SV Panta Rhei Retirement Trip

Vessel Name: Panta Rhei
Vessel Make/Model: Able Apogee 50
Hailing Port: Seattle
Crew: Larry and Karen
01 July 2016 | Geographic Harbor
01 July 2016 | Geographic Harbor, Alaska
30 June 2016 | Port Wrangell, Alaska
30 June 2016 | Port Wrangell, Alaska (not to be confused with Wrangell, Alaska)
27 June 2016 | Chignik, Alaska, USA
23 June 2016 | Larry Nelson
20 June 2016 | King Cove Alaska
14 June 2016 | Dutch Harbor
10 June 2016 | Dutch Harbor, Alaska, USA
09 June 2016 | On passage from Majuro, Marshall Islands to Dutch Harbor, Alaska
09 June 2016 | On passage from Majuro, Marshall Islands to Dutch Harbor, Alaska
07 June 2016 | On passage from Majuro, Marshall Islands to Dutch Harbor, Alaska
07 June 2016 | On passage from Majuro, Marshall Islands to Dutch Harbor, Alaska
07 June 2016 | On passage from Majuro, Marshall Islands to Dutch Harbor, Alaska
05 June 2016 | On passage from Majuro, Marshall Islands to Dutch Harbor, Alaska
04 June 2016 | On passage from Majuro, Marshall Islands to Dutch Harbor, Alaska
04 June 2016 | On passage from Majuro, Marshall Islands to Dutch Harbor, Alaska
03 June 2016 | On passage from Majuro, Marshall Islands to Dutch Harbor, Alaska
02 June 2016 | On passage from Majuro, Marshall Islands to Dutch Harbor, Alaska
01 June 2016 | On passage from Majuro, Marshall Islands to Dutch Harbor, Alaska
Recent Blog Posts
01 July 2016 | Geographic Harbor

Bear on the beach

It is a big brown one with a hump on its back. Watching it move slowly is a study in grace. It came down a small stream and browsed the beach (it is low tide) and then headed back up the stream. There is brush on the hillside so he disappeared.

01 July 2016 | Geographic Harbor, Alaska

Arrived Geographic Harbor

We have arrived in Geographic Harbor (58d5.9mN 154d35.4mW). It has it all. Waterfalls, mountains, snow capped peaks, green alder brush, steep steep hillsides, narrow waterways, islands, calm wind, partial overcast but high so mountains are in full view. But, no bears yet. We arrived at 7:50 am. Their [...]

30 June 2016 | Port Wrangell, Alaska

Change of Plans

Our plans got a little adjusted this morning. We were up at 5 am planning a 100 mile passage to Geographic Harbor. But the wind in the anchorage is not at all representative of the wind on the passage. We got about an hour out of the anchorage, enough to move out of the shelter of islands and rocks, [...]

30 June 2016 | Port Wrangell, Alaska (not to be confused with Wrangell, Alaska)

Arrived Port Wrangell

The pilot at Fish and Game (at the weir we visited) recommended this anchorage. Good suggestion! There is no swell (and there was plenty enroute) and we are anchored next to the most beautiful waterfall. Dahl Porpoises greeted us at the inlet entrance. They are very fast critters. We are hoping to see [...]

27 June 2016 | Chignik, Alaska, USA

Chignik is beautiful

Chignik is a surprise. It is drop dead georgous. No one told us. It is a place not to be missed.

23 June 2016 | Larry Nelson

We are experiencing "Salmon Abundance"

Last night we had the second fillet of the Sockeye Salmon which we shared with our new neighbors Ginger and Peter from SV Irene. They are home ported in Seattle also. We are both at the transient dock in Sand Point in the Schumigen Islands. And we are both waiting to go north. It turns out that even [...]

Bear on the beach

01 July 2016 | Geographic Harbor
Larry
It is a big brown one with a hump on its back. Watching it move slowly is a study in grace. It came down a small stream and browsed the beach (it is low tide) and then headed back up the stream. There is brush on the hillside so he disappeared.

There will be more, we are told.

Now for breakfast.

Where is that fishing pole?

