There's no denying it, the Crew of OD have become a bit 'Cooky' over recent years. Having vaguely followed in the wake of Captain James Cook's First voyage since entering the Pacific Ocean, on arrival in port we enthusiastically reach for the copy of his journals for his thoughts on life ashore in he 1770's. Needless to say, dropping anchor in Cooktown's Endeavour River on Australia's east coast was soon followed by a trip ashore.
It was here that Captain Cook directed the HM Endeavour having seriously damaged it's hull on the nearby Endeavour Reef. The British crew spent seven weeks of what is now 'Cooktown', repairing their ship, replenishing food and water supplies, and caring for their sick. It was also recorded as the first contact between Europeans and Indigenous Australian with the natives introducing to the Crew a strange, bouncing two legged-animal called a 'gangurru'.
We visited the James Cook museum where not only a cannon but the original anchor from the HMS Endeavour was on display. These had been found just over 40 years ago out on the reef - amazing to think they'd been there for 200 years.
Of the places we've visited, and despite Cooktown being very civilised with shops, banks and bars, it really didn't take much to visualise the Endeavour limping into the river. We very much enjoyed our time here, it lived up to expectations.
Old friends, OD and Kailani catch up in Cooktown
Leaving Cooktown behind we found safe (although not always comfortable) anchorages at Flinders Island, Morris Island, Lloyd Bay, Margaret Bay, Shelburne Bay and the Escape River before making the leap 'over-the-top'.
Cotton wool clouds as we depart Cooktown
Close encounters with cargo ships inside the Great Barrier Reef
Idyllic, remote Morris Island - before a 35kts hooly came through ... no going ashore for us but we've since heard about the resident croc so very happy we stayed on board!
An unusual geological feature at Cape Melville - numerous snakes making homes in these rocks we suspect.
The sand is 98% pure silica giving this beach the bright white colour.
The Albany Passage provides a very fast short cut through to the very tip of Australia, Cape York. The Passage is renowned for it's strong currents as the water funnels through so getting the tide times right was critical.
THE Passage
OD's Captain came up trumps, calling a 0500 lift of the anchor - to ensure arrival at the beginning of the passage at 0800 so as we had the tide running with us. Sure enough we drifted through at 10 knots with just one engine on to assist with steering, thankful we weren't having to battle against it. With a brisk wind blowing, we hoisted OD's sails and we relished the 12 knot sprint through the Endeavour Strait. It was fabulous.
Celebrating our trip 'OTT' with Kailani crew - and bubbles!
Seisia (pronounced 'say-sea-ya') with a population of just 165 was a great stop-off for a good couple of nights rest in still waters and the chance to pick-up some fresh(ish) produce before making the 750 mile passage to Darwin. It was the gathering of cats at the time we visited with at least seven multihulls in the tiny anchorage.
Five left the same day and gradually the 'pack' split as each boat found their own comfortable speeds. Just two of us were heading for Darwin direct. The sunsets were magnificent.
Each day of the passage the wonderful Australian Customs team came by to check we were OK - either by plane or by ship. The plane would swoop close, get the name of the boat, and call up on the VHF radio a little while later to say 'Hi'. What a service - or might they have been keeping a watchful eye out for drug-runners and illegal immigrants?
Having travelled the equivalent distance of a UK circumnavigation from Mooloolaba to Darwin, dropping anchor after a five day passage in Fannie Bay (our home for the next few weeks before departing on the Sail Indonesia Rally) is a welcome break. We've already been on a couple of excursions ashore but will write more about that in our next blog.