07/23/2008, Back at AYC
Well. How to put this?
It started.
It ran.
It ended.
And now we are home again.
Details?
Well, we started the race on a bright but cloudy day with almost perfect winds to beat out of the Harbour on one long starboard tack. One short tack to round the Bravo Buoy and we were off on a broad reach for St-Pierre.
We tried out the mizzen staysail for the first time and what a beaut! The winds gave us 7.5 knots for the rest of the daylight hours and built slightly into the night and morning. By 0900 on the morning of the second day we were topping 8 knots! By 1100 the winds had built to the point that we had to drop the mizzen staysail. It is supposed to be for light weather, after all, and the winds were by no stretch of the imagination light! Although we had rounded the buoy in second to last place, by the morning we had passed most of the fleet and were tied for third place on actual time and likely first on corrected!
The boat and crew were working like a well oiled machine - sails trimmed, course steered, meals prepared and consumed, watched set and manned, everything was going perfectly!
Wahooo!
We were going to knock 12 hours off our previous time and I was planning what I was going to be doing with the extra night in St-Pierre and where I was going to hang the trophy.
Then, disaster! As we crested a wave we were smacked by another errant wave from a different angle that hit the rudder and tore the auto helm off its mounting. As it came down it pulled off a couple of the other electrical connections as well so we were back to manual steering and were missing some key ingredients for navigation. I experimented with the steering to see how well the rest of the crew had picked up helming but in short order I discovered that although keen and well intentioned they simply didn't have the experience to do the job in those conditions - 30+ knot winds in 2-3 meter seas - and I simply couldn't do it myself for 24 hours. I made the decision to abort and head into Louisburg to repairs. That evening, in dense fog we were along side.
Next day I found a piece of oak aboard that I tried to make a replacement fitting. The problem was that the grain on the piece that I happened have was the wrong way. Even in calm weather it didn't last five minutes in operation. So, back to the dock. This time I resolved to make one of metal and scoured Louisburg for a machine shop. Unfortunately there simply wasn't one. What there was, however, was a very obliging and helpful gentleman with both the the necessary machines in his garage and a sheet of eighth inch stainless steel plate. From this we made two sheets of support for the autohelm and used them both! He wouldn't take any payment and he wouldn't even join us on the boat for a drink! Really great fellow and very helpful.
Next morning we were off again and determined to make it to St-Pierre even though we had been disqualified for motoring into Louisburg. We left at 0800 and arrived in France after 24 hours as the last boat to arrive. Barb was already there having flown in the day before to meet us on the dock. Our hostess, Katerine was also there to provide the very necessary link to the community and we began to participate in the social aspect of the event.
That night Barb and I went to one of the local restauraunts to have a belated 30th anniversary dinner. We had already exchanged gifts on the boat - she receiving a string of pearls and I, a really fine Bulova Marine Star watch. The meal was superb, as would be expected, after which we toured the waterfront. Bluenose II was in harbour as part of the celebration and we were invited aboard to a reception - free drinks and hors d'ouvres - yummy, except that we had already eaten.
Next day we got up early and Barb went off to the local bakery for some croissants and bread and I prepared breakfast for the crew. After which we prepared for the Sailors Parade up to Hotel de Ville (Town Hall). This is always a fun event with the boat crews carrying flags and noise makers, escorted by the town band and carrying a maple tree as a gift to the town. At the Town Hall the Mayor makes a short speech and invites us in for cocktails, wine and more food. Then a quick nap on the boat to recover and prepare for the BBQ and dance that night. The BBQ was not. Instead they provided us with a very tasty cold meal of pizza squares, pate, pasta salads and a variety of jellied salads. Inexpensive cash bar and a variety of music. The first band was from France, and was very good, just not the sort of band that you'd like to dance to. The next was from Halifax called the Hopping Penguins, who have a sort of rock regge sound that pretty much everyone liked.
