SV Panta Rhei Retirement Trip

Vessel Name: Panta Rhei
Vessel Make/Model: Able Apogee 50
Hailing Port: Seattle
Crew: Larry and Karen
Social:
15 August 2017 | Anan Bear Observatory
19 July 2017 | Petersburg, AK
17 June 2017 | Hoonah, AK
03 June 2017 | Seward AK
03 June 2017 | Denali
25 April 2017 | Seward AK
23 March 2017 | Seward, AK
11 March 2017 | Seward, AK
23 January 2017 | Seward AK
06 December 2016 | Seward AK
12 November 2016 | Seward Alaska
14 October 2016 | Valdez, AK
21 September 2016
05 August 2016 | Seward, AK
26 July 2016 | Whittier, AK
19 July 2016 | Valdez, Alaska
05 July 2016 | Seward, Alaska
04 July 2016 | Nuka Island, Home Cove, Alaska
02 July 2016 | Red Fox Bay on Afognak Island, Alaska
Recent Blog Posts
15 August 2017 | Anan Bear Observatory

A Grizzly Bear damaged our dinghy

We were visiting the Anan Bear Observatory south of Wrangell. It is one of the best places to visit in all of SE Alaska BECAUSE it has bears. But (as we learned) there is a dark side to this bear concentration. And of course, there is a story to tell.

19 July 2017 | Petersburg, AK

Moving On

"No matter where you go, there you are" (unknown reference). By now we have been there and done that. Most recently that included Cannery Cove on Admiralty Island. The photo shows the quiet grandeur of the setting with Ron and Suzie's boat SV Tango in the foreground. It has been like that for the last [...]

17 June 2017 | Hoonah, AK

We are in Hoonah, SE Alaska now

We got something resembling a high pressure ridge so we moved expeditously across the Gulf of Alaska. The crossing took three days and weather stayed as forecast. That was a very good thing. The weather changes in the far north far more rapidly and dramatically than we ever experienced in the more southern [...]

03 June 2017 | Seward AK

Crossing the Gulf of Alaska

We are still in Seward, AK. Now that spring has come, why not start south?

03 June 2017 | Denali

Denali in the windscreen

Seeing Denali isn't so easy. There are only a few days a year that have clear skies over the mountain. Fortunately, we got one. Luck, we have it. It was CAVU.

25 April 2017 | Seward AK

Spring has arrived

It warmed up to about freezing at night so we hauled out to clean and paint the bottom of the boat. It's a task we haven't had the facilities to accomplish for about 2.5 years. Now we are back in the water. Yay!

A Grizzly Bear damaged our dinghy

15 August 2017 | Anan Bear Observatory
Larry Nelson
We were visiting the Anan Bear Observatory south of Wrangell. It is one of the best places to visit in all of SE Alaska BECAUSE it has bears. But (as we learned) there is a dark side to this bear concentration. And of course, there is a story to tell.

Anchoring in front of Anan is problematic. The depth drops off steeply from a sand bar at the river entrance forcing an anchored boat to anchor in sand on the edge. If the wind or tide turns while you are bear viewing, the boat can peel off the edge of the slope and the boat drifts away. Boats still anchor there, some with a stern anchor to maintain orientation and some just depend on a prevailing wind onshore. That is called the "crossed finger" approach. We anchored in "fools inlet", about 5 nm away from Anan and took our high speed dinghy to Anan. We pulled our dinghy up on the beach (using the wheels) while we hiked to the bear observatory. There are indeed bears everywhere and the river is chock-a-block full of spawning salmon.

The ranger found us at the observatory. Your dinghy is being destroyed by a Grizzly, he said. Turns out they know the "name" of this Grizzly. She likes the way dinghies bounce when she jumps on them. He would advise when she is done playing and we can go get our dinghy.

There was a commercial outfitter there with a jet boat and she offered to give us a ride to our sailboat and that we could use her canoe to rescue our dinghy. That was really helpful. The photo shows that we brought Panta Rhei to the float and then took her canoe ashore. Two of the flotation chambers still held air, so the dinghy floats enough to tow it to our boat. The front chamber has 5 rips in it. We are hopeful we can patch them, though it is not accomplished yet.

We are in Ketchikan now where it is raining. No surprise there. We have internet and power and coffee so we are quite happy. The rain has to stop before we can patch our dinghy and that is not likely in Ketchikan. But someday ... Until then we have our story to tell

Moving On

19 July 2017 | Petersburg, AK
Larry Nelson
"No matter where you go, there you are" (unknown reference). By now we have been there and done that. Most recently that included Cannery Cove on Admiralty Island. The photo shows the quiet grandeur of the setting with Ron and Suzie's boat SV Tango in the foreground. It has been like that for the last month. It's all grand and it's all different even though it is mostly just new arrangements of trees, rocks and water and snow and ice. There are a few take home messages though.

