Stuck at Zaverda (Palairos)
30 September 2012
Monday 24th September
Slept like the dead, and woke up at 09:00 to another beautiful day. My milk was on the turn, but mixed with some cereal I soon got used to the taste, I'm going to miss having brekkie in the cockpit when it starts getting colder and wetter. Moving on day today as my waters just about gone. Do the washing up, check the bilges, engine oils and belts, get the dinghy onboard over the bow and wash it in fresh water, fold it up and lash it to the cabin top, stow stuff below back into the lockers. Crank over the engine,switch on gauges, plug in the autopilot, bucket of water ready by the anchor winch to wash the chain, and before you know what's happening I'm bringing up Nanjos anchor chain and we are on the move again. As expected it was covered in thick mud, but it's soon gone with a few buckets of sea water thrown over it, give Tom and Anne a wave as I motor past and down to Nidri. I'm amazed that there are still so many yachts about, once clear of Nidri and into the sea, and the winds picking up nicely, I get the jib out. I'm heading straight for "Dan Bay". Once far enough out, I empty the holding tank and the macerators been behaving itself really well lately, all done in a few minutes. Through the binoculars I can see Dan Bay and there is no one else there. 13:45 and I'm dropping the anchor in 4 mtrs of clear water, it's a lovely spot. Make sure Nanjos not going anywhere and it's on with the goggles and snorkel and off with the pants, you just can't beat skinny dipping, believe me? Plenty of gorgeous blue/silver fish about, and they are all feeding of the weed on Nanjos hull, I dive under and clean the log impellor as it's not been working since Sami, the slightest bit of weed and it just jams up and won't spin. Back on board for some lunch and a coke, a couple of yachts approach,so back on with my pants. But thankfully they just take pictures and move away again. Last time I was here was with Debbie and Andrea on board, I kept thinking I heard there voices and laughter, we had a lovely afternoon lunch/swim here. Back on with the goggles and snorkel and feeling adventuress I head of to the rocks on the Western side, plenty of fish about and as I get nearer to the rock pools, I come across some biggies about 18in long. They seemed as suprised to see me as I them, this would explain why last time a fishing boat was in this area? Being able to use the snorkel has made a big difference to seeing whats going on underwater, I really must get a set of flippers next. Back on board and a shower of the stern, read my book and sunbathe for a bit. Get the anchor up and head of to Spartakhorri, theres no wind, so the motors on, and I'm soon coming into Spartakhorri. Plenty of space as well, George spots me and is of his seat and pointing to a gap, I can already see the dissapointed look on his face? Hand him my bow lines and his first words are "Where are the lovely ladies?", I'm all tied up by 17:00. Go for a cold mythos and a tzatziki and tell him that I'm back on my own again, I'm told not to come back without Debbie and Andrea? Don't you just love the Greek sense of humour, well, I think he's joking? Back on board and have another swim/snorkel, lovely long shower below and can hear my water pump sucking air, seems I got here just in time? Go ashore later for a mousaka and mythos, I'm sitting at my usual table on my own, on the internet and it seems that everybodies leaving early. I'm just about to go, when he comes over and brings me a beer, on the house. Tells me I'm not looking happy and we have a chat,last time here with the girls it was all laughter and smiles, I will have to try this technique again, if not looking happy gets me a beer? I'm the last to leave the taverna.
