Cruising the New Brunswick shore
03 July 2013 | Northumberland Straight
Overcast, calm, warn.
So it has been a while since I updated the blog. We last left our intrepid travelers in the lovely harbour of Paspibeac Québec.... We crossed Chaleur the next day (June 28) to Bas de Caraquet, New Brunswick. The pumpout wasn't available (go figure). The attendant at the marina made arrangements for a pumpout truck to meet us in Shippagan where we were stopping for the night. We fueled up and headed up the inside channel to Shippigan, which is a major fishing port with access from both Chaleur and Northumberland straight.
On arrival at Shippigan we were just after low tide, the marina assured us there was enough water in their entrance channel.... We went aground soon after entering.... We backed off and headed into the fishing boat harbour to await the tide and the pumpout truck. There was lots of water in the fishing boat harbour, but shore access meant a 12' climb up a ladder.... The pumpout truck arrived and within about 30 seconds we were empty, then he gave us the bill... $125!!!! (The most we have ever been charged is $25). Around 6pm we motored into the marina, tied up and had dinner.
Next day we had to wait for low tide at about 3:30 in order to fit under the lift bridge to take the channel through Shippigan Gully to the Straight. Heather and I went up to the town for groceries, drug store and availed ourselves of the amazing selection of micro-brewery product at the liquor store (more about that in the beer blog). We also did laundry (free!) filled our water tank and puttered.
At 3pm we headed for the bridge. We were a bit worried, we had heard varying reports of the clearance, everything from 39' to 46', we need a minimum of 45', it was going bro be close. A morning phone call to the bridge tender got our hopes up, there would be no problem he said. This would save us a90 mile passage, so we were hopeful. At 3:30 we hailed the bridge on VHF and he said we had 47' come on through, we made it with 18" to spare.
From the bridge it was about 4miles through a very narrow, shallow, twisting channel to Shippigan Gully. The mud flats we covered in more herons than I think I've ever seen, along with other wading birds and gulls. The gully itself looked like a whitewater rapid with an I rushing current if 3-4 knots! We gunned the engine and slowing crawled into open water.
We had called the marina in Tracadie and been assured that there was enough water to get in to there facility two hours down the coast. Off we went. We came on the gully and turned up the marina channel with predicable results.... So we headed for the fishing harbour at Val Comeau. We picked our way up the channel with a few touches and found a free spot at the dock with just barely enough water and for the low price of $10 (with power) we were in for the night.
On June 30th we waited until high tide around 10am to pick our way back out and head for Escuminac. Once again we had no wind and motored the whole way.... Escuminac is the biggest inshore fishing Harbour on the east coast and us run by a cooperative of fishers. It is huge, there was lots if room, although we couldn't get into the inner harbour, too shallow. We headed to Le Coin de Pecheurs/Fishrrman's Corner for a late lunch. It was awesome. Heather had a scallop burger and I had the best fried clams I have ever tasted. We didn't need dinner..... In the evening we chatted with various local folk who ambled by including the local boatbuilder (inherited the craft from his dad) who has built more than 500 of the distinctive Northumberland Straight fishing boats we had been seeing in every harbour.
The next morning, Canada Day, we got up with the sun for the very long (55 mile) run to Shediac. Again no wind. We ran 3-5 miles offshore and the view of the countryside and dunes, especially around Kouchibouguac National Park, were extraordinary. We arrived at the very friendly Shediac Bay Yacht Club and proceeded to the pumpout dock which, amazingly enough, worked. And it was FREE! Had a great meal aboard and settled in to watch the fireworks.
The transition from the very remote, rural areas we had been cruising in for weeks to Shediac, which is essentially a suburb of Moncton, was quite jarring. We came around the point into Shediac Bay to be greeted by a swarm of dozens of pleasure boats on a holiday Monday.
Tuesday morning we slept late and then went into town for groceries and beer. We buy small amounts of stuff as we are limited to a small cooler bag and a couple of backpacks for lugging groceries, as well as having limited space for storage. It does mean we eat pretty well, lots of salads, fresh veggies and fresh seafood. We generally shop every 2-3 days.
We left SBYC around 1pm and headed to Pt. de Chenes marina to get fuel. $1.59 a liter for diesel, ouch! We had been paying around $1.30 in Québec. Again, no wind, flat seas, on the motor all the way under the Confederation Bridge to the old ferry terminal at Tormentine. We found a perfect spot in the inner fishing boat harbour, tied up and cooked up the fresh clams we bought in Shediac. Again had some lively chats with fisherfolk and others who happened by.... A sailboat is a rarity in this harbour, so we were a curiosity. Nobody showed up to collect the wharf fee (and we had power).
This morning I got up, made a good breakfast with coffee/tea/hot chocolate for the crew, walked the dog and shoved off at 9:15 for Charlottetown. We are currently 16.5 miles from the harbour mouth in the middle of the straight, no wind, flat seas... Looking forward to a couple of days playing tourist in the cradle of confederation.