Photo: Quigley Creek cove.

We've come far enough west to get to Hartley Bay that it's now the same distance to Shearwater to go south by the outer channels as it is to return to Princess Royal Channel. And since we came north via Princess Royal, we decide to head south via Laredo Channel. And now there's no rush to get to another wifi connection. We can take 25 mile days instead of 40 so I have time to work on my manuscript at anchor.

Steve also hopes for enough wind in the outer channel to sail. He's in luck. The first day we tack south down Whale Channel to Barnard Bay, sailing into a 25-30 knot inflow wind. The second day we turn the corner into Laredo Channel and get pushed up Surf Inlet to Penn Cove in the same 25-30 knot inflow wind. The cove is billed as a bomb proof anchorage but we discover the wind follows us right into it. Still, it's a beautiful anchorage with lots of little islands and a waterfall at its head.

The third day we're sailing wing and wing down Laredo Channel when Steve hooks a Coho salmon. Hooking it was easy compared to bringing it in. We have to first head into the wind, then drop the jib, then let the main luff. Then I have to lie on my stomach on the deck with the net in my hand while Steve tries to guide the fish on the line into the net. I get it into the net and scoop it up seconds before it shakes off the hook.

We continue our sail down Laredo Channel then motor into the maze of Quigley Creek where we anchor among a group of small islands. It's truly protected in here, a real bomb-proof anchorage. And warm. We have salmon steaks for dinner.