7