One message is from Fish and Game. They are busy watching this seemingly endless wilderness lest some outsider might take fish home. We were checked by a nice agent in Hoonah (in a float plane!) who asked a few simple questions while we sat next to a bucket of fresh caught crab. Did we know our limit? Turns out it is only 3 unless you are an alaska resident. Then it is 20! And the crab pot we bought in Anchorage wasn't built quite right for Alaska. Really?

And halibut, ... just one a day with maximum two in possession unless you are an Alaska resident. If the fish is in the freezer at home, no limit unless that freezer is on the boat (like ours is) then the limit applies. Fish and Game checked us again on the dock in Petersburg. Turns out they didn't like the details of the crab pots that we bought in Hoonah. That is Hoonah, ALASKA. They were the same crab pots that were inspected and accepted when we were last checked in Hoonah (minus the one from Anchorage which I disposed of)

But we're good because we are Alaska residents!

Get the message?

We are in Hoonah, SE Alaska now

17 June 2017 | Hoonah, AK
Larry Nelson
We got something resembling a high pressure ridge so we moved expeditously across the Gulf of Alaska. The crossing took three days and weather stayed as forecast. That was a very good thing. The weather changes in the far north far more rapidly and dramatically than we ever experienced in the more southern latitudes. We arrived at Elfin Cove at midnight. Who would think to arrive at a town with virtually no lights and in the wilderness at midnight? Only Panta Rhei. But we actually made it to the dock without running aground or hitting anyone. Wonders never cease. We spoke of "Alaska twilight" but this night was overcast and dark. That is yet another expression of "negative luck" which is a real but little reported on phenomenon. And incidentally, Cross Sound was rough.

We rested and then moved south to Baranof Warm Springs where we met Ron and Suzie Bauman (SV Tango). This is an amazing place with one of the best hot pools in Alaska.

Then we headed north again to enter Glacier Bay National Park. Along the way we saw lots of bubble feeding humpback whales and caught fresh dungenous crab. The picture shows our dungenous crab prepared for cooking and eating. It was soooo goooood.

SE Alaska is a wonderland with smooth water and protected anchorages and marinas. We are so glad to have finished our crossing of the Gulf of Alaska.

Crossing the Gulf of Alaska

03 June 2017 | Seward AK
Larry Nelson
We are still in Seward, AK. Now that spring has come, why not start south?

Our difficulty is shown in the picture above. In this picture red shows waves above 2 meters. Redder signifies higher. Not shown, but significant, are the headwinds. These conditions arise from a continuing string of low pressure centers that are crossing the Gulf of Alaska one after another. Where is a high pressure center when you need one?

They tell us that high pressure does come. Maybe next year?

So here we sit at the dock. We've made our Costco run, and road tripped to Denali (near Talkeetna, AK). Patience is needed but is running short.

Meanwhile, our friends Ron and Suzie on SV Tango are crossing Dixson Entrance in 2 Meter seas because they couldn't wait more than a day!

Denali in the windscreen

03 June 2017 | Denali
Larry Nelson
Seeing Denali isn't so easy. There are only a few days a year that have clear skies over the mountain. Fortunately, we got one. Luck, we have it. It was CAVU.

Our venue for this expedition was a normally aspirated C206 floatplane flying out of Talkeetna, fish lake. Our peak altitude was just a little over 8000 feet which put us down among the peaks surrounding the mountain. That's a thrilling experience that is best experienced with an experienced pilot on a calm day. We flew over the glacier landing airport that climbers use and over the Don Sheldon amphitheater where there is a tiny hut built on a peak. And we flew directly toward the "Mooses Tooth" named after a pizza restaurant in Anchorage (or maybe the other way around!).

Talkeetna featured a hut serving home made ice cream. You could watch it churn. Ohhhhh it was GOOD. Also, the day was sunny and warm. How often does that happen in Talkeetna?

The picture shows the Summit of Denali wayyyyy above us.

Spring has arrived

25 April 2017 | Seward AK
Larry Nelson
It warmed up to about freezing at night so we hauled out to clean and paint the bottom of the boat. It's a task we haven't had the facilities to accomplish for about 2.5 years. Now we are back in the water. Yay!

The warming is happening throughout Alaska, including Alyeska (our ski area). So yesterday was the close of the season. They throw a party for the season pass holders and employees. They run the lifts for us only. The snow was "corn", which is soft and squishy bits of ice that is SOOOOO nice to ski on. We felt like superman/superwoman. And it was warm. The employees at the resort are mostly young "ski bums" and they are a FUN group. They are way younger than we are. The bottom of the lift featured a tub of drinks (including beer!). There were social groups of skiers enjoying each other and the outdoors "hanging out". They dressed for spring including sequimed dresses on the girls and shorts on the guys. Cold doesn't seem to be an issue if you are young! Everyone was smiling and the groups were welcoming, even to us! There was an excessive amount of "big air" in the skiing including some pro skiers that can do things that cannot be done.

And I was HOT. The spring snow had me skiing bump runs and keeping up with youngsters. Yup, true. I really was enjoying this.

