix between Venus and Canopus last night which brought us within 3 nm of our GPS position. We still hold out hope for landfall on Friday also in our little theoretical scenario. Nicky has become amazingly quick and accurate at taking star, planet and moon sights. Sight reduction might be few years off for him, but that's the easy part anyway. Now the pressure is on Bill and me to keep up with him. He beats us on speed already, so we can only hope to get him on accuracy ;-)

09 - Pacific Crossing

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