Copper canyon
20 November 2009
Nov-Dec 09
Small boats take you so many more places than watery passages. We were driving to Mexico and the Copper Canyon with truck and camper. We had purchased a life raft in Vancouver in the summer of 09. You can`t fly a life raft; explosive goods. Sounds great anyway. Five days of driving took us through the States, visiting Bryce Canyon and friends along the way, and into San Carlos. Demelza had been through Hurricane Jimena in Aug giving some tense times moments and feeling so helpless and distant. Marina Seca had done a wonderful job of communicating and looking after the 200 or more boats in storage. Hurricanes are not supposed to come that far north in the sea. The area and yard was devastated by the flooding so what would we find on board? Everything was fine. High water mark from the river that swept through the yard was 3ft up the keel. Another foot or two and all those boats would have been swept into a massive pile of broken fiberglass and aluminum. After cleaning her up and showing her some love for 3 days we continued south on our rubber tired adventure towards Creel; the gateway to the famed Barranca del Cobre and 1 1/2 days drive farther south. We were to meet Gordon and Nancy in Creel. They flew to La Pas then ferried to Los Mochis where they got on the scenic train ride that brought them up through the canyon to Creel. This Albertan camper and van making it`s way through the crowded narrow streets of Creel was intercepted by Gordon at the main square. They had arrived 20 minutes before. Gotta love a plan that comes together nicely. We hired a guide and tour that took us down the white knuckle track to the depths of the canyon and Batopilas where we would spend 2 nights. En route we would visit cave dwellers and villagers of the canyon; the Raramuri/ Tarahumara Indians, the worlds greatest long distance runners. They live there relatively unaffected by modern civilization tending their marijuana plots. Every once in awhile the government goes in and rousts them out, I think more of a show than anything. There were some guns around and very nice pickups. No problemo. Hotel Mary was simple, clean and so typically Mexican gorgeous. Batopilas was a silver mining area at one time. I had so much fun photographing the buildings of the minesite. Let your imagination take you back in time. We had gone from the pine forest logging and frosty mornings of Creel to a semi tropical climate at the bottom of the canyon with papaya mangoes and avocados. A drop of 1850 meters. Leaving Creel we headed towards Alamos near the coast east of Navojoa. We heard of this World Heritage site, an example of Spanish colonialism that escaped demolition after Mexico attained independence in 1821. It did not disappoint. Ex pats are rebuilding this once grand silver mining town. Enough of dry land travels. Lets go sailing: 2 days drive took us back to San Carlos and Demelza. Relaunch was fun and successful and we were off across the sea in 25k of wind and pretty rough seas, leaving San Carlos well before daylight. Nancy bonded with the side berth for the crossing and remained pretty well horizontal. Don`t think anyone puked but they had good reason to.Water flew about everywhere. Demelza and I were having a blast after too long on dry ground. Santa Rosilia was our landfall. Punta Santa Ines then back into Bahia Conception where we visited Gordo and Gwen in Playa Santispac. We had met them the previous July in Liard Hot springs in northern BC on our way to the Yukon to visit our son Brad and Lindsey. Small world. Punta Pulpito offered us some grand vistas while hiking and a chance to get off Demelza. Time was getting tight so at Loreto we put Gordon and Nancy ashore to bus to La Pas and fly home to Victoria. Elizabeth and I were on our own once more so stopped at Honeymoon cove on Isla Danzante. Agua Verde welcomed us once more then on to the red rocks of Puerto Los Gatos. There we ran into a couple ,the girl a crazy Canuck, who were hiking from Agua Verde south with their dog. They were dry and beat after wandering around in dry gulches and impossible desert mountains. You cannot carry enough water to sustain yourself and a dog in that heat. Salt water doesn`t cut it and that isn`t even accessible most of the time. Further south was familiar territory on our way back to La Pas. We had a truck and camper to get back to Alberta. Before we left La Pas and Marina Palmira we realized yet another dream when we swam with the whale sharks off el Magote. These gentle giants gave us a nice show. Storing Demelza in lovely Marina Palmira we took to Mexican public transport once again. Ferry to Los Mochis bus to Guaymas then taxi back to marina Seca. Headed north once more and after 5 days of driving were were in a blizzard from Lethbridge home. We are really getting around.We had paddled above the arctic circle in the Canadian north, toured Mexico by truck and camper, and sailed the Sea of Cortez. All in 1 year. My perfect year. We had a lovely Christmas at home with the family this time with another granddaughter Andrea along with Kaitlyn.