Today we went through the Suez Canal.

We had an almost continuous stream of tankers and container ships overtaking us, and we had to keep close in to the side to keep out of the way. However, the wash as they went past threw us around so that we couldn't go too close inshore.

The major topic of conversation in the planning of the transit was the question of baksheesh. The pilots demand baksheesh (money, 'presents') and can get quite aggressive if they are refused. One of the first set of Rally boats to go through was physically pushed by a pilot boat, though fortunately he had fenders on so no damage was done.

One of the boats in our group managed to hit one of the channel markers while trying to keep to the side, and had to stop in Ismailia, halfway through the canal, to pay a fine. They ended up having to pay the maximum fine of US$3,000 (unbelievable) in order to be allowed to carry on. The story is that once the damage is assessed, they will be refunded the balance, but neither they nor anyone else who has seen the Canal authorities in action has any confidence that they will see any of this money again.

A sad note on which to leave Egypt and one which left a sour taste in everyone's mouth. Most of the people we have met here have been friendly, whilst cheerfully trying it on at every opportunity. However, the tourist sites, like the Pyramids, for example, seem to be run as a pure money making operation, with little investment being put in to preserve the monuments or to provide facilities to make one's visit more enjoyable.

It was definitely worth coming to Egypt for the visit to Luxor and for the experience of seeing Tutankhamun's treasure, but now we have 'been there, done that', we feel no desire to return.