Ntombi

27 September 2023 | Serutu
16 September 2023 | Lovina Beach Bali
14 August 2023 | Rumah Makan Apung Emas Biru
25 July 2023 | Debut anchorage
23 May 2023
09 May 2023 | Port Vila Vanuatu
09 September 2019
29 June 2019 | Denerau harbour Anchorage/Wailoaloa beach/Vuda Marina
25 June 2019 | Beqa island, Robinson Crusoe island, Noisali island

Atlantic crossing complete

30 April 2012 | Fortaleza, Brazil
Francina
At 7h00 on Sabbath we left Fernando de Noronha island in low winds. Luckily the wind changed to approx 10 knots for the day and we were able to listen to some teachings by Doug Batchelor. At Sabbath closing we got very good winds between 14 - 18 knots and it stayed like that for the rest of the voyage. The current was approx 2 knots which caused very favourable sailing. Our fellow yachties at de Noronha agreed that it will take approx 4 days to reach Fortaleza, 360 miles away.
On Monday at approx lunch time, Johan started seeing buildings on the Brazilian coast. I was unable to spot the buildings and Johan then took a bearing to see if it was for real. He identified that it was Morro Branco, a town south of Fortaleza. He was like a kid, identifying more and more buildings and land as we approaching Fortaleza. We were very surprised with the city and the landscape. There are no mountains or high hills, but there are very tall buildings and lots of them, the one on top of the other.
Whilst looking at the approaching continent, I realised that we completed our ocean crossing of the Atlantic Ocean. It is interesting how differently we react to the same event. Johan was very excited about the accomplishment, whilst I was very sad about the event. I have sailed a bit more than 4000 miles, a quarter of the total distance. The remainder of the Atlantic Ocean is more coastal cruising.
As with the previous passages, we had to have something that is not working before we reach our destination. I really thought that 2 plus a bit days do not warrent anything to go wrong. We were about 4 miles from the hotel when the wind meter stopped working. We definitely needs to sort this out before we can leave again on the next trip. Whilst going through the waters at high speed, I through out the line and within a few minutes caught a nice sized silver fish. It looked very attractive for dinner. Unfortunately we lost it whilst bringing it in.
The mooring in Fortaleza is in front of the Marina Beach Hotel. It is a very nice hotel with lots and lots of rooms and we are moored right in front of them. We are moored Mediterranean style - throw out the anchor in the middle of the 'channel' and then reverse the stern to the jetty. Luckily there were two French guys at the boat next to us who helped us catching mooring lines and tied us up. We were safely moored for the night at 17h00.
We walked to town at 18h30 and they told us that it is safe to do so, even though it was getting dark. By the time we reached the Mercado Centre (arts and crafts, fruits and nuts), it was already 19h00 and the shops were closing down. The good food that we expected was therefore not available. We settled for 2 cheese croissants at R$3.50 each, whole corn on the crop at R$1.50 each and water at R$2 per bottle. R$1 = approx R4.60 This centre is very big with 6 levels where the locals sell their products. There are hand crafts, clothing, food, nuts, dried fruit and jams (or rather dried fruit jelly) for sale.
Getting off Ntombi is quite a treat. We use the mooring line to pull ourselves towards the jetty and climb off at the stern. When the tied came in on the first day, we almost bumped against the jetty. Johan had to make changes to the mooring lines to secure us in place again and prevent us from bumping at the stern.
I must admit I feel a bit like a spoilt brad. Since we left South Africa on 14th March, we were always in the ocean sailing or anchored on a swing mooring. This time we are however moored against a jetty with running water and even electricity. The first thing I did this morning was to wash the boat on the outside, but also inside. It is so nice to have running water that you can use freely for washing the boat, the dishes and washing. The cost of $90 for 3 days is worth it.
