Minnie B

Making it up as we go along

05 May 2017
05 May 2017 | Cumberland Bay, St Vincent
25 April 2017
25 April 2017
25 April 2017 | Portsmouth, Dominica
25 April 2017 | Iles des Saintes
31 March 2017
31 March 2017
31 March 2017
09 March 2017 | Jolly Harbour, Antigua
09 March 2017 | Mosquito Cove, Jolly Harbour, Antigua
28 February 2017
28 February 2017
28 February 2017
28 February 2017
28 February 2017
28 February 2017
11 February 2017

Basking in Bequia

05 May 2017
Then on Tuesday 2nd May, the 17nm to Bequia in 15kts ESE wind and anchor off Princess Margaret beach.

Wednesday we walked to Industry Bay and the Old Hegg turtle sanctuary where they raise Hawksbill turtles and release them after 6-7 years. Thursday was a walk to Friendship Bay.

Small cruising world though - we met up with Roberto, Daphne and daughters Bora and Tea on 'Brancaleone', who we first encountered in the summer of 2009. We had not seen Roberto since Alvor, Portugal in August 2009. A big WOW ... and a lot of catching up.

We will keep heading south now but ever so leisurely - via Mustique (we think it is our kind of place!). There are far fewer boats and people around so it is all very pleasant.

Myths exploded and rumours rebutted

05 May 2017 | Cumberland Bay, St Vincent
So Roger fixed the outboards – that was OK but we were left a bit iffy on what he actually did so we shall see in the longer term. We had some good craic in the marina with Charles on ‘Altair’ and James and Gillian on ‘Zephyr’, including a not-bad meal at Bosun’s, but ended up doing very little in Saint Lucia other than provisioning.

We were away from the anchorage at 0515 on Friday 28th April for the 51nm to Chateaubelair on the west coast of St Vincent. Despite some adverse current on the passage between the islands for just 3-4nm we had good winds and an average speed of 6.4kts with the wind mostly 15kts ESE, so a close reach.

The three bays on the west coast of St Vincent – Chateaubelair, Cumberland Bay and Wallilabou – are the most dangerous and insecure in the Caribbean, and you should stay well offshore when passing. Rubbish.

Graham and Joan were already in Cumberland Bay with ‘Karma’ and had sent us up-to-date info about clearance: usually Monday to Friday 0900-1600 in Chateaubelair, and Monday, Wednesday and Friday 1600-1800 at Wallilabou. So we anchored at Chateaubelair and went ashore where Graham and Joan were actually waiting for us – change of plan on this particular Friday as the officials were not there. So we all went round to Cumberland Bay to anchor and have a stern line ashore. Local “Boat Boy” Ivor is there to meet us and provided the long line to a palm tree. All snugged down and all well.

Clearance was completed at Wallilabou by taking the dinghy round. All good.

We had a fabulous time over the weekend and the local people could not have been friendlier or more welcoming. Ivor’s mother, Mummy Elma, has a bar and restaurant, and there are another four bars on the beach. So we had beers at Mummy Elma’s and Benny’s – seems there is a bit of local politics and drinking at all the bars doesn’t work.

We had a lovely walk to Spring Village for bread – excellent bakery – and on up the valley into the mountainous interior. We were advised to stay on the road as paths off may lead you to someone’s ganga plantation and they may not be too happy about that.

In the evening a few boatloads of fishermen arrived in the bay from Barouallie with a large net to catch small fish for bait. Interestingly when they closed the net in a circle they rowed the closing boat at high speed with four men on the oars. Very traditional.

It is likely that these are the same fishermen who managed inadvertently to upset a lot of passengers on a cruise ship. The latter had gone out whale and dolphin watching on 30th March, and while they were out they saw the fishermen hunt and kill two orcas. The Prime Minister has now promised to ban the killing of orca which are in fact the largest members of the dolphin family. Short-finned pilot whales are caught and will be caught in future – we saw a pod of three on passage from Saint Lucia.

On Sunday 30th April, Graham and Joan had arranged for Ivor to take us round to Wallilabou in his boat where we met up with Thaddeus Saloman for a tour of part of the island. Thaddeus’ car said Suzuki on it but we think it was designed by Dinky Toys. “Small” did not really describe it. Anyway we drove south along the west coast with grand views of the bays, through Kingstown, part way up Mesopotamia Valley (to be revisited), a lookout over the Marriaqua Valley (the breadbasket of St Vincent), to the new international airport (of which they people are enormously proud) and on to Blue Lagoon anchorage and marina. Then for the highlight of the day.

Back north to Mount Wynn Bay where hundreds if not thousands of people were gathering for the annual “Pork on the Beach” event. This is a competition between restaurants for the roasting of the best pork … and music … loud music (which is actually tautological as all music in the Caribbean is loud) … and drinking …

Well now, you thought you had heard of some strange drink concoctions but St Vincent takes the prize: how about Campari and beer? Or Campari, Guinness and Rum? Who would have thought that Campari had such a following in St Vincent? We tried the Campari and beer – just the once.

The pork was excellent, Thaddeus’ girlfriend Pat joined us and the event was very friendly and sociable – Phil got interviewed for local TV but it probably ended up on the cutting room floor.

Ivor collected us from Wallilabou and the trip back in the dark was delightful as fireflies darted about on the cliffs in a display of illuminated acrobatics. When we got back to the boat we found two large bags of juicy, fresh tomatoes delivered by Carlos, who also works in the bay.

A superb day.

On Monday we had a walk to the ridge overlooking Cumberland Bay and then BBQ on ‘Karma’ where we ate blackfish brought by Pat – we subsequently found out that this is pilot whale. It was very tasty.