Larry

Arrived Geographic Harbor

01 July 2016 | Geographic Harbor, Alaska
Larry
We have arrived in Geographic Harbor (58d5.9mN 154d35.4mW). It has it all. Waterfalls, mountains, snow capped peaks, green alder brush, steep steep hillsides, narrow waterways, islands, calm wind, partial overcast but high so mountains are in full view. But, no bears yet. We arrived at 7:50 am. Their alarms might not have gone off yet.

It feels great to stop. Yup. Engine off. Minimal boat motion. Ohhhh. Nirvana.

We had a strong current against us the whole way. The current data on the map says it can't be so. But it is so and that made the trip a lot longer. But one of us got to sleep and that made the time pass a little quicker when it was our turn.

Our Apple iPhone and Apple iPad decided to revert to a settings mode that locks us out of them until we have internet and can log in to iTunes (or something, since we haven't accomplished it yet). My iPad has my back up gps map. I no longer have a back up. The new surface pro computer that I bought in Honolulu is all we have for navigation. It's working fine, but now I'm running with no back up. Karen's computer has the map, but the ports are not working so I can't hook up the gps. Maybe I could get the map going and plot positions manually. Maybe.

So we are back to plan A, get lucky. We can fix this when we get to Seward. That's IF we get to Seward.

Meanwhile we are looking for bears and fishing. That's what there is to do here.

Pics from Mapcarta

Change of Plans

30 June 2016 | Port Wrangell, Alaska
Larry
Our plans got a little adjusted this morning. We were up at 5 am planning a 100 mile passage to Geographic Harbor. But the wind in the anchorage is not at all representative of the wind on the passage. We got about an hour out of the anchorage, enough to move out of the shelter of islands and rocks, and found just what we left yesterday. Strong headwinds and big seas. So, we turned around. We came back to our anchorage, slept in a little, fixed a big breakfast, and studied weather a little more. It turns out that winds are easing. Letting another 9 hours go by will make all the difference. So we will leave at 3 pm and run all night. In the morning we will arrive in Geographic Harbor. That's the new plan. The low that was driving our wind just needs a little more time to leave (or at least move further away from) the area. And we could not possibly be in a nicer place to loiter.

We had friends on SV Irene (Ginger and Peter) go by the inlet after we returned. We met them in Sand Point. They are from Shilshole marina. They are really really nice and I hope we meet again in Geographic Harbor. We tend to move faster than them and take bigger steps. But today, in close to shore, they were moving and we were sitting. So, there you are. Two different strategies, both work (until they hit a rock or a williwaw!).

The weather here makes me nervous, can you tell? Just as soon as the winds get strong, they get magnified into williwaws or just giant excursions from the grib prediction caused by the shape of the land and the cooling of the snow/ice on mountains. So strong becomes horrendous and then the williwaws take away all the anchorages you thought you could run to. We are trying to move quickly during light wind periods (basically high pressure) and in between stay in a marina with pilings helping us to hold position. I'm a real believer in pilings and breakwaters.

The problem with all this is the possibility of getting it wrong. Yup, that's the rub.

Larry and Karen



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Arrived Port Wrangell

30 June 2016 | Port Wrangell, Alaska (not to be confused with Wrangell, Alaska)
Larry
The pilot at Fish and Game (at the weir we visited) recommended this anchorage. Good suggestion! There is no swell (and there was plenty enroute) and we are anchored next to the most beautiful waterfall. Dahl Porpoises greeted us at the inlet entrance. They are very fast critters. We are hoping to see a bear, but it hasn't happened yet.

Larry cleaned the Sockeye Salmon we were given. It is indeed a BEAUTIFUL fish. Red meat.

It was 92 miles from Chignik to here and the last 15 miles was against 25 knots of wind and building seas. We were very happy to arrive at about 8:45 pm local time. There is light here until about 11:30 pm. Dawn is around 5 am.

Tomorrow the weather looks good for a passage from here to Geographic Harbor. I wish we could linger here. It is perfect and we have it all to ourselves. It is cool out, but the wind is light so I cleaned the fish in just my regular pants and shirt. No fleece. No jacket. There are no trees, but there are scrub alder bushes and mountain meadow heather creating a green base to the mountains. It's overcast but as it happens the mountains go steeply upward from the water so there is no horizon to see the snow covered mountains even if it weren't overcast.

