So Many Adventures!
30 June 2014 | New Zealand
posted by Coral Bliss Taylor
NZ April - July
At the end of April and beginning of May we had very happy days with Jim's wonderful daughter Victoria who flew in for almost two weeks of sailing fun. After picking her up at the airport, Jim took her up the Auckland Tower for a nice welcome lunch. They then drove up to Opua where Victoria jumped aboard Sonsie, brightening the rainy day with her presence!
The rain quickly cleared and in superb "Indian Summer" weather we spent a night or two in the Bay of Islands, then sailed up past Hole in the Rock at Cape Brett, over to the Old Whaling Station in Whanamumu, overnight to Great Barrier Island to meet the friendly locals and a Maori elder, then west to Mansion House Island (Kawau), past MotuRekaReka (motu=island; rekareka refers to the two wrecks on its shore!). From there we sailing to the wonderful bird island, TiriTiri Matangi with its Takahe's and Pukeko's, Saddlebacks, Tuis, Fantails, NZ parakeets, robins and doves, and best of all, as we rowed our dinghy back to Sonsie at nightfall, the funny squeaky Little Blue Penguins who make their way ashore every evening, calling to each other and chatting about their day.
Only on our last day sailing did the weather start to deteriorate. En route to Auckland in the Hauraki Gulf, in the busy international shipping channel, Victoria and Isabel spied a big tanker up ahead. While we sailed a steady course, we couldn't determine whether this great big vessel was going to pass us to starboard or port as its heading kept changing. It appeared to be planning to pass us first on one side then the other. We called Jim up from the cabin and he promptly hailed them over VHF16 to ask which side they intended to pass us. "We are at anchor station," was their pithy, broken English reply. Our faces red, we heard the silent cackling from all who were listening in to VHF radio at that moment! If we had checked our charts (electronic or paper) we would have noticed that it was in the designated anchoring area alongside the channel!
Once in the Waitemata Harbour the weather remained squally so we hung about by Devonport on the opposite shore. When the going was good we motored over, calling the Harbourmaster on VHF73 when we reached the green cans by the entrance. Pulling into the Viaduct Marina was quite something, having the arms of the pedestrian bridge rise up to allow Sonsie to pass, like royalty into the protected confines of the harbour! We moored up safely, and had a few days exploring Auckland with Victoria before reluctantly saying Goodbye to her wonderful, youthful self and wise smile. What a fine time we had together! She was wonderful company and a great crewmember! We're really glad she managed to prise a few weeks out of her busy schedule to join us as it was a superb way to get to know her better, what with all that sailing, swimming, exploring, hiking, fishing, playing Scrabble and chatting together.
It was eye-opening being the small boat in a mega-yacht marina. Sonsie became the recipient of useful cast-offs from other boats, like armfuls of fantastic charts for NZ and its tropical backyard - Fiji, Vanuatu, and New Caledonia, almost new AGM batteries, and nice spongy cockpit cushions (courtesy of our great friends on Virago!). After leaving the protected confines of the Viaduct, we sailed across the bay to a lovely long sandy beach on Waiheke Island aka Wine Island. The next day who should pull up to anchor right near us but Auckland Seaplanes' Beaver! While his passengers were ashore visiting wineries, we rowed Steve the pilot over to Sonsie for lunch.
May 15 - Haul Out excitement back in Auckland at Orams Marine Yard. While living on a boat on the hard can be a bit tricky (all seacocks are closed so it's up and down the ladder to use the facilities and dispose of washing up slop and the nightsoil buckets) we were mighty pleased we were in a place with such an array of marine services. Best of all was the awesome Kiwi can-do work ethic, sailboat expertise and darn good-natured friendliness. We got super yacht services at very reasonable prices, including a tar-like anti-fouling called Micron 66, a brand new prop shaft, repitched prop, repaired mast base, hull blisters all buzzed away and re-glassed, new instruments for both cockpit & nav station and accompanying transducers at the top of the mast and under the hull for speed and wind. Heaps of other work got done, both by ourselves and by the experts. Jim serviced many items, including the autohelm. As well we took the opportunity to update and replace some equipment as all the chandleries were happy to move stuff off their shelves at decent prices during this, their quiet, winter season.
While on the hard we treated ourselves in the evenings for a stroll along the waterfront to the Tepid Baths, where we could shower and use the cleansing sauna.
May 26 was Splash in day, gently with the swing, and away we went, as if new, to explore more treasures of the Hauraki Gult.
Auckland has more sailboats per capita than anywhere else in the world, we reckon. It's moniker, "The City of Sails" is both beautiful and well-deserved. Even during winter weekends, the Gulf is chock-a-block full of hundreds of hard-at-it racers and dozens of pleasure boaters. Sonsie weaved her way through it all, past the ferries and huge containerships and their tugs, over to some of the quieter islands.
Rotorua Island has recently opened to the public after having been for over 100 years, a Salvation Army drug and alcohol treatment centre. Next door, Pakatoa Island is privately owned, with the remains of a resort that fell out of favour once air travel to the islands (Fiji, Cooks etc) become within reach of most family pocketbooks. We were lucky enough to meet the interesting couple who are the island caretakers, Nigel and Fiona, and enjoy supper with them ashore, learning about their way of life, hopes, dreams and quirks. They were fascinated to hear about our way of life and travels. We hit it off so well, it was as if we were meant to meet and become fast friends within instants. Nigel fell in love with Sonsie and now they have Southern Cross plans of their own!
