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Kusadasi to Coffs Harbour
Fishing on Joy!
12/04/2014, Cane Garden Bay, Tortola BVIs

On Monday Ange, Steve & Susie walked to White Bay - a couple of very steep hills away from Great Harbour. It was a great walk with plenty to see - birds, goats, mongoose & of course the beautiful bay itself from high - just lovely. We had a water at the famous "Soggy Dollar Bar" (named because people swim in from their boats & their money gets wet!) & then walked back to Great Harbour. It was tops to get some exercise!
Tuesday the guys finished their dive course & we celebrated on Pannikin with dinner & drinks.
Wednesday Amaris headed to Cane Garden Bay & Pannikin & Joy dropped anchor at Green Cay off Jost Van Dyke - the quintessential Caribbean anchorage - beautiful clear blue water & a small sand island with palm trees.
Thursday we sailed across to Cane Garden Bay & anchored south of all the mooring buoys. Pannikin went for a wander into the village & did some sheet & towel washing and before we knew it Happy Hour was upon us. Beers at Tony's Welcome Bar with the crews from Joy, Amaris & Easy Rider. We had Jeremy & Susie over for burgers for dinner - Yum! Steve is doing a great job making bread & rolls.
Friday was a sleep in as it poured with rain all morning. We headed out of the bay at around midday on Joy & went fishing over Kingfish Banks about 6 miles north. It was our first sail on Joy & we totally loved it. We have to admit we are a touch envious (or maybe lots!). Fishing was pretty successful - 2 mackerel worth keeping & plenty of other strikes including a barracuda & ½ a tuna (again the victim to something much bigger!). We had a lovely taco & fish dinner on board Amaris with plenty of laughs thanks to Dave from Easy Rider.
Today we are heading to Soper's Hole to refill dive tanks & then probably onto Norman or Peter Island.
Sorry for the boring blog - we are just enjoying the wonderful BVIs. We really love it here!

18/04/2014 | Kath
Hi Steve & Ange,

Steve just wanted to say many happy belated birthday wishes. by looking what was is the tender I guess you would have had a good one. Your photos and blogs are amazing. That is, of course, when I'm too green to go in and check them out. Happy safe sailing, Kath
We Be Divin'
06/04/2014, Great Harbour, Jost Van Dyke BVIs

Thursday was another trip into Road Town on Pannikin. Jeremy & Steven (from Amaris) have decided to do their Open Water Diver PADI course on Jost Van Dyke. We picked up a course manual at "We Be Divin" scuba shop near Village Cay Marina, visited Digicel again & also a couple of groceries. Later that night a couple of drinks on Pannikin.
Friday our plan was to head to Cane Garden Bay on western Tortola for the night. Just was we were pulling up anchor, the mizzen sail on Joy came tumbling down to the deck. The halyard had snapped - so up the mast Jeremy went. Not a nice day for it either... lots of strong wind gusts & driving rain every 5 minutes or so. The last couple of days had been fairly wet. Finally a new halyard was run & the mizzen sail was back up where it should be. Amaris also had drama - dragging anchor & getting caught up on a nearby mooring ball - all was sorted & well in the end. Our sail to Cane Garden Bay was a wet & cold one, but still enjoyable. The BVI Spring Regatta is on at the moment, so there is always plenty of yachts racing each day. They were out in full on Friday. When we reached the anchorage it was really rolly due to the northerly swell so we ended up anchoring in Little Harbour (Garner Bay) on Jost Van Dyke. Steven went north to Trellis Bay to collect Sean from the airport - will see them again soon. A quiet night in a lovely little bay.
Saturday Steve & I had a great walk around Little Harbour. Up the very steep hill to the top of the island where the views were great. We then walked around to the western side of the bay & had a look at "Sidney's Peace & Love Restaurant" where we may end up later on! We then upped anchor & headed back to Cane Garden Bay where there were some great waves on the point yesterday. Steve went for a surf & Ange wandered around the street (only one!) for an hour. We headed back to Jeremy & Susie who were now anchored around at Great Harbour on Jost Van Dyke ready for the diving course on Sunday. Lots & lots of boats here & we had no luck anchoring. Our anchor dragged every time, so we ended up going back to Little Harbour. No problem anchoring here. Just before sundown Amaris moored in front of us & we popped across to Sidney's for Happy Hour. This was great - a self service bar! Just get what you want & write it down in the book on the bar! Certain drinks were 2 for 1 in Happy Hour, so we had a beer & Steven and Sean had Painkillers. It was a nice hour - there were plenty of cruisers there. Out host, Strawberry, was a lovely lady too. We went back to Amaris for a glass of champagne & a quick chat before dinner & bed.
Today we tried our luck again at anchoring in Great Harbour. We managed to find a great spot close to the beach & had no problem anchoring this time. We had a quick walk around town & called in to say Hi to Jeremy & Steven doing their course at Jost Van Dyke scuba. We had another good look at Foxy's Bar & got to speak to the famous man himself! He knew so much about Australia (his wife is Aussie) & it was great to talk to him. It's a nice spot here - plenty of cruisers running around in their dinghy's to the shore, swimming & generally having a good time. We'll wait to see how loud Foxy's gets tonight!

