Seeing new places and anchoring - that's what we enjoy the most about our cruising life. So when we consider those two things, we'd have to say Croatia is our favourite cruising grounds in the Mediterranean.

Note in the photos above, that's our anchor chain on the sandy bottom and Trevor's reflection on the sand bottom as he takes his own photo.

With our daughter Stephanie and Aleks getting married next June in Hvar, I decided it was time to go back and update our blog with the 4 months we spent in Croatia in 2010, with a stint in Venice and Slovenia in August. It is a beautiful and diverse seascape and we took so many photos, it was very hard to pick our favourite photos and give a good representation of the coast.

As always, you can see these photos and more of Croatia by viewing the photo album ... click on "Photo Gallery" to the right and then scroll down to Croatia - Summer 2010.

The maps show Croatia's location within Europe, and then our route from the south at Dubrovnik up the coast and across the Adriatic Sea to Venice (another blog on Venice to come) and then back down the Croatian coast to Montenegro where we later wintered.








During my early reading about the country, all the names of towns and anchorages sounded so foreign. I could never remember what place was located where. So I have divided the blog into three sections.

• Southern Croatia - Dubrovnik, Ston, Korcula, Lumbarda
• Central Croatia - Hvar, Split, Pakleni Island, Primosten, Krka National Park, Kornati National Park
• Northern Croatia - Pula, Piran, Rovinj, Ist


SOUTHERN CROATIA

We cleared Customs at Cavtat, just south of Dubrovnik, after an overnight 20 hour sail from Brindisi, Italy.

While we awaited Stephanie's arrival a few weeks later, we stayed in an anchorage at village of Zaton Mali, just north of Dubrovnik. One of our memorable evenings at Zaton was dining at a local pension run by a couple and their son who spoke English. We were treated like royalty as the son explained his Father is a fisherman and has a nearby farm where they grow fruits and vegetables for their restaurant and grapes for their wine. From a simple menu we are served lasagna and grilled red snapper with home-made wine but not before they bring us their home-made lemon liquor and brandy!


DUBROVNIK





Stephanie flew into Dubrovnik where we toured the Walled City - a UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of the most prominent tourist destinations in the Med. We have learned that any location where cruise ships come, you are best to determine their schedule and then always tour when they are NOT around. So we did just that and beat the crowds (and the heat) by touring early in the morning.





We walked along the top of the massive town wall looking down upon the numerous red tile roof tops and across the Adriatic Sea. We passed cannons that were ready to attack incoming ships and looked down upon a café that was perched on the exterior wall overlooking the sea. Men were replacing tiles on the 3rd storey of a steep sloping roof, all without safety gear!

We ruined our lunch plans to dine in one the restaurants situated in an alley among the great stone walls when we treated ourselves to fresh baked warm strudels and were suddenly full (but they were so good, it was worth it)! In town, women were selling produce and I examined intricate needlework, an age old art of Croatian women.



We sailed north and stayed overnight at Prozura on Mljet Island. We were surprised and laughed as we were greeted in the anchorage by no less than 4 men waving and calling out to us from various docks trying to have us overnight on their dock and patronize their restaurant. This was the first of many times we saw this throughout Croatia. The season is short and they work hard to have you select their dock over their neighbour.

STON



We bypassed Ston on our way north with Stephanie, but stopped in on our way south. We had anchored part way up the river to Ston and took our dinghy into the town as our guide book warned of shallows. I guess the charter boats that were stuck in the muck either didn`t read or believe the books.

As we approached, the view of the stone wall was very impressive, much larger than we had anticipated. It was a steep walk up and over to the other side of the peninsula where we could look across to the country of Bosnia. We had read it was known for its seafood which proved to be correct. We had our best seafood in Croatia here. It was like going back in time to see the operating salt flats... it was so neat!





KORCULA

Our next stop was the walled city of Korcula. Anchored next door in Luka, we walked into the centre to town.




A point of interest in this walled city is the way the streets were cleverly designed to maximize the prevailing winds to help cool in the summer or reduce the effect of cold winter winds.

The summer winds funnel straight down the narrow alleys and between the buildings giving relief to the summer heat, but the N/E winter winds must "curl" down the slightly curved streets leading from the N/E lessening the effect of the cold wind. The streets at the north, by the sea/channel, fan out which allowed defenders to quickly reach the towers and walls when attackers approached.




