SV Panta Rhei Retirement Trip

We ran away from Tanna Island due to weather and poor anchorage, but we still had a mission to see the aftermath of a supercyclone direct hit. So, we tied Panta Rhei to a mooring buoy in Port Vila and headed south by air to Tanna Island. We managed to get a reservation at one of the few resorts with restored facilities so we could do a tour of the volcano and of the island interior. Each tour was done with a 4wd truck and driver and a guide. They spoke english so we could talk to them about the experience at the same time we were seeing its aftermath. It was breath taking.

First, youi should know that a cyclone of this magnitude removes all foilage from trees, bushes, everything. And the island gets rain in torrential amounts. Wind and rain together have devastating effects. All the banana trees were ruined, coconut fruit was blown away, Mango trees were blown over. Cattle and chickens were killed in large numbers. Pigs did a little better because they would dig near tree stumps. All roofs failed. If it was a native hut constructed of light materials, the family crawled to whatever shelter it could find. There was water everywhere, no matter a roof, walls, or floor. Most shelter was knee deep in water just from rain. Clothing and possessions were washed and blown away. The sound of the cyclone was so loud that you could not communicate even if speaking directly into someone's ear. And to top it all off, this went on for a long time leaving self rescues to happen in the dark. If you were sheltered in a concrete shelter (like churches) the shelter killed when it failed and a lot failed. We could see the construction errors that lead to the failures. Construction standards are nonexistent and it showed.

Food was stored in Lenakel, the only town, in a steel building. The roof and sides of the building ripped off, leaving only the steel shell. All stored food was washed and blown away. What remained was root crops like tarrow and tapioca and some sweet potatoes.

But today we go to the market and it is full. There are vegetables of high quality, though limited selection. The leaves of the trees and bushes have grown back. The jungle floor is green. Everywhere there are downed trees. The roads were never more than just dirt tracks and now they are rutted and slick and still narrow but most days we could use them. There were front loaders out clearing wash outs since there is no drainage plan.

Our resort was interesting. The bungalows were all covered in tarps. Water and electricity were intermittent. Internet was similarly intermittent. Restaurant menus were restricted to about 5 things. There are aid organizations from everywhere in the world that have set up very temporary shelters. Some are working to rebuild housing.

There is a very high birth rate, so lots of children. And very poor schools with apparent high drop out rates. Everyone walks (except tourists like us who pay a lot for personal transportation) and I should add that they walk long distances. Average wage is about $10 USD per day according to one aid worker from Australia. There is very high unemployment.

But they were very nice to us and seemed quite happy and well adjusted. Their island is bountiful and it is springing back to care for them. The living level is only slightly above camping and you need to pretty much grow your own food. But they manage that.