Coromandel Peninsula was our next stop, with more lovely walks and sightseeing. NZ does a tremendous job maintaining a vast array of tramping trails around the country. The Peninsula is an area renowned for its artists and hippies, the original being potter Barry Bricknell who has, over the decades, built his own narrow-gauge, switchbacky railway up the clay hill on his property, as well as a nature preserve filled with his one-of-a-kind sculptures. For Jim's birthday June 1 we enjoyed delicious cakes in Coromandel town, baked by a young German woman in NZ on a work visa. At another anchorage by a lonely island with more funny squeaking Little Blue Penguins, we went ashore to collect the accumulated plastic garbage. We get so much enjoyment from visiting these out of the way places, it is the least we can do.
We weren't long from Orams before we were back at their dock to fix the heater exhaust. Thus far NZ North Island's winter has been similar in temperature to September in Canada but it was now getting Octobery. It's nice to be able to turn the heat on once in a while. There is also some condensation in the cabin in the mornings, mainly by the metal portholes. When we asked the Orams manager, who has built boats for the polar regions, what to do about this, his reply was a grin and the instruction to "sail to Fiji"!
Colin and Ana came by for a nice cosy supper one evening. They had been in Australia so we had lots of catching up to do. Also, one night while tied to this dock, facing East, a sudden and unexpectedly big storm blew in from that direction, unusual for this city where they mostly experience SouthWesterlies. Trees, unaccustomed to winds from that direction, were knocked down, taking out wires, and seven boats in the area were torn from their moorings and cast ashore. Sonsie bounced around as so did the floating dock to which we were tied. We would have lost our dinghy off the bow in the middle of the night except for the brave actions of a half-dressed Isabel who dashed out to tie down the bouncing beast while rain hard as hail drummed down on her. We recorded a top speed of 68 knots that night on our new instrument.
When all was repaired off we set again, this time returning to Isabel's favourite TiriTiri for a wonderful birding weekend and tour on which we learnt much and saw a couple of the very rare, pipe organ-sounding Kokako's with blue plasticine-looking wattles by their chins.
Once again we had to retrace our steps to Auckland, this time to replace a bust windlass. Honestly, owning a boat means emptying the piggybank, time and again. We dug further down to pay for two nights of Beethoven concerts at the stately Town Hall on Queen St. Wellington's truly brilliant NZ Symphony Orchestra was in town to play all of the Master's Symphonies in a four-night string of concerts. We missed 1, 2 & 3 but caught 4 & 5 then 6 & 7. Symphonies 8 & 9 were sold out. Jim lept from his seat each night bellowing out "Bravo"! as the last note sounded. Fantastic! We met many of the fine musicians in the Hall Bar following the concerts. They enjoyed our enjoyment of their talent and dedication, and our tale of sailing to NZ. On Sunday when we lined up early in hopes of getting any last minute ticket returns, we were called out of line and given half-price premium tickets courtesy of the lead cellist. What joy to hear such beautiful music so many days in a row, in a splendid hall, by such wonderful musicians. We hugged goodbye to some of our favs, including the beautiful flutist, the passionate lead of the Second Violins and our energetic cellist friend as they jumped on their bus for their journey back to Wellington. If ever we get to Wellington we shall take them on a harbour tour on Sonsie !
That weekend also saw us bid adieu to our best mates Ana and Colin from Ithaka. They've put their boat on the hard until early December and are returning to Scotland, to the long days of the Northern Summer and a new grandson, artwork and home. Where we will see them again we do not know, but all look forward to meeting another someday.
As Jean and Alan, the kindly Kiwis on Tuatara, were in town across the bay we took a ferry over and enjoyed a sunny day together exploring North Head and learning about NZ's WWII efforts. They generously shared their knowledge of places to go in Fiji, Vanuatu, New Caledonia and the eastern coast of Australia. Their useful advice and tips will stand us in good measure as we hope to be able to explore the best of those locations. Our plan is to head back to the Tropics and spend the next cyclone season down in Tasmania and NZ's South Island. (NB: Sailor's plans are written in the sand at low tide!)
Amidst all this spending (haul out, maintenance, concerts), we were lucky to find, most serendipitiously, a free shower in the basement of an office tower, which we made full use of, saving the $5.00 daily fee for showers at the Tepid Baths. A small economy!
Windlass replaced, we pulled out from Viaduct Marina for the final time, and motored over to the iconic Rangitoto Island, one of the world's most recent islands, having appeared from the water a scant 600-800 years ago. Anchoring in the very protected Islington Bay in between it and Motutapu, Maori homeland for centuries, we waited out yet another gale. Lately there had been one or two a week, making us anxious to set off voyaging for a warmer clime.
Before saying Au Revoir to the Hauraki Gulf we visited our very special islandkeeper friends over on Pakatoa one last time. Somewhere, some day we must meet up again! Another gale blew in so we tucked in Man O'War Bay on the eastern side of Waiheke Island before a fast sail north in strong winds, 30-45 with gusts up to 52 knots. Past Tutukaka, half way to the Bay of Islands, the wind dropped and we had to motor sail. Whangerai Maritime Radio contacted us to ask us about a large boat fishing in the Protected Zone that a land dweller had noticed and reported. We confirmed that we had seen this vessel, but in the dark, had not been able to see its name.
By 02:00 we were motoring through the dark, starlit passage in between Hole in the Rock and Cape Brett with its lighthouse silently circling, alerting sailors. Truly a very magical memory, with sparkles in the sea.
Once more we were back in Opua, the port of our arrival so many months ago, to make last minute preparations, provision, launder, and complete the necessary check out papers before leaving New Zealand. Guests here since November, we feel privileged to have spent so much time among our Commonwealth cousins in their fair and pleasant land. Thank you for your grand hospitality NZ/Aotearoa! You're sweet as!