Too soon the day ended and with it, the season. Karen and I skied 34 days and over 400,000 vertical feet. Compared to our young friends, we're "pikers". Considering that at the beginning of the season we weren't sure we could even ski, we think that is pretty good.
Panta Rhei's Photos - Main
22 Photos
Created 1 October 2013
Pictures of South Island NZ and the Milford Track
68 Photos
Created 2 March 2013
Blackwater cave exploring in NZ
18 Photos
Created 20 December 2012
Travel from the Marquesas to Rangiroa to Papette
104 Photos
Created 6 June 2012
Pics from the crossing and after arrival in the marquesas
24 Photos
Created 10 May 2012
Karen and Larry exploring Santa Cruz, Isla Isabella, and San Cristobal Islands
30 Photos
Created 3 April 2012
pictures from a passage aboard SV Talofa as line handlers
80 Photos
Created 17 March 2012
accumulated pictures of the SV Safety Cat rescue and repair
63 Photos
Created 7 July 2011
swimming with a whale shark in clear warm water
9 Photos
Created 12 June 2011
Karen and Larry hike up a desert canyon in Mexico
43 Photos
Created 22 May 2011
pictures of Karen at the doctor, shopping in Mazatlan, and work on the boat in the yard
26 Photos
Created 5 April 2011
Pictures of San Blas and Isla Isabella
41 Photos
Created 30 March 2011
pictures of the trip up a jungle river to a crocodile farm and to a spring which is the source of all San Blas water
72 Photos
Created 28 March 2011
pictures of karen's medical care for her arm injury while in San Blas
16 Photos
Created 27 March 2011
Day trip from La Cruz to Yualapa by bus and panga
44 Photos
Created 25 March 2011
Pictures of our day trip to La Penita
10 Photos
Created 18 March 2011
cleaning boat bottoms and other recent activities
23 Photos
Created 5 March 2011
bob and Larry went looking for a hose from a store next to a "Table Dance" entertainment center
9 Photos
Created 22 February 2011
A day at the beach with exotic drinks and then north to Lazaro Cardenas
6 Photos
Created 11 February 2011
Before and after pictures of a friends boat underbody showing the growth that happens in a short time in Zihuatanejo
12 Photos
Created 8 February 2011
pictures from Bahia Santiago to Ziahuatanejo including Ixtapa
40 Photos
Created 1 February 2011
Sailfest pictures
21 Photos
Created 1 February 2011
A trip with Jake and Sharon up the jungle river in Tenacatita
11 Photos
Created 16 December 2010
Scenes from our stay in Paradise Village in Puerto Vallarta
19 Photos
Created 7 December 2010
Scenes from Paul Nelson's visit in Paradise Village and in Puerto Vallarta including procession for Lady of Guadalupe
21 Photos
Created 7 December 2010
hike up the river and float trip down it
17 Photos
Created 4 December 2010
Arrival in the south part of Mexico and beginning of the cruising lifestyle
21 Photos
Created 23 November 2010
warmer weather experiences
21 Photos
Created 15 November 2010
stop in san francisco at at Sea Ranch CA to visit Grace and Bob Carter
44 Photos
Created 11 October 2010
pictures from preparing and leaving Seattle to Ft Bragg CA
16 Photos
Created 30 September 2010
weather faxes that show the weather in the Pacific Ocean while we are safe in port in Newport Oregon
1 Photo
Created 26 September 2010
A few pics of Panta Rhei out of the water
11 Photos
Created 6 September 2010
Sherry and Bob took a few pictures and shared them with us.
34 Photos
Created 30 July 2010
travel from Petersburg to Thorne Bay with stop at Anan Bear Observatory
56 Photos
Created 19 July 2010
Candidates for most beautiful places in the world
78 Photos
Created 12 July 2010
bob and Sherry took pictures of Panta Rhei and shared them with us.
29 Photos
Created 12 July 2010
great fishing and crabbing with good weather
23 Photos
Created 1 July 2010
65 Photos
Created 25 June 2010
64 Photos
Created 24 June 2010
Pelican scenes then travel up Lisianski Inlet to Elfin Cove, Inian Bay, Dundas Bay
46 Photos
Created 18 June 2010
trip up lisianski inlet to Elfin Cove, Inian Island, and Dundas Bay
14 Photos
Created 18 June 2010
tight passages that kayakers would love and an abandoned town (Chichagof)
47 Photos
Created 12 June 2010
transit of Lisianski Strait enroute to Pelican
10 Photos
Created 11 June 2010
Around the outside of Baranof Island and some caveing in el capitan passage
37 Photos | 1 Sub-Album
Created 2 June 2010
Prince of Wales Island and enroute
13 Photos
Created 21 May 2010
photos of rudder damage from the log we hit
8 Photos
Created 17 May 2010
32 Photos
Created 15 May 2010
50 Photos
Created 10 May 2010
springtime photos of the inside passage
12 Photos
Created 28 April 2010

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