Our seaside dinner was cut suddenly short when we noticed boats leaving the anchorage at dusk. This is normally the time everyone is settling in, not leaving! The winds picked up suddenly and we decided we must leave abruptly to check on Onward. I mentioned that we should have been tipped off a few minutes earlier as we had commented on the sailboats, with no sails up, heeling as they approach the anchorage.
For non-sailors, "heeling" means the boat is tipping onto its side which it doesn't normally do without sails up.

As we rushed back through town and to the anchorage, we arrived to find the winds had died down and Onward was safe and sound. We were told by others that is was a bit of mess for a while, with boats dragging their anchors and colliding, hence some leaving the anchorage in search for a new spot.

Luckily we had re-anchored that morning into a far corner to try to avoid some of the congestion in the anchorage and it had proved to keep Onward out of danger that evening. Proof we don't always lead a carefree life as some people envision for us. You are always on duty when living abroad.

LUMBARDA

On our return trip south, we became so entranced with the views from this anchorage next to Lumbarda, we didn`t move Onward for a week! We almost felt like "locals" when we start to recognize the nightly routines of our shore-based neighbours and fishermen.



We walked 10 minutes into the village of Lumbarda for groceries a few times. Once we walked to Korcula but realized it was a little too far so hopped the bus back.

Always on the lookout for a winter base, we considered wintering at Lumbarda. After making some inquiries, we were surprised to find out only a couple of restaurants stay open in Lumbarda and Korcula over the winter. They truly are tourist towns that all but completely close in the off season. We made a good decision to push on to Montenegro.


CENTRAL CROATIA

In our opinion, the best cruising in Croatia is in the area of Zadar to Split (hence the numerous charter fleets and marinas in this area). Also, for any of Stephanie and Aleks wedding guests who may visit our blog, this is the area closest to Hvar and is the location of their wedding next June.

So back to our time with Stephanie...

We left Korcula at 4:30 a.m. before the winds had time to build during the day as the stretch of water from Korcula to Hvar is known for strong winds and choppy seas. Unfortunately, we still hit a head wind in the last hour of our 7 hour trip and were beaten up but Stephanie slept through it all!

PAKLENI ISLAND



Our first anchorage in the area was at Tarsce on Pakleni Island where we spent the day hiking and swimming. Little did we know that 4 years later we would all be celebrating Stephanie and Aleks wedding day on this very island!

HVAR

The following day we anchored in Hvar town. It's a small anchorage but that doesn't stop large yachts from coming in! It's one of the places "to be seen" in Croatia.



In this photo, you can see our Canadian flag on the stern of Onward and the bow of large yacht right behind us, ready to drop his anchor. The Harbour Master uses a large "looking glass" to ensure anchor chains and anchors are not crossed or snagged (a nasty situation if you have ever been in one).




At Hvar, you can view the harbour from the fort that sits above town. It is reached by a lovely treed switchback path. Stephanie did a little shopping in the old town and sunbathing before having a great dinner aboard Onward and then going into town again for drinks ashore.

TROGIR/SPLIT

We had a 6:00 a.m. departure to arrive at our next port - Trogir/Split. Early morning departures mean we can spend the day touring Trogir and enjoy our last dinner with Stephanie. We were sad to see her leave but excited for her to spend another week on vacation, this time in Greece.

We stopped at Split on our return trip south for several days where we met up with our sister ship!

There were only 6 sailboats built like Onward. A Taswell 43 All Season, she is distinctive with a raised salon with large salon windows, so we were more than surprised to see another one as we anchored in front of the Split town wall.

This "Bay Area" couple aboard "FENG SHUI" (wind and water in Taiwanese) have cruised Croatia for 6 years and originally bought her in Hong Kong in 1996. Bob has visited 160 countries! Barbara, now a Croatian passport holder, gave us a guided tour of Split.




A FEW SITES AROUND SPLIT

Whether you are aboard a sailboat like us, staying in a hotel on land, or aboard one of the many "pocket cruisers" (shown here top-right and bottom-left), or if you are very wealthy, aboard a yacht with a helicopter, there is lots to see in the Split/Hvar area.





We sailed through the Kornati National Park which is a popular sailing destination between Zadar and Split which has some very dramatic and different landscapes.




Another day, we cruised up the Krka River past Sibenik to Skradin and walked through Krka National Park. It's also an easy car trip from Split to the park.

A series of paths and bridges takes you through, over and around a series of waterfalls and small islands as you walk through the park. The trees provided some welcome shade for a couple of hours and the sun streaming through them resulted in wonderful shadows and light on the water in which the fish were swimming. The reflections enabled some of our most interesting photos.

