Photo: Dugout Canoe at Marktosis.
After anchoring in the inlet, we took our dinghy through the rocks into the village of Marktosis, home of the Ahousat band of Nuu-chah-nulths. On the beach in front of the village we found a beautiful dugout canoe, painted in colorful designs. A young man in a fancy T-shirt with a picture of a canoe told us he was part of the "canoe family," the term they use for the crew for dugout canoes, and that he had just returned from a paddle in the canoe to Suquamish (across Puget Sound from Seattle) for the annual canoe races. The canoe holds about 35 paddlers and it took about two weeks to get there. They don't race in the big canoe; smaller racing canoes are transported by truck. He told us proudly that his canoe family won many of the races.
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Photo: the float house, "Fireweed"
If the threatened gale ever blew, we didn't see it in Matilda Inlet, although it did rain during the night. By morning the rain had stopped and we caught the tide up inlet into Clayoquot Sound to Quait Bay. There we took our dinghy around the corner to a little cove where our friends Wayne Adams and Catherine King live on an elaborate floating complex called "Fireweed." Every time we visit them their pink and green float house complex is grander and more beautiful. This year we noticed a new boat, painted pink and green, tucked into a pink and green boathouse.
Wayne and Catherine are both ivory carvers. Their carvings are too expensive for people like us but they've recently started using their carvings to produce molds for candles. We came away with a boxful.
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Photo: Surf on Jenny Reef in Carolina Passage, an entrance to Barkley Sound
Our next passage, Clayoquot Sound to Barkley, is probably the most benign of the open ocean passages. The coast on this stretch is straight and without headlands for the full 20 mile passage and the wind rarely blows as strong there as off Estevan or Brooks. So when we heard there were more southeasterlies predicted for the next several days, we decided to get south to Barkley Sound before the worst of them hit. We left Quait Bay with the ebb, motoring out Clayoquot Sound to the ocean. There we motored in light southeasterlies, tried sailing, then gave up and motored the rest of the way. As off Brooks and Estevan, a strong northbound current set us back. Our decision to leave Clayoquot Sound turned out to be the right one as the southeasterlies were light and the seas less than 2 m.
As we entered Carolina Passage (the northern entrance to Barkley Sound), the seas that had seemed so benign in the ocean tumbled and roared around us. With Jenny Reef on the south, the rocks of Amphitrite on the north and sea foam in between, finding the safe passage can be tricky. But we've learned that the Canadians like to mark the safe passage rather than the dangers so we went close to the buoy off Amphitrite and did fine.
We tied up at the boat basin in view of the Canadian Princess hotel/restaurant/ship and surrounded by fishing boats.
We like Ucluelet more than Tofino, its twin to the north in Clayoquot Sound; it feels real. Tourism is there but it isn't the whole economy in Ucluelet as it is in Tofino. The dock bustles with commercial fishermen painting boats, repairing gear and gossiping about fish. Ashore there are coffee shops, restaurants, a grocery store, a bookstore and a marine supply store. What more do you need?
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