Tuesday 25th September
Slept really well, had a quick wash from one of my bottles and decide to treat myself to a breakfast. I have the omlette and bacon and it's absolutely delish, get on line for a bit, see George about some water and pick up the bread I ordered. I'm soon filling the water tanks, have another chat and they are not closing now until the 20th October, which is great news for me. I'm just getting ready to leave when a large steel Brit yacht comes in beside me, another singlehander and we get to chatting. Nice bloke called Peter, bought his yacht in Turkey after being made redundant from Gosport dock yard. He's been out here for years, I'm sure we will bump into each other again sometime. He does not reckon I will last back in the UK for one week, so suggested buying an Easy Jet flight now UK to Athens as it will be cheap for March and just tossing it away if I don't use it? I have to be really honest, his idea did sound a good one, and he's not the first person who reckons that I won't last in the UK or being able to hold down a job? Left Spartakhorri at 11:30 and headed for Zaverda (Palairos) up in the Eastern corner of the mainland, a new place for me. Not much wind to start with, but soon have the main and jib up, it's a gorgeous afternoon and only have to dodge around one Sunsail yacht. I'm soon approaching Zaverda and getting all my stuff ready for a bow on, stern anchor out mooring. Enter the harbour and it's small and pretty full, but after a slow lap, I spot a space big enough for Nanjo next to a motorboat and a Sweedish yacht. The guy even gets of and gets ready for my bow lines, I line Nanjo up, drop the stern anchor and let the chain run through my gloved hand, while steering with the other. I must be honest it all went text book, and I'm passing over my bow lines in minutes. A lovely guy and his wife, they have only just arrived here themselves and were about to go ashore when he saw me coming in, and knew this was the only space left. He does warn me about locking up Nanjo, apparently the charter company who have a jetty here had 12 yachts broken into a few days ago, and they attempted to break into some on the quay as well. That's the first time I have heard of theft from yachts, I reckon that as I'm in between boats costing at least 5 times Nanjos value and they are all bristling with the latest antennas and on show chart plotters advertising what expensive goodies they have below to steal, I'm hopefully ok? Head into town after securing all hatches, well just to be on the safe side, and it's a lovely place, plenty of tavernas and I spot a takeaway giros place, I will be going back to later. There is even free water on the quay with a hose, I could have saved my 3 euros at Georges? Back on board and have some lunch and a coke, sit and read my book with the sun awning up, it's a cracking afternoon and is now 33 degs. Have a lovely shower once the sun goes down, and back ashore for my takeaway giros, cost 2 euros and one was certainly enough for me. Back on board to get my laptop and of to an internet bar for a drink, I'm trying to load the pictures for Debbie and Andreas week out onto the blog, and it's taking ages. I'm the last person in the bar, and decide the owner wants to pack up and go home, I will get on line again at Vlicho.
Wednesday 26th September
Turned in about 1am and slept really well. Up at 9am and brekkie on board, the suns up and it looks like a lovely day ahead. I'm going back to Vlicho today, to chill out (even more) and save some money. Well that was the plan at 9am when I wrote it, I should have gone then. But at 10:30 the winds picked up and there has been a strong cross wind blowing through the harbour, after watching a few yachts get into trouble leaving, and bringing there anchors up, and all with crew, I decided to sit it out and see what happens. The wind actually increased in the afternoon, and at 3pm I decided that another day here is no problem, it was tough enough watching yachts coming in, and they had crew up front working the anchor. My main worry was pulling myself out with the kedge, clearing the yacht next to me, then the wind would take the bow round instantly leaving me pointing the wrong way, while I'm pulling the anchor up, and as soon as it was of the bottom, we would be getting blown about even more facing into the harbour with not much space, while I tried to motor and turn Nanjo round and get the rest of the anchor up. Weighing all the odds of it going tits up, it was just not worth the risk. Had a lovely 49ft Brit yacht go alongside me later, Greg and Jilly on board. They come out here twice a year for a few months at a time, he sailed down from the UK with a 36 footer and realised it was to small when he got to Spain and has been buying bigger yachts since, he does reckon that 49ft is the biggest two people can handle now. He does own his own company back in the UK to finance it all,which helps I guess? Spent the afternoon reading my book and watching the world go by. Shower just before it got to dark and into town for a giros, and a couple of beers at the internet bar. Am back on board for 23:30 and the winds are still howling.
Thursday 27th September
Actually had to open the main hatch as I was to hot, slept well, but woke every now and again to a howling wind. Up at 08:30 and the winds worse than yesterday, the first yacht of the day leaves and has a few minor problems with the cross wind. It's not looking good for me? Brekkie in the cockpit and think about my options.
