We got up at 5:00 a.m., as the guy from the marina was going to be at our slip at 5:30 (at our request) to pick up the gate/shower keys. We had shore power (electricity to plug into) last night, so we got that disconnected and the cord stowed and got underway about 5:50 a.m. Bahia San Evaristo is about 6-8 hours away, depending on the wind and we planned on getting in by 2:00 or 3:00 p.m.

I'm not sure if I have mentioned this or not, but now that we are done with the overnight trips (for now), we have one hour shifts instead of 3 hour shifts. There is no particular order to our shifts, we just rotate; after the first rotation is done, we then stick with that rotation for the rest of that day. Today, I had my first shift from 8:00 to 9:00 a.m. We were, obviously, well away from La Paz by that time and adjacent to a large island called Isla De Espirito de Santos; we were between that island and Baja. It is just warm enough still to not need a shirt, but I think those mornings are coming to an end as we head north. However, the early morning sun on my back was both comfortable and comforting.

At about 8:30, at 24 28.09'N: 110 27.19'W we had our first whale siting. There were two of them, but they were some distance behind us and we just saw them spouting in the distance.

Although we put our main sail up every day (as I think I may have mentioned, it helps to reduce the rocking action of the boat), we don't always put up the other sails unless there is enough wind to actually sail. Around 9:30 we put up the jib and it helped us to make better time, but the wind just wasn't strong enough to allow us to turn off the motor yet.

About 10:00 the wind was blowing hard enough for us to sail and we made what ended up to be the fateful decision to shut off the motor and sail. It was a great sailing day and we tacked back and forth as we made our way north to Bahia San Evaristo. We were making good speed (regularly over 6 knots), but as the afternoon wore on, it became evident that due to wind direction and currents, it was going to take quite a while to get our anchorage so we decided to fire up the motor again and head straight to Bahia San Evaristo - but nothing happened when Jackie turned the key - there was no motor! The coordinates entered for this entry was our approximate location when we found out the motor would not start.

Stan and I dug around in the motor for a good hour and a half (let me clarify that, Stan dug around and I held the flashlight so he could see what the hell he was doing). I guess this is as good a time to describe boat motors as I know them. The manufacturer crams them, for want of space, into a tiny compartment with very limited access. The most common things you may want to attend to (checking belts, oil, coolant, etc.) are generally pretty accessible, but it is real hard to get to anything else. It was clear that there was an electrical problem so we dug around, hanging basically upside down testing wires to see if we could find anything loose and/or to see if we could find where the problem was.

In the meantime, we are worried that with no motor, the shore could be a problem as the wind was pushing us toward the cliffs. Alison suggested altering course, putting the jib back up (we had taken it down in preparation for staring the motor) and heading out to sea to buy us space (between us and the approaching shore) and time. We did so.

Having not found the problem, we were thankful we were on a sailboat and not a motor boat as we had an option: sail straight for our final destination, which is San Carlos. The Sea of Cortez curves to the west at the top, so although we wanted to get to San Carlos, which is on the east side of the Sea of Cortez, we actually had to sail a course of about 327 (north west) to get there. The wind only allowed us to set a course of about 50 (north east) because of the direction it was coming from. San Carlos is about 180 miles away...we'll get there, but it won't be quick.

I should mention that the auto pilot also went haywire (during the trouble shooting) and Alison had to hand steer. This was, we think, due to a combination of the wind hitting us after it ripped with a funnel effect between the two islands we had been approaching: Isla San Francisco and Isla San Jose. After giving up on the starter (Stan had narrowed it down that much, but had no solution to the problem), we rebooted the computer for the autopilot and electronic chart/plotting program and, having passed through the wind gauntlet, starting steering the course I have described above.

We were now back on our three hour shifts and I took my normal slot of 3:00 to 6:00. I must say, it was very tranquil. Even on this type of cruising trip, once you have your anchorage in mind, you sort of focus on it. As the day wears on and you are not there yet, you start to think about turning on the motor so you can get in, anchor in the light, go swimming, and have a drink. At those times, you, or at least I, forget that the purpose is to be out sailing. Once we came to the conclusion that the motor was just not going to start and the 6 or so miles we had to go until our next stop became the 180 miles it was to San Carlos, the attitude immediately changed. We were just sailing again. There was no rush, no desire to even start the motor if it had been an option. All of a sudden, the calming effect of the wind and the rocking of the boat were our friend again.

As my shift wore on, it cooled considerably and it dawned on me that during tonight's watch I would need socks and my fleece (unzipped, but still needed) and it was bittersweet. On the one hand, it was a beautiful, tranquil afternoon/evening, but on the other, the fact that we are creeping north is becoming more and more evident.

We are, or course, completely dependant on the wind and prayed that it would not stop because the boat would then stop as well. The wind held up and actually shifted to the west a bit, allowing us to vary our course until by bed time we were on a course of about11 (still north east, but getting close to north, which is 0).

We had a dinner of hot dogs and hamburgers for dinner and then it was off to bed.

Paul.