Coffs Harbour to Sydney, December 2014
24 December 2014
The allure of Sydney during the Christmas season is too hard to resist. Off we sail down the coast, catching the East Australian Current again and dodging all the Big Ship traffic. The first night out Isabel is sure she sees a flare falling from 30m up, about one or two nautical miles closer inland, but Jim is dubious and despite tacking over to near the possible area, nothing more is noticed.
The following afternoon we tether to a free mooring in Esmeralda Cove on the southern side of tiny Broughton Island. Australia's Broughton Island is a good deal warmer than Canada's! Ashore there is a small beachside community with half a dozen cottages alongside a newly built and incongruous New South Wales volunteer park warden hut. We quickly learn the island politics: NSW wants the beachside community, which dates back 75-odd years, gone so is attempting through various means to elbow them out. Meanwhile the locals want their rights to this little bit of paradise to remain in their families' hands forever. Walking along the clifftop trails to the deserted beaches it's easy to see both sides' viewpoints - and be glad to be just passing through!
The following morning we enjoy a glorious broad reach through smaller offshore islands to anchor for lunch in a very long sandy bay, fittingly enough called Long Beach, in the northern part of Port Stephens. Dolphins come say hello, chased by a top-heavy, camera-wielding, fully laden tourist boat. And it's time for us to pull up the hook and continue on, overnight to Sydney Harbour.
Groggy from our watches we excitedly pass through the headlands into the fabled harbour. What busy, churning waters with countless ferries whizzing by, motorboats of all description, sailboats with one, two or three hulls and all manner of other craft!! It's nothing compared to what we will experience later, but for now we are bright-eyed and alert, heads swivelling in order to keep an eye on the proceedings.
Round the corner and there it is, the Sydney Opera House! Sonsie anchors right alongside this iconic landmark in Farm Cove, site of a long-standing Aboriginal settlement and the first European farm in the colony's infancy.
Our spirits high and it being Christmas Eve, we hop in our dinghy right away and tie up at Man O'War steps to go explore. What is it about a new place that makes the senses tingle? We traipse along willy-nilly, happening upon a most wonderful French bistro buzzing with wine, warm lighting and delicious meals served by bowtied staff. One of the waiters appears classic French, complete with a clearly defined mustache, ample chest and ramrod posture. We loved watching him, charmed by his style. Surprisingly he turns out to be Maori from NZ/Aotearoa!
All in all the evening is a great celebration of our arrival and of Christmas!