The wind just did not stop at Zaverda, constantly blowing across the harbour, it was only after chatting to another brit couple I found out it's normal, and he said that nobody goes bow in unless they really have to because of getting back out, on top of that he pointed out I was in the worst possible place as the flotilla pontoon was directly opposite, so less room to manouerver. Greg even offered to come on board and steer and use the engine control, while I got the anchor in, then he would jump of and swim back to his yacht? I said it's best if I work it out myself but thanks for the offer. Greg and Jilly soon went and were going down to Kalamos Island,they had walkie talkies so they could talk to each other when Jilly was up the bow doing the anchor, now that's when you know you have a BIG yacht? I told Greg he will read about my problems in the next edition of "The Ionion", and he said call the article "Chaos at Palairos"? It was one of those situations that the more I thought about getting out the more problems I could see going wrong and the more damage to Nanjo and other yachts I could see. All the scenarios I was playing in my head did not look good. They ranged from rope around the prop,anchor chain around the prop,anchor caught on rudder,hitting other yachts and even hitting the fishing boats at the end of the harbour. But in the end it all went brilliantly and text book. The wind started to have a few lulls in it about 4pm, just for a few minutes. I got everything ready, singled up the bow line,started the engine, and stood in the bow waiting and watching my flag. As soon as it drooped, I released the bow quickly, walked back to the stern and started to pull the rope in, as expected the bow started to swing out, but as I was pulling the rope in as fast as possible, Nanjo easily missed the next yacht moored up. When I got to the chain, I pulled it in as fast as possible and just dumped it in the cockpit and stern platform, Nanjos now facing down into the harbour as expected, so I'm now pulling her weight and the chain/anchor as well. The weight came on the anchor and luckily with a big tug it broke free of the bottom, it's only 2.5 mtrs deep. So I quickly got it onboard and on the stern platform, took hold of the tiller and gave her some power ahead. The nearest yacht was probably 3 mtrs away, plenty of room. Nanjo will spin round on a sixpence, and she performed just brilliantly a very quick 180 degree turn, and we were heading out of the harbour at 16:40 and no problems. Once safely outside, I put the autopilot on, slow ahead on the engine and re-stowed the anchor chain in its bucket and secured the anchor to the rail then put away the fenders and ropes. I must be honest it was such a big relief that nothing went wrong, I gave Nanjo a big pat on the coaming for doing her part and making me look good again. There was little wind outside, so it was motor and jib out all the way to Vlicho, a lovely evening with very few yachts about. I arrived at Vlicho just as the sun was going down, said hello to Tom and Anne as I motored past, Tom called back "your late, you said back in 24hrs" and dropped my anchor in virtually the same spot I had left 4 days earlier at 19:10. It was great to be home again, went for a swim straight away and washed the mud of Nanjos stern platform from dropping the anchor and chain there. Vlicho was just magic and all calm and quiet. I made a large spag bol, with a beer for dinner.Then sat in the cockpit, relaxing. Oh boy, do I love this place. A can of coke and a couple of large JD's ended a perfect day. Just got to buy my girl a pressie for being so good, and the engine oil will need changing soon as well, before my mate arrives in a few weeks.
Friday 28th September
Slept like a log, it was a gorgeous warm night with absolutely no wind and no sounds on Nanjo or the bay. Up at 08:30 and I'm out of bread and milk, so it's a black coffee and a couple of biscuits for breakfast, in the cockpit, the suns out 28 degs on my gauge, blue sky and flat sea. Time to pump up the dinghy and row ashore to my favorite bakers. Ten minutes after thinking about it, the dingies pumped up and made fast to the stern cleat, Tesco bag with a t-shirt,glasses and boat keys,flip flops and oars on board and I'm casting of for a lovely row ashore. I'm soon tyed up behind "H's" yacht and walking to the bakers, first thing I notice is the kids are back at school. Another suprise is a new woman at the bakers serving, I get a popeye pie,slice of pizza and of course some crusty bread. Next stop the supermarket, some cold milk, tomatoes and fruit. Total spend 8 euros 30 cents, that should see me through till Monday and my planned trip to Lefkada and Carrefour for some cheap supplies. Back on board and it's cold milk in my cereal and a lovely frappee in the cockpit. Give Tom and Anne a wave as they get there anchor up and head of to Spartakhorri for the day, just wonder if they will be back tomorrow or try out Zaverda? It's 33 degs and absolutely gorgeous day, up with the sun awning and a lazy day is planned, just reading my book (which I finished at 5pm) and just doing nothing else. My list of small jobs get started on tomorrow. Had a lovely long swim as the water was so flat, managed 30 laps, but I did not look good by the time I climbed out of the water? Gorgeous shower on the stern as all the yachts around me are empty, plenty of room to move around and get those suds working? Dinner was very simple, popeye pie,slice of pizza sprinkled with Chinese dipping sauce and a beer, absolutely delish and just one plate to wash up. Sat in the cockpit, it's a gorgeous evening and a full moon which is just lighting up the bay brilliantly, everything is flat calm and very little noise apart from the odd scooter. I went below at 23:00 and put a cd on my player, poured a large JD and just laid on my day bed in the dark listening to Beethoven, Moonlight sonata in C sharp minor, Pathetique in C minor and the Waldstein sonata in C major, sheer magic.
