Cathy came and sat at our table and told us of the trip she had booked and was looking for someone to join her. It was a trip I had in the back of my mind since 1988 when our family drove the Baja in our chevy van. I had heard of it at that time and it sounded very interesting. After thinking about it for the night I said sure count me in. We planned to meet in Rice and Beans RV, San Ignacio on Thursday a couple of weeks later. Fast forward a couple of weeks and we were unloading the camper off the truck and setting Elizabeth and Luke up beside the lagoon at San Ignacio. I was going to take my truck as the drive into San Francisco de la Sierra ( Rancho San Francisco) was 7km of very rough road. After registering and getting our permits from the Museo beside the Mission at San Ignacio, Cathy and I were off. The road in was 35km of lovely paved road into the high Sierra and yes, 7 km of very rough road. After being in Mexico and taking a number of rough roads you are always re-evaluating what comprised a rough road. This was a rough road. Making contact at park headquarters at Rancho San Francisco we proceded to Rancho Guadelupe another 3 km across the high Desert were Francisco our guide was waiting with 3 mules and 2 burros saddled. Francisco had ridden for 5 hours, burro trail ,from his ranchero at Santa Martha to meet us. Packed and we were off by 12:30.
The first 2 miles took us across the high Baja sierra with lovely vistas eventually coming to the rim of Canyon Santa Teresa. From there our trail dropped most of the time very steeply and a couple of spots we had to dismount as there was danger of the mules falling. Believe me when there is danger of them falling it is steep and slippery. These are unbelievably sure footed, calm steeds. The trail switched back and forth across the wall of the canyon as we made our way to the canyon floor. Unbelievably in the very bottom of the canyon there was another Ranchero. Talk about isolation! But Francisco carried with him and spent a lot of time talking on his 2 meter hand held radio. There was almost constant chatter as these isolated rancheros visited and kept in contact with each other. Interesting blend of old and new tchnologies. Our trail on the canyon floor led us across rock and winding our way through house size boulders. Camp after 4 hours on the trail. Francisco unsaddled the animals while we set up our tents on the only sandy patches available. There was nice water coming out of the rocks. Lovely. The animals were turned loose to forage. A horse wouldn,t of survived there but the Mules/ burrows did fine eating anything from dried up palm fronds to orange peel. The sounds of the bells rang through the night from up the canyon as we enjoyed a lovely fire.

Day 2 was a day of hiking to the various cuevos(caves) in the area. Leaving at 8:30 and plans to be gone until 5. It was a full day with visiting 5 caves. The painting are believed to be around 3000 years old and of course a lot of speculation about them. Carbon dating of the caves puts inhabitation at 10800 years. Wow!!! Francisco was great with all the time we wanted to photograph and wonder at the caves and paintings. Lunch time then a swim in a lovely pool was a nice appreciated bonus.Returning to camp we discovered we had been joined by another party of 14 Mexican tourists and 4 guides.Not to mention another 25 burrows. It was an added bonus sitting around the fire with this large and boisterous group dining and acting Mexican. A real treat.

Day 3 started again with lots of Mexican food and energy as they wrangled and saddled their animals. Their trip was 2 days so they visited some caves and rode out the same day. We were on a more leisurely pace so as they hiked off we packed for the ride out. Leaving camp at 11 we followed the same trail out again. I was very appreciative of that mule hauling my sorry butt out of that canyon. Don,t think I would of been able to on foot. 5 hrs on the trail found us back at the ranchero at 4pm. Cathy and I were back in San Ignacio at 6.
A great experience. For me couldn,t have been any better. 2700 pesos ($160us) $80 each. Plus a tip that I felt was well deserved. We supplied all the food and cooking and camping gear. Francisco supplied his services,knowledge, and 5 pack animals.$8/day each for the animals and $12 per day for the guide. Only in Mexico!!! For me the pack trip and observing how the Mexicans did things was the highlight but the paintings were wonderful.