Fortaleza is a major city on Brazil's northeast coast, and the capital of Ceara state. Fortaleza is one of the largest cities in Brazil and certainly one of the most vibrant. They have a population of about 2.5 million. The city is perhaps the most popular domestic package tour destination, and Europeans are following suit. There are hundreds of sky skraper buildings. Public transport is readily available and the people very friendly and helpful. The language is a stumbling block to us. We however met a French couple (Brigitte and Serge Challiol Megret) in yacht Kallima, a 43 ft catemaran. Brigitte went to the Fruit and Vegetable market with us. It was very helpful because her French, knowledge of Spanish and the bit of Portuguese she picked up during their 3 month stay in Brazil helped a lot. She was able to ask directions and which busses to take.
The Fruit and Veggie market was very reasonably priced. What was strange to us is the fact that almost all items cost the same per kilo - R$2.00. There is no distinction between tomatoes, potatoes or guavas, all the same per kilo. There is a small food stall at the market where they sell traditional Brazilian food. Johan bought a plate consisting of something that looks like raw course mealiemeal, pasta and rice with beans, green salad and roasted beef on the side. The plate of food was only R$5.00, which was very cheap considering that both of us feasted on one plate of food.
Johan saw a shop selling pots and pans to professionals across the street from the market whilst waiting at the bus stop. We quickly went to the shop and found a new pressure cooker for R$112. It is pricy considering that I actually only needed a pressure weight and pressure ring that I lost overboard with the wash water!
It was hot on our return from the market and we therefore took a quick swim in the hotel swimming pool. After we cooled down a bit, we decided to use the bus service to go to the Supermarket to fill up our reserves, especially tomato paste and meat products. The bus stop is across the street from the hotel and a local waiting with us assisted us to get onto the correct bus. The conductor and bus driver was very helpful, showing us where to get off the bus when we eventually arrived at the bus stop close to the supermarket. All the passengers in the bus were very friendly and greeted us heartely when we left the bus. The language barrier did not affect the affection shown.
The Supermarket was a bit of a disappointment because we expected lots of tinned food which they did not stock. We suspect the reason being that this supermarket is mostly used by holiday makers and tourists, staying in the hotels in the area. When we left the shop, it was time for the locals to go home. The bus stop was very busy and we again asked the locals for help to identify the correct bus. One lady got on the same bus as us, but this time round it was a very small bus intended for approx 24 passengers. At every stop (and there were plenty) more people got onto the bus, but nobody got off. The bus has two rails (hanging from the roof) on either side for people to hang unto, standing sideways. The bus was eventually so full that we were standing hip to hip and bum to bum and still people were trying to squeeze in. Again, the staff and the locals were very friendly and greeted us with affection when we left the bus at the hotel. Maybe they were just relieved that somebody (two big South Africans) is getting off the bus! We are a bit big compared to there posture.
We met a delivery skipper, Louis van Wyk, and crew member from Pretoria in the harbour. They are delivering a power cat to the new owner in America. They took in 1000 liters of diesel in Salvador, 1000 liters in Fortaleza and will refill again in Trinidad. The price of diesel in Fortaleza is R$2.03 (R9.34) compared to R$3.60 (R16.56) in Fernando de Noronha.
There were two Dutch guys, Martin and Peter, in a very big yacht next to us. Martin's wife flew in for a 2 week visit. Peter is a construction worker whilst Martin is a designer jeweller. His speciality is diamonds and he has never worked for more than 6 months in a year. Martin's yacht, Marcia 2 is a once off build and weighs 50 tons. She was build for Arctic conditions. They sailed her to Fortaleza and plan to take her back to Netherlands where she will be on the hard to apply all the necessary changes/fixes that they identify during these two passages.
The wind forcast predicted heavy winds in Fortaleza and surroundings for Friday and Saturday. The recommendation was therefore to either leave on Thursday or wait for the wind to pass. We decided to leave on Thursday instead. Originally we wanted to go past French Guiana, but decided against it. If there is no good reason for us to go into the harbour, we would stay on course for Trinidad, another 1400 miles away. Johan went up the mast 3 times to try and fix the wind meter. When we were a few miles off the coast it started working by itself. We suspect there were interference with the radio frequency the wind meter uses.
We arrived safely in Fortaleza with very good winds to cover the 360 miles in 2 days 9.5 hours.