Saturday 29th September
Slept really well and woke at 08:30 to a gorgeous sunrise, I opened the cabin doors and just saw this amazing vapour trail around the bay, it was a complete circle and at the same level everywhere. I took some pics and it was soon burned away by the sun, had my brekkie in the cockpit and the milk was still ok, so some cereal as well. I'm down to my last 20 euros so have planned a trip into Nidri and the atm for later. Somehow I got sidetracked, and the planned trip ended up being much later, in fact at the hottest part of the day? It was 36 degs by the time I loaded up the dinghy for my row ashore, so glad I filled my water bottle and a pocket of boiled sweets. It was a gorgeous walk into town, but now even some of the larger tavernas have closed up, I passed the Olive Tree on the main road and all his chairs are stacked away and everything not bolted down has been removed. The first atm had money in, which for a Saturday is a sign that things are getting quiet, in town there was a noticable lack of tourists about, most nof the souvenier shops are doing special offers, I checked out some flippers down from 34 euros to 25, but still to expensive for me! The town quay had plenty of space for yachts and a few of the tripper boats have gone and there signs taken away, even a look over to Tranquill bay and there was plenty of space to anchor. I wonder what it will be like at the end of October? A nice walk back and within 30mins I'm walking into Vlicho, I decide to treat myself to a popeye pie at the new bakers, but he's sold out. He does tempt me with a fetta cheese and olive oil pie though, but it certainly sounded better than it tasted, it was the driest pie I've ever eaten and was hard work. It took all my will power to walk past the yacht club and not go in for a cold mythos? I'm soon back on Nanjo and it's toasting outside, up with the sun awning and start my new book. It's soon snack time and I make a couple of tomato and cucumber sarnies,drizzled with olive oil, and they are delish washed down with a beer. Time for a quick nap. Wake at 6pm and jump overboard for my swim, it's back to 25 laps as there is a German yacht anchored nearby and people are sitting in the cockpit, I would hate to put them of there dinner? I cook a simple throw together, and I'm impressed with the result as usual. We still have the gorgeous full moon lighting up the bay, it's so nice to relax after a hard day in the evening? Go below later and dig out half a dozen cd's I've not heard in years, finish of my bottle of JD and just lay on my day bed listening to the music in the dark.Magic.
Sunday 30th September
I don't remember climbing into my bed, but I slept well. Until rudely awoken by the priest at 08:00, calling everybody in earshot (he has some very big loudspeakers) so probably as far as Nidri? I'm sure he reckons that if he has to get up early on a Sunday morning, then all the lazy yachties at anchor in his bay have to as well? I just wish he could sing, or even whistle in tune would be nice, but he has the kind of voice only normally heard in the first round of the X Factor? Only problem, is there is no Simon Cowell out here to tell him not to come back next week? It's a gorgeous morning though, the suns shining, blue sky an a flat sea and at 11:00 it's already 30 degs. I do afew little tidy up jobs and get ready for my trip ashore to the yacht club, for my eagerly awaited bacon butty and cold beer. 12:00 and the bags packed with my laptop, the empty 20ltr water containers in the dinghy and I'm setting of to the yacht club. Straight through the door and Belindas the first person I see, and straight away she looks at me and says "bacon sandwich, brown sauce and a fruit juice" which would normally be 100% correct, but now it's past 12 so I opt for the draught beer instead of orange. I'm soon surfing the net, catching up with this blog and e-mails, I also have time to look at rental properties around N/N depot. Some nice places about and all within a cycle ride as well. The bacon buttys one of the best and it has to be followed by another beer, but that's my lot as it would be so easy to spend the rest of the afternoon here. Back on board and up goes the sun awning, it's 37 degrees now, have a quick swim and settle down with my new book. I'm suprised when a small dinghy comes by and it's Belinda having her first sailing lesson and doing rather well, until I watch later a spectacular capsize. Oh well, it's all part of sailing dinghies, and she and her instructor are soon up again and sailing across the bay. Have a short nap, as I'm knackered? Woke at 18:30 and the suns going down, jump over the side and have a lovely swim in the cooling down water. Dinner is a tin of plum peeled tomatoes on toast, absolutely delish and a beer. The moons still full and lights up the bay just enough, at 21:00 it's still 28 degrees outside. I go below at 10pm and dig out some more cd's I've not played in ages. A triple box set of Big bands, British, Latino and American. I'm out of J/D but it's still a lovely way to end the day, just lying in the dark.