SV Panta Rhei Retirement Trip

After 8 days we arrived at the Tarawa Atol, pretty much as planned. We had terrific wind for the first 5-6 days, then it died and we had to motor. Motoring isn't so bad when it is finding you land in what appears to be unbounded water. We slowed so that we could arrive at first light so at about 6 am we had completed the entrance through the reef and were anchored. We knew we were somewhat off the beaten path, but as it turns out, we are the only yacht in the anchorage. No other yachts since we arrived either.

This was the scene of the first heavy combat of WW2. Tomorrow we will tour the battle scenes with a guide to explain what we are seeing.

First up on arrival was to find water. Yes, we arrived at one of the driest places in the ocean with a broken Clarke Pump. No product water at all. And, while we are about it, we need fuel for the next leg to Majuro Marshall Islands. As in Luganville, the trick is to get to a dock where they can deliver it. The winds have been pounding the dock, making it impossible to come alongside. We found water made by RO (Reverse Osmosis) from a local fish processing factory. With a few days notice, they could sell us 600 liters for $0.30 AUD per liter. Fuel is also available for $1.33 AUD per liter. The weather forecast suggests that in 3-4 days it might calm down and be possible to come to the dock. We have enough water to wait, and this starts the staging for going on to Majuro, still 400+ nm away.

So what is Tarawa like? It is crowded, like being in an India slum but with better construction standards. This atol is only a few feet above sea level (maybe 2-4 feet) stuffed to the gills with people and buildings. There is one road down the spine of the Atol. It is being refurbished by Australia and even as that happens, it is being reclaimed by the ocean. Many many work crews are replacing parts that the ocean is washing away as the refurbishment also happens. Traffic is congested due to the construction.

There is a conference on Forced Migration caused by Global Warming. This appears to be the first land destined to go beneath the rising ocean. They have acquired land in Fiji to move to. How would you like living with that reality? Here is how they are handling it ......The local newspaper has a full page english article about how Global Warming is a hoax perpetuated by scientists who are after grant money. Really! Clearly, the conference shows this is taken as reality by many. Even so, with ocean on the doorstop and the road going away, there are deniers. If you are thinking that this is just a little island, think differently. There is major stuff here. This is a very big deal. Realize too that people here are very poor. They have no means to create their own alternatives.

One more thing, Jeff and Brenda had to leave early for a health emergency in the family. There is an airport, and more importantly an airplane that will take them to Majuro. After a two day layover they can get a plane to Hawaii and then home. We will miss them. They were good crew.

The photo shows horseback riding at Ratua, Vanuatu. The ride included a swim in the ocean with the horses. Pretty cool!