Photo - looking down on Little Harbour.

Catching Up!
02/04/2014, Great Harbour, Peter Island BVIs

Happy Birthday Tim I for yesterday - we hope it was a good one!
We haven't been doing a lot over the past week.... spent 3 nights at Hansen Bay (Round Bay) in St John dodging big swell & strong winds. Did some odd jobs on Pannikin & lots of snorkelling. Then came over to the BVIs & met up with Jeremy & Susie at Great Harbour on Peter Island. Steve on catamaran Amaris is here also - Sean is back in the US for a little while. Monday we all piled on board Pannikin & sailed across to Road Town, Tortola to do groceries, beer shopping & top up our internet. Had a great lunch & lots of walking which is always good.
Yesterday spent the day still trying to fix Mr Slappy's many leaks. Hopefully with Jeremy's expertise & many great tools we will see a difference now.
Today Steve & Jeremy are working on Joy's outboard motor - always jobs to do! I think it might be a chook on the BBQ & drinks tonight!

Photo - 15 cartons of beer, 1 carton of cider & 3 cartons of wine!!! (All Jeremy's of course!).

03/04/2014 | dave and chrissy
Now I know why mr slappy got fixed, so the haul of beer didn't go down.
04/04/2014 | Rick & Nory
Good to see that your keeping up your fluid intake, the ocean can be a dry place. Keep up the good work. All the best.
Back In The USVIs
27/03/2014, Charlotte Amalie

As planned we stayed Sunday at Esperanza, doing odd jobs, cleaning, swimming & Steve had a couple of surfs on his new board which he says is excellent - good news!
Monday we had a long walk on the beach beside Esperanza around Sun Bay - lovely walk & lovely water in the bay. This is a popular camping spot too... it was great to see tents pitched under the palm trees. We headed out of Esperanza & along the coast to find a new anchorage. We only went a couple of miles to an anchorage outside Puerto Mosquito - a phosphorescent bay. This Mosquito Biobay is renowned for the density of bioluminescent plankton in its waters so we decided to anchor here & wait for dark before we went into the bay to have a look at the colour. Waited until about 8.30pm then took Mr Slappy up into the bay. Once you enter the bay no motors are allowed so we had to row the last 100 metres or so. There were definitely green sparkles in the water, but not as much as we had hoped! It was fun fluffing around for 30 minutes or so anyway watching the sparkles off the oars & the outboard as we rowed around. Back to Pannikin then to discover our anchorage had become very rolly. We decided to head up the coast to Ensenada Honda a really large bay that is secure in all weather conditions. It took us about one & half hours to motor up there, but was well worth it. This is the first anchorage in a very long time where Pannikin has not been affected by swell of some kind. It is a lovely spot.
Tuesday we stayed at Ensenada Honda - we had the whole bay to ourselves - it is very tranquil & remote. Lots of jobs were done - cleaning & changing water maker filters, defrosting the fridge, cleaning & mopping Pannikin and a general tidy up under the lounge where things always get stashed for want of a better place to stow them and again trying to find leaks in Mr Slappy. We are having not much luck in getting him to stay pumped up for long periods of time. Burgers for dinner with Steve's homemade buns - they are becoming a favourite! Especially when we have found canned beetroot!
Wednesday we were up early & heading out of Ensenada Honda at 8am back to St Thomas. We had a great sail arriving at the anchorage off Crown Bay Marina at about 1pm. Ange managed to polish nearly all the stainless steel on the way - another good job almost out of the way. Caught 3 barracuda on our way across! We took Mr Slappy across to the marina & did some laundry... it's nice not having to do sheets & towels by hand all the time! We spent the afternoon having a swim & watching the two huge cruise ships tied alongside the wharf preparing to leave. One was of the "Princess Line" like The Love Boat & they played the TV music as they left - it was pretty cool.
Today we are stocking up on groceries & drinks & will probably head to an anchorage somewhere on the west coast of St John as the wind is predicted to blow from the ENE at 25 knots for the next day or two. Then onto the BVIs again for a while.

