Voyages North

22 September 2017 | Posted in Seattle
08 September 2017 | Posted at Spencer Spit, San Juan Islands
18 August 2017 | Posted at Spencer Spit, San Juan Islands
17 August 2017 | Olympia
22 August 2016 | posted at Prideaux Haven, Desolation Sound
29 July 2016 | Posted at Hakkai, Fitz Hugh Sound
29 July 2016 | Posted at Hakkai, Fitz Hugh Sound
29 July 2016 | Posted at Hakkai, Fitz Hugh Sound
08 July 2016 | Posted at Ucluelet
08 July 2016 | Posted at Ucluelet

Namu, Fitz Hugh Sound. August 17-18, 2013

24 August 2013 | posted at Shawl Bay
Elsie Hulsizer
Photo: Old buildings at the abandoned cannery town of Namu.

"This is our last season here," Rene, one of Namu's caretakers, and an operator of the marina at Namu, told us. "We're moving the whole thing to Lizzie Cove" (in Lama Passage). She gestured to the moorage floats, potluck shelter, floating homes and floating green houses. "We'll tow it up in September."

It was sad but not surprising. In 1999, when we first visited Namu, the talk on the dock had been of the new investors who planned to turn the old cannery town, abandoned in the 1980s, into a fishing resort. They would expand the moorage, reopen the café, the fuel dock, and the stores, and renovate some buildings for a hotel. But when we returned in 2006, only the moorage float expansion had happened. The buildings now looked beyond renovation and the boardwalk on which we had walked up to a lake to go swimming was fenced off with a sign saying, "danger." When I wrote about Namu in Glaciers, Bears and Totems, I had ended by saying that the air of decay depressed me. And this year I had debated whether to come here at all. But now I was glad we had as it gave us one last chance to see and photograph the old town. Without the marina operators to mark dangerous floorboards, it wouldn't be safe to walk in the town.

As we walked through the town I saw decay everywhere: roofs and stairways collapsing, machinery rusting, a sense of danger with every step (was that plank safe to walk on? Would the roof over our heads collapse?) Interspersed among the decay were gardens. Rene and Pete had created a masterpiece with vines climbing old walls, flowers blooming in old wheelbarrows, green bushes lining streets where workers had once bustled. But it wasn't enough.

Namu garden
Photo: A garden at Namu

"What will happen with Namu?" I asked Rene.
"We don't know. The owners don't tell us anything."

That night winds howled around the marina and the floats rocked in the waves from a strong southerly as rain beat on Osprey's cabin roof. I remembered that the bay is called Whirlwind Bay. It seemed a fitting name. I thought about the fleets of fishing boats that had once moored here. They must have had some tough nights. But still they had come in droves.

The next morning as we got ready to leave, a small fleet of gillnetters came in to take the place of the recreational boats leaving. Some of them hauled their nets on the floats and began working on them. There had always been fishing here. Archeological digs found remains of a fishing economy 10,000 years old. There will still be fishing in the bay's waters, but the last of the facilities for the boats themselves will be gone.

"We'll have to try out their new place in Lizzie Cove," said Steve as we left.

Namu Marina
Photo: The marina at Namu as seen from the Namu dock.
Comments
Vessel Name: Osprey
Vessel Make/Model: Annapolis 44 sloop
Hailing Port: Seattle
Crew: Steve and Elsie Hulsizer (author of Glaciers, Bears and Totems and Voyages to Windward)
About:
Elsie and Steve Hulsizer have sailed northwest waters since arriving in Seattle via sailboat from Boston in 1979. [...]
Extra:
2017: local cruising including South Puget Sound and San Juan Islands 2016:north up West Coast VI, across QC Sound to central BC coast 2015: trip to SE Alaska 2014: Seymour and Belize Inlets through Nakwakto Rapids 2013: SE Alaska and back. 2012: from Seattle up the west coast of Vancouver [...]
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Osprey's Photos -