Photo: Model logger's cabin at Billy Proctor's Museum.

In the morning we join a group of boaters around an outside table for a free pancake breakfast. A very empty platter sits in the middle of the table. The place is eerily quiet -- the cook is repairing the generator. A large red jelly fish is caught in the cooling water intake. He cleans it out and brings us a big platter of delicious fluffy pancakes that are worth waiting for.

From Shawl Bay we motor through the islands, passing Echo Bay with its new houses, megayachts, seaplanes and high speed water taxis.

Around the corner from busy Echo Bay is Billy Proctor's Museum, a place made famous by its author's very successful low-key book of stories about this area, Full Moon, Flood Tide. We tie up behind Proctor's fishboat and walk up a rough wooden ramp to a small wooden building full of stuff (there's no other word for it) that Proctor has been collecting all his life: antique bottles, arrowheads, tools, trade beads, etc. His latest addition is a rough hewn logger's shack that he made himself to show how the loggers used to live. I think about how different the atmosphere is here than at Sullivan Bay and Echo Bay. They couldn't be more different than this small museum. The Broughton's are a place of contrast.

We talk to Yvonne Maximchuck, co-author with Billy of Full Moon Flood Tide and an accomplished artist who sells her paintings and other artwork at the marina and we meet Billy who's busy getting ready to go fishing.

We leave Proctor's museum and motor through the islands which seem amazingly deserted considering all the meagayachts in Echo Bay. We anchor in an anchorage between Mound Island and Harbeldon Island. It's a pleasant anchorage with several islets in the middle. Three herons have taken up residence on one of them. They're there when we anchor and still there when we leave the next morning.