Where is Port Wrangell? 57d03mN 156d37mW Use Google Earth to find it.

The passage to Geographic Harbor is 102 nm. That's a very long day. We will have to start very early to make it in daylight. I've looked for another anchorage midway, but they all come with williwaw warnings, rock warnings, swell warnings, ... you get the idea.

Geographic Harbor ought to have a dark warning!

Larry and Karen




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Chignik is beautiful

27 June 2016 | Chignik, Alaska, USA
Larry
Chignik is a surprise. It is drop dead georgous. No one told us. It is a place not to be missed.

Of course the morning dawned bright and sunny which helped. We came in in the middle of the night. There are snow covered peaks right above the town, close up and dramatic. And a cliff wall across the inlet. Below the snow, the hills are green. So, yes, just like all of the Alaska Pennisula. But this is better, probably because of the lighting and the closeness of the snow above the town. The mountains between Sand Point and Chignik are rugged. There are at least a few thousand that must never have been climbed. There appears to be no way to get to them. I'm talking rugged embedded in rugged.

The marina is full of fishing boats. We anchored in the bay. Turns out we anchored pretty close to a fishing boat. I sort of saw him, but he was closer than I thought last night. No worries except that he appears to have drifted right over our anchor! Now think about this: This is a huge bay and I anchored too close to the only other boat anchored out. We are not talking the San Juan Islands here. There aren't many boats. And there are just the two of us anchored out (except for across the bay).

It is calm at our anchorage, but in our path to Geographic Harbor, there are headwinds today. They aren't dangerous, but they would dramatically slow our progress. So we will spend a day finding out what else besides beauty that Chignik has to offer. I'm pretty sure it's not dancing girls. There are no trees. (On the Alaska Pennisula we were told, behind every tree there is a beautiful woman).

So where the devil is Chignik? Try 56d18mN 158d23mW. Use Google Earth.

We are experiencing "Salmon Abundance"

23 June 2016 | Larry Nelson
Last night we had the second fillet of the Sockeye Salmon which we shared with our new neighbors Ginger and Peter from SV Irene. They are home ported in Seattle also. We are both at the transient dock in Sand Point in the Schumigen Islands. And we are both waiting to go north. It turns out that even moderately strong winds are "amplified" by the local fiords. Tail winds can become huge headwinds raising steep seas that stop the boat (or nearly so). Light wind means we can move. At least that is how we read the situation.

Last night another neighbor came by. He was a fisherman and he had a King salmon to give away. Did we want it? The price they get for King salmon is much less than for Sockeye, so they choose to give the few they catch away. When I was aboard their boat I noted that they were eating beef. It did smell good!

So this morning we are eating left over Sockeye salmon (which should finish the first fish) and we have a King salmon to begin eating tonight.

It was interesting going aboard the purse seiner to get the fish. They had it in a full compartment that was a dense mixture of ice and salt water. The fish was perfectly preserved. Fishermen know how to preserve the quality of their catch. The King salmon turned out to be a red King (not a white King) so we are still swimming in perfection of fish aboard. And that is appreciated more than just by us. We have "bird friends" now. Eagles, seagulls. We set out fish parts for them when we cleaned our King salmon. They left their thank you's on our deck.

Looking at the weather, we will be here for 3 more days. It's a good thing I have internet aboard! And, big news, yesterday we found laundry facilities at a nearby motel. We slept on clean sheets and had drawers full of clean underwear to choose from in the morning. Yay!

Panta Rhei's Photos - Safety Cat Rescue Pictures
Photos 1 to 15 of 63 | Main
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Safety Cat staged for repair on tires and being loaded to depart on the highest high tide
Repair beneath the floorboards
Inside the hull showing the stringer repair
Some tabbing yet to be done on the repair in the aft section of the boat
Safety Cat work site
Safety Cat repair staging
Karen\, Pari and Andrea inside Safety Cat. Andrea is loading it for departure
Pari and Andrea
Repaired pontoon with access covers in floor removed
Inside of he repaired hull
The repair from the inside
Even the dinghy is ready to float
Looking between the hulls at the work area
The port side hull which was repaired
Safety Cat staged for repair
 
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