30/03/2014 | Lesley Sweeney
Hi there, We are safely home after a fantastic 5 weeks away. Thanks once again for having us on board Pannikin. We had an amazing time and it was so good to see you both. Please say hi to Jeremy and Susie for me. I was sorry we missed them Take care of each other. Lots of love from your Mum and your favourite Mother-in Law xxx
23/03/2014, Esperanza

Friday we motored the 3 miles south to Puerto Del Rey marina & anchored in the very small anchorage near the marina mouth. There was a Norwegian flagged yacht & a local yacht there already & with us there it was tight!. We had a cuppa while we waited for the Boat Show to open then took Mr Slappy into the marina & tied up at one of the pontoons. As we walked through the marina (which is huge!) it became apparent that the Boat Show was nowhere near ready. Tents were up but no equipment or displays where under them. Exhibitors hadn't set up their displays either. Marina staff were whizzing every which way (fast) on golf carts trying to get stuff set up. However the ticket office was open & selling entrance tickets to the public! We didn't stay long... found an ATM & bought some fresh bread from the marina supermarket & went back to Pannikin. We didn't bother staying - it was mostly stink boat stuff which doesn't really excite us. It would have been good to see the equipment exhibitions etc though. Instead we sailed to the anchorage on the western side of Vieques (like Culebra part of Puerto Rico) where we anchored for the night tucked between two reefs. As we anchored a huge ray leap out of the water then continued on his way. We also saw a huge turtle. Over beers on Friday night we had THE TALK..... although we haven't reached our intended destinations - Dominican Republic & possibly Cuba we have decided it is time to turn around & start heading east, then south back down the Caribbean island chain. We also didn't get to the south & west coasts of Puerto Rico as intended, but after experiencing the bash to windward to get east today we decided that we would prefer to spend some more time in the BVIs, which we love rather that spending days sailing along Puerto Rico coasts & then weeks bashing into the wind to get back east. We know you can't get to see everything, but still feel as though we've failed in our original plan. Weather plays such a major role in where we go & we can't control that! So back to the BVIs & hopefully catch up with Jeremy & Susie before we head south.
Saturday we sailed to the picturesque anchorage off the lovely village of Esperanza on the south coast of Vieques. After anchoring & a late, late lunch we took Mr Slappy to shore & had a great wander around. Plenty of little bars & restaurants here & lots of tourists on holidays, but it is still a small & intimate town. It has a lovely beach to walk along as well. We found a small supermarket where we bought a few fresh vegies, cheese, milk etc to keep us going for a few more days. We had swims & read on Pannikin during the afternoon then dinner & an episode of 'Dexter' before bed.
We had anchor problems last night.... the stern anchor we had out to stop us rolling in the swell dragged... so not much sleep & lots of fluffing about early in the morning. We are going to stay here again today & have a relax. Steve also wants to play with his new board!!!!!

25/03/2014 | andrew
a hammock on a racey boat like Pannikin? now I've seen everything!
25/03/2014 | dave and chrissy
steve with a beer in the hammock , is that after the board got a run or before? or is that breakfast. I see life is still tough, I took today off work in memory of you guys, enjoy
dave and chrissy
27/03/2014 | Francis Pantus
What an excellent idea! I really hope Chris doesn't see this, she'll want one too.
Chris and Francis
San Juan
20/03/2014, Isleta Marina, Fajardo

We've had a great day - they don't happen very often when you're on a mission to get things & have never been to where you are going! We hired a car (a very old Mitsubishi Lancer) from "Island Of The World Car Rental" this morning & after all the paperwork we headed off to San Juan at 8.30am. Using the Google Maps & GPS guide was awesome... we were parked right in Old San Juan and hour & 20 minutes later, with no hassles. We had a good walk around, checked out the forts & the old buildings & watched the school kids flying their kites out on the point. Unfortunately 2 cruise ships were in so we spent a lot of time dodging American couples who seemed all to be yelling at each other - aren't they supposed to be on holiday? We popped into a few shops & Steve scored at Puerto Rico T shirt. After lunch (burgers again!) we Googled some surf shops & saw that there were a couple close by. Into the trusty Lancer again & following Google maps & the nice GPS lady we found the first one in about 10 minutes. It had lots of boards (second hand & new) at a good price. Steve was just about to buy a board as it was pretty much what he wanted (only covered in hibiscus flowers & grey writing!) when the owner of the shop walked in & offered him the exact board he wanted - but it had a SOLD sign on it. The owner wasn't worried about that & said Steve could have it no problems. It came with fins, a leg rope & a free block of wax. Very happy Steve! Getting it in the Lancer was a bit of a problem... had to slide it between front & back seats... no folding rear seats in this baby... I ended up sitting in the back & being chauffeured home. We stopped along the strip at Condado & had a walk for an hour checking out all the tourists & hotels. Back to Fajardo using the GPS lady again - on the way there was a big stall selling hammocks on the side of the road & Steve scored a nice hammock. What a top day! It's nice when things work out & you have a great day!
Heading off south tomorrow I think.... there is a boat show on at Puerto Del Rey Marina south of us somewhere starting tomorrow. Don't know where we'd anchor or get ashore though?

22/03/2014 | dave and chrissy
glad to see you guys are still having a great time. New board for steve, send some surf shots ange so we can check out his new euro style, ha.
stay safe and we will keep following

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