So, how did we feel? As safe and secure as anywhere else and perhaps more so as in Cumberland Bay people live on the beach and there are dogs that bark at night at any unusual activity. Will we return? Without a doubt. The only good thing about the myths and rumours is that for us it keeps the place quieter, but then this is not so good for the people who live there and have little other than farming and fishing.

Stopping in Saint Lucia

25 April 2017
Ah, the best laid plans …

The idea was to do a 72 hours stop clearing in and out in one go. We discovered a slight flaw in this, in that you can do 72 hours in and out with Customs for the boat but not with Immigration for the people: you have to go back to clear out with Immigration. Amazing what rubbish information circulates among cruisers!

However there is good provisioning at the Massey supermarket and deli so that was alright … until …

… our trusty 9.9hp 2-stroke Yamaha decided it was not well. So, clean carburettor, change fuel – nope still not well. No worries we have our trusty back up 2.5hp 4-stroke Suzuki. Yup stick it on the dinghy and fire it up – all well. So we have some lunch and then ready to go ashore – Suzuki has now caught the contagious disease afflicting the Yamaha and again despite ministration it just would not start.

So here we are in the Rodney Bay Marina for a couple of days (we hope) while ace mechanic Roger works his magic on both outboards. Hm.

Messing in Martinique

25 April 2017
After motoring down the west coast of Dominica on Monday 10th April, we picked up the wind and had a good sail in 14-18kts ESE to complete the 53nm to St Pierre in nine hours. We anchored south of the town and Alastair and Esther on ‘Cranstackie’ came over for sundowners.

Then on to Fort-de France the next day to clear in and restock with French produce at the big Carrefour. The anchorage was very rolly during the day with all the ferry traffic but calmed down at night. Since our last visit in 2011, the authorities seem to have made a big effort to smarten the place up somewhat – a work in progress.

We arranged to rendezvous with Ann and Stephan on ‘SAS3’ at Grand Anse d’Arlet on 13th April and they joined us for a sumptuous dinner at the restaurant L’Escale which we highly recommend.

We hiked over to Petite Anse d’Arlet, strolled around the bay, gave the bottom of the boat a bit of a scrub and enjoyed having a beer ashore at the many beach restaurants and bars. We were entertained by the anchoring antics of new arrivals and their apparent indifference to being in very close proximity to other boats – ah well, c’est La France.

Like a magnet or being joined by a tether, we just had to go back to Ste Anne, which we did on Easter Monday – a beat of course but quite comfortable. It was a good place to sit out some stronger winds, more swell and buckets of rain that arrived on 18th and 19th April.

Dinner aboard ‘SAS3’ was the usually delicious affair but we managed to walk off some of the calories by heading to Les Salines and Pointe d’Enfer – an eight miles round trip. The coastal walk is varied and quite delightful.

However, it was time to keep moving south and so Friday 21st April saw us clear out and enjoy the 23nm sail, reaching in 12-13kts wind, to Rodney Bay, St Lucia, which shockingly is virtually empty of boats.

We have been quite amazed at the contrast these last weeks with the enormous number of boats cruising in December-January – St Anne was down by at least 50 per cent as well. It seems strange since we are now in a more benign period of winds and there is generally less rain about. Oh well ….

Dawdling in Dominica

25 April 2017 | Portsmouth, Dominica
Well, back to Prince Rupert Bay on Thursday 6th April with a reach for the 22nm in 15kts easterly wind. Lo and behold, here was 'Karma' with Graham and Joan and 'Ari B' with Alex and Carla (last seen in Trinidad in November).

We did the 5 miles Pennville to Capuchin hike (relatively easy) of the Waitukibuli Trail with Graham and Joan, through lush countryside with grand views north to Guadeloupe. We walked on for another couple of miles to Clifton where we found a shop with a fridge full of beer that we nearly emptied by the time the bus came to take us back to Portsmouth.

A dinghy visit to the cruise ship dock for some snorkelling was a little disappointing as the visibility was not great and the depth fell away quickly - so we did not see the seahorses that are supposed to hang out there.

A fine evening aboard 'Ari B' led us to stay for our third PAYS BBQ - the rather sensuous lady who had entertained everyone when Greg and Carol were with us, was not present and as we were leaving early the next day the event was slightly muted for us, but it is good to support the Boat Boys.

Saints above 2

25 April 2017 | Iles des Saintes
What to do after the hectic two weeks of the Elite Luxury Cruise 2017? Nothing for it but back to Iles des Saintes.

Of course we went on Saturday 1st April, close-hauled in 15-18kts, and all the weekend boats from Pointe a Pitre were there with every mooring taken. The anchorage was a bit rolly as weirdly the wind went into the north.

Nevertheless the rapid clear out of boats after the weekend meant that we could pick up a mooring close to OCC folks John and Angela on ‘Galadriel’ and Tony and Jill on ‘Nychea’. A fine old time was had over evening drinks with them.

After the hectic pace of the previous two weeks we decided on some leg stretching and so climbed to Fort Napoleon for a pretty interesting museum and great views (the pictorial displays of how the British defeated the French at the battle of Les Saintes in 1782 and established naval supremacy that lasted … for a good while … were just as hilarious as the diaroma of the Battle of Bunker Hill in Boston where the only “dead” soldiers are British). Oh well.

The very next day we decided on the hike to the top of Le Chameau, 1000ft elevation by a very steep road, and again had magnificent views.

We treated ourselves to an excellent meal at the restaurant ‘Le Fringale’ which had been recommended by Bob and Elaine – they know their restaurants. Fine food indeed.
Vessel Name: Minnie B
Vessel Make/Model: OVNI 395
Hailing Port: Belfast, Northern Ireland
Crew: Phil and Norma
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