Vessel Name: Ntombi
Vessel Make/Model: Bruce Roberts, Offshore 45
Hailing Port: London
Crew: Johan and Francina Botha
About: Johan is the captain and qualified diesel engineer with experience in MTU, Detroit, DAF, etc engines.
Extra:
Sailing in Mauritius in 2003 changed our perception of sail boats. The focus therefore shifted from motor boats to sail boats. We bought a Holiday 23 after completing our Yacht Hand and Day Skipper licence with Ocean Sailing Academy in Durban in 2006. We sailed her on the Vaaldam and the dream [...]
Ntombi's Photos - Main
Photos from Northern Bali. We are anchored at Lovina Beach and rented scooters to explore the roads leading east and west of us.
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Sweet memories from PNG
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Sailing to Vanuatu from Fiji, spending time in the beautiful, clean Port Villa
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Created 23 May 2023
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Sailing Whangarei to Tauranga and back
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Created 18 July 2021
Exploring the Western side of Viti Levu
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Photos taken in Suva and surrounding suburbs
34 Photos
Created 9 June 2019
It took us 11 days, leaving Marsden Cove Marina on 18 May at 10:30. arriving in Suva, Fiji on 29 May at 10:30 am.
11 Photos
Created 4 June 2019
Very convenient marina in the town basin. Our home for 5 years
11 Photos
Created 12 May 2019
5 Photos
Created 12 May 2019
Photos taken on walks in the morning, and the surroundings after we went back into the water (whale rock damages). Waiting for the weather window to sail to attempt to sail to Auckland again.
12 Photos
Created 5 May 2013
Pictures taken of the keel being fit back on after it got loose when we hit whale rock
10 Photos
Created 5 May 2013
Pictures taken during our visit at Petrus and Alicia in Greymouth in January 2013
25 Photos
Created 9 February 2013
Pictures of New Zealand and the people we met
30 Photos
Created 20 December 2012
Photo's taken from the time we left Tongatapu until we arrived in New Zealand
20 Photos
Created 6 December 2012
Sail from Tahiti to Tongatapu island, part of Tonga
75 Photos
Created 5 November 2012
Sail from Hiva Oa, Marquesas to Apataki in Tuamotu
64 Photos
Created 9 October 2012
Photo's taken whilst sailing from Apataki to Tahiti, as well as photo's taken during our stay in Tahiti
99 Photos
Created 5 October 2012
Sail from Las Perlas to Hiva Oa
44 Photos
Created 20 September 2012
Sail from Balboa yacht club, Panama City to Las Perlas
76 Photos
Created 20 September 2012
More photo's of the canal transit and the stay at Balboa yacht club
71 Photos
Created 10 July 2012
Stay in Colon and Balboa as well as the transit through the canal
124 Photos
Created 3 July 2012
Trip from Curacao to Shelter Bay marina in Panama
39 Photos
Created 1 July 2012
Trip from Kralendijk Bonaire to Spaanse Waters Curacao
37 Photos
Created 1 July 2012
Trip from Trinidad to Kralendijk, Bonaire
39 Photos
Created 18 June 2012
84 Photos
Created 11 June 2012
Short visit to Storebay in Tobago with nice snorkeling reefs and white beaches
24 Photos
Created 11 June 2012
Trip from Fortaleza to Tobago. Visit in Scarborough, the capital of Tobago
57 Photos
Created 31 May 2012
Photo's from the trip between Ascension island and Fortaleza, Brazil
15 Photos
Created 31 May 2012
Photo's of the trip from Ascension island to Fernande de Noronha, Brazil
33 Photos
Created 27 May 2012
12 Photos
Created 15 April 2012
Voyage from Cape Town in South Africa to Saint Helena Island in the Atlantic Ocean
25 Photos
Created 15 April 2012
Photos from the day we took ownership to the day Ntombi was transported from Vaaldam to Richardsbay to sail in the Indian Ocean
1 Photo | 2 Sub-Albums
Created 28 December 2011
Photos of Ntombi when we took ownership
6 Photos
Created 28 December 2011