Pictured here is one of the turbines from the hydroelectric plant that began operation in 1895, only 2 days after the hydroelectric plant at Niagara Falls. An interesting fact for us as Niagara Falls is near our home town. The water mills are used in presentations of milling of grain, washing and treading of cloth, weaving of bags and rugs, smithing of horseshoes etc.




Nearby Brac Island is a popular beach destination however due to limited anchoring we bypassed it.

PRIMOSTEN

We enjoyed a memorable day and evening at the very picturesque town Primosten, about 30 km as the crow flies from Split.

While exploring the narrow back alleys of the historic town, we stumbled upon a wine café serving from huge casks to a glass, a ½ or 1 litre café. Then you walked outside and joined in with many others sitting on benches in the shaded alley in what seemed like an impromptu event. Their neighbouring cafe served battered octopus rings served in paper cones. Unfortunately we didn't have our camera to take photos of that scene nor of our dinner entertainment where, along the edge of the town square we sat enjoying pizza and salad and 20 dancers in traditional embroidered dress performed various dances and others sang Croatian folk songs. I was so happy to have stumbled upon both of these events.

DUGI OTOK

As we headed north and approached Zadar, we had our pick of many beautiful anchorages. Zirje, Molat, Dugi Otok, Jezera on Murter Island, Zut on Luka Hiljaca. The islands provided so many secluded, shallow and protected anchorages.

Dugi Otok is one of the large islands barrier islands. Here we noticed several bunkers so well hidden along the coast. Trevor explored the interior of one of the bunkers (I stayed behind thinking it looked a little too ominous for my liking). He returned repeating over and over, "That's the neatest thing I have seen in Croatia!" We were later told they were used by the Yugoslavia naval submarines.



NORTHERN CROATIA

We moved through northern Croatia more quickly planning as the anchorages become more limited and our plans included crossing the Adriatic and having friends visit us in Venice in early August. This area is also more challenging for sailing as the BORA (strong mountain winds) can blow up suddenly and ferociously. We were also starting to get fog and more thunderstorms which can bring sudden strong winds which can be troublesome.

IST ISLAND



We met a lovely Croatian family while anchored at the Island of Ist. They invite us aboard late one afternoon for wine and we have them aboard the following morning for coffee and home-made muffins. We are curious about each other's lives and have lively conversations.

They told us about a hike to the island's hilltop church and the views. We were pleased to find out about it and had some awesome views of the chain of islands to the north.

They shared information with us about sailing in their home country and like many encounters like this that we have, just as we get to know them, it's time to say good bye knowing we will likely never meet up with them again. We have, however, kept in touch each Christmas with emails greetings.



PULA



Who says you have to go to Rome to see a coliseum? Pula is a "jumping off" spot for many sailboats heading to Venice. I must say, it is not attractive at all arriving by sea as it is a large ship port with a natural harbour. Our Croatian friends told us that at one time, it was the 3rd largest ship building port in the world.




It does have the added bonus of an old town with this 1st century coliseum and other ruins from Roman days, nothing to say of the excellent wood-oven pizza lunch we had. Really becomes quite picture perfect!
For travellers, it is also a great spot to catch a ferry from Croatia to Venice.



ROVINJ

We travelled further north along the coast to Rovinj. What a beautiful town. Trevor thinks they must have the best cobblestones of Europe. Funny the things you notice! Smooth, white and rounded, they punctuate the narrow streets and alleys that curve up the hill to the Cathedral of St. Euphemia which stands proud on the hill as the focal point on the egg-shaped peninsula. The bell tower is modeled after St. Mark's in Venice but the most interesting feature to me was the copper statue of St. Euphemia which stands at the top and is a weather vane.



The home and gardens here are all calendar perfect. The vegetable and fruit market was also one of the best we have seen.

We sit for 3 days in an anchorage on the north side of town waiting for a weather window to cross the Adriatic Sea to Venice to meet our good friends Cindy and Allan. Sitting through winds and thunderstorms, at one point we start to violently rock from side to side from sudden side-too waves. Quickly we are securing all moveable objects but don't get to the computer on time. It flies off the navigator's table and onto the floor with the broadband stick ending up on a 45 degree angle. We both look at each other - it has become our most trusted friend giving us up-to-date internet weather conditions for sail planning. Trevor gingerly bends it back and voila, it works! Another rescue at sea!

A blog on Venice will be posted soon.