The following day, was the day for the Grand Prix de St-Pierre, the race in the harbour, followed by the awards dinner. Unfortunately, poor weather (no wind and dense fog) scrubbed the race, but the dinner was great. Although we were not in the running for any prizes, I did get to see the main trophy for the cruising class which we won in 2006. There was NELLEKE's name as well as mine on one of the plaques, which was nice to see. Also, Amy on our crew won the most valuable crew person award, the first time that was awarded. She was presented with a small wooden box which, when opened, was found to contain a clock and a compass, which we proptly christened her "man finder".
Next day we said adieu to Barb who was flying out back to Halifax and set off to motor sail home. She later told us that as they flew over they could see us below just as we were entering the fog. That day was very pleasant and we event were able to spot a pod of humpback whales in our wake. Too far to photograph but we could make out that there were two or three individuals feeding.
Gorgeous sunset which is supposed to bode well for the next day, but the suset lied! By noon the winds were picking up and seas building, so I made the call to head into Canso harbour and let it pass. Good thing too! The last 5 hours of that leg were in winds exceeding 40 knots! We had the engine making turns for what would normally give us eight knots but were struggling to make four! Then, after we turned into the harbour, it was like the pressure lifted. No apparent wind, no seas, peace! we came alongside at the marina and said hello to some old friends. Tuna followed us in and the two of us got a fuel truck to come alongside and replenish our tanks. A little later Dogsled came into the marina as well. Laundry, showers, a hot meal and sleep - blessed sleep, without the tension of listening with half an ear for a change in the engine noise, or the rigging, or the motion of the boat and withourt having to brace yourself against the motion.
The next day the weather forcast gave us 12 hours of relatively smooth sailing so we decided to head for Liscomb to get a little closer to home. With the exception of one brief squall the trip was relatively peaceful and calm and we got into the harbour in time for dinner at the Lodge. Strange. This was the first time ever that I had been into Liscomb when the marina wasn't packed. We were the only boat on the dock! Again: showers whirlpool, swim in the pool, laundry and drying of wet gear and a good night's sleep!
Then the next day my Claerpoint Weather download gave us very good conditions for the remainder of the trip to Halifax so around about 1200, off we went. A little fog at the start but clearing, and a little swell that died down as the day progressed, but sadly almost no wind. We made good time an got into AYC by 0300 on the 24th of July. Marc had to leave immediately after a beer but the rest of us stayed aboard for a sleep and breakfast with our rides then they arrived at 0730. I was awoken by a very happy Periwinkle jumping on my bunk and doing his best to lick the skin off my face.
That just about ends this year's big race adventure. All in all, although not successful from a prize winning perspective, it was supposed to be an adventure and it was; we worked together well as a team and made the trip there and back again; in spite of their lack of experience, I couldn't have asked for a more willing and patient crew; and finally we met some interesting folks both in other crews and folks ashore.
I think that I am going to miss not being in the next one.
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07/11/2008, Halifax Inner Habrour
Well. We passed the inspection. The Chief inspector, Mary had been aboard NELLEKE several times in the past to inspect her, so everything went very fast.
Some of the other boats have not been so lucky. One had to withdraw totally since she blew her engine and had to replace it. There just hasn't been enough time to get a new one installed and fully tested prior to the race. Even the race committee chairman has had the bad luck to blow out the waterpump on his boat and is madly scrambling to get a new one installed prior to the race. For him he is fortunate enough to not start until Monday so at least has a little time. NELLEKE had her own bout with equipment failure as I discovered that one of the batteries in the cranking bank was N/S. That explained a great deal as to why the house bank was discharging a lot faster than expected. Fortunately I had some extra cranking batteries aboard so replacement was quite simple with the crew's assistance.
Sadly there was very little wind so we weren't able to get out for another sail. Instead my very patient crew and I went back to AYC to fuel up for the trip. One hundred and fifty litres and $360 lighter the tank was topped up and ready for the trip.
07/10/2008 05:51:54
Getting very close, now!
Tonight we will have our safety inspection and final crew training outing. We had intended to have one more on Saturday, but with the Captain's Meeting, social events, and the various additional chores that still need to be done, I have made the Command Decision and have chosen to scrub that in favour of the extra time to get the "nice to haves" done.
I am keeping my fingers tightly crossed that for once the weather witches are on my side. They are calling for light winds during the start which will have us beating out the harbour to the Bravo buoy, but once we round that we will have 3 basically sunny days of 15-20 knot winds. Perfect for us!
There. I've said it. Now I've probably jinxed myself but, hey! I gotta plan somehow.
I sure hope that they are right. If so, it will be a very pleasant downhill slide to St-Pierre in dry weather and less than 2 meter seas. Great conditions for an essentially novice crew. It will also create a great environment for them to get the feel of sailing without the constant sensation of doing things to save their lives. It'll also give them (and me) a chance to keep watch for sea life. When it's foggy or stormy or pissing down rain you don't get a chance to see too much. Me, I plan to get caught up in some of my reading.
07/07/2008 05:51:54
Hurrah!
Our 4th crew member has arrived. Amy showed up at NELLEKE last night, and got the firehose of information jammed at her - poor lady!
We then immediately went out for a sail to get her the feeling for the boat and an initial idea of what lines go where for what. She appears to be a very quick study and I think that she'll fit in well with the rest of the mangy crew.
Now we're scrambling to find additional crew for SEA SMOKE and ALAUA VI as they have both lost someone to work and to injury recently.
07/06/2008 05:51:54
The start is drawing close and the prep-time is getting very short. My one relief is that everything that absolutely has to get done, has been done. From here on in everything else that we do is gravy. Yummy, tasty, gosh-I-really-wnat-it gravy. But gravy nontheless.
Sunday, we went out for a motor followed by a fairly decent sail. There was inintially no wind whatsoever so we motored around to Purdy's Wharf and showed the guys the Maritime Museum where the start line will be in a week's time. Then we motored back through Eastern Passage and trialed out the FLS in a real-time situation of shoaling waters. Hot-diggity am I glad we bought that puppy. In spite of shoaling waters left and right we never even came close as, guided by the technology, we were able to stay clear of any sandbars. My confidence in our ability to stay off the lumpy bits on our way south this fall has gone up exponentially. Aftre we came through the narrows the wind picked up in the outer harbour and we were able to sail.
Tuesday our 4th crewperson flys in to join us and will come out for an evening sail. Art and Marc work right beside me in the office so I know them pretty well. Amy will add some real interest to the watch schedule in that she'll have a whole new group of stories to tell and experiences to share. We're all looking forward to adding her to the crew roster.
One sail training session on Tuesday night. Then another abreiviated one which we will coincide witht he inspection at RNSYS on Thursday and a final short one on Saturday prior to the Skippers meeting and we'll be as prepared as we'll ever be for this race.
06/24/2008 05:51:54
A pleasant, albeit slow, sail was had on the Northwest Arm Tuesday night. Only one of the confirmed crew joined us, but stalwart Dave, the fellow who had joined me on a previous RHSP and on last years Marblehead Race came out to join us as an extra hand. Too bad he won't be able to come this year but at least we can get him out for day sails as often as his schedule will allow.
We will also be adding a new member of the crew. A lady by the name of Amy has asked to join us by way of an auction to raise money for breast cancer research. She is a biology professor at a university in Indianna and trains cadaver dogs as a sideline. Sounds like she'll be someone really interesting to chat with during the watches.
The evening was plagued with low and variable winds so the guys found out first hand why I really hate to sail in the Arm. We put up main and jib and coasted out as far as RNSYS in about an hour and a half. This distance is usually covered in 15 minutes! Although something less than adrenalin pumping, it did give us a chance to play with trimming the sails and give Marc some time on the helm.
We also met up with SEA SMOKE, a Bavaria 38, one of the other military entries in the race. Looks a bit like a more solidly built Benateau and appears quite fast. They will be entering the white sail class so I guess they'll be the competition.
NELLEKE has also changed docks and I'm still getting used to pulling into our new space. I'm starting to get the hang of it and am getting quite adept at manouvering in tight spaces.
Work on the boat on Wed night and then another evening of sail training on Thurs.
06/22/2008 05:51:54
We got out again on the weekend with the crew.
After fighting our way through dense fog it cleared just as we got into Halifax harbour and we had a nice sail from Georges Island out to beyond Hangman's Beach.
They guys are getting more and more used to the boat, where things are and where to put other things. We still have to work on understanding the instrumentation, watch discipline, MOB drills, and vessel sensitivity but on the whole I think the personalities are a good match. I am hoping that a fourth crewmember will fall out of the woodwork. One that is an experienced sailor so that if something happens to me the other guys will be able to get themselves out of trouble. I have a couple of irons in the fire.
06/12/2008 05:51:54
Finally! We were able to coordinate NELLEKE readiness, the weather and crew availability and got out in the harbour for a couple of hours of sailing.
With winds as 25 knots gusting to 40 we didn't have a whole lot of sail up and conditions in the harbour were challenging to say the least. With the downtown office buildings and the bridges the winds were full of eddys and direction changes, but still, it was fun to get out with the guys and bang around the harbour.
After 6 months of being up on the hard some lessons have to be relearned, not the least of which is to make sure that everything is properly stowed. No damage except to self-esteem.
I'm still not sure if we want to add another crew member to fill up the liferaft, but I have been considering it.
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06/07/2008, AYC at the dock
For the first time we have had the full crew aboard to start the practical on-board training cycle. We ran through all of the equipment operation, instrumentation use, they all got the head lecture and, most importantly, since they had all crewed for me before, they all were introduced to the new equipment that we have on board.
Next Tuesday, weather permitting, we will start actual sail training out in the harbour.
I'm pretty comfortable that this will be a really good crew. We might not be the youngest, or the strongest, or even the most talented, but we get along and everyone is prepared to pitch in and do what is necessary to get the job done. I am very much looking forward to the race and our visit to St-Pierre. Neither Marc nor Art have been there before and to do so as part of an event like this just adds to the flavour of the visit.
Our support crew, specifically the Admiral, Barb, will be flying over to join us on the 16th to be part fo the festivities and to let us celebrate our 30th Aniversary in style in a French Restauraunt. We'll probably do that on the evening of the 17th. That will allow us to join the rest of our crew and the others at the event sponsored BBQ on the 18th and the awards dinner on the 19th. Barb plans to fly back on the 20th and we should be leaving St-Pierre to head back to Halifax as early as possible on the same day. The other guys are planning to cruise the south coast of Newfoundland and then head back to the Bras d'Or Lakes for a regatta in East Bay at the end of the month.
As for us, I will then have one more month at work before I start my retirement leave on 29 Aug. Like I said elsewhere on this blog - "I can't wait!"
06/02/2008 06:20:01
We continue to train for the race.
Although we have all had offshore survival training at some point in our careers, either as part of the Canadian military or from a commercial seamanship school you can always do with a refresher. One of my crew is particularly good a coordinating this sort of thing and managed to arrange a session at HMCS Kootany, the fire and damage control school for the Canadian Navy and with the Seamanship Division for some liferaft refresher training.
Both sessions were more than worthwhile. Besides the fire supression training etc., Kootany has given me a great idea for a crash pad for the boat that I can make and the liferaft drill introduced us to SAS or Ship Abandonment Suits. These are compact plastic coversuits that fit in a backage about the size of a woman's purse and will fit over whatever you are wearing. The idea is that you put it on immediately before you hop in the water and it will help keep you drier and visible. Not only is it bright red, but it also comes with a cosmonot hood with a velcro attachement for a water activated light. Imagine a group of rough, tough Canadian Forces officers and Senior NCOs standing around with a little light bulb on the tops of their heads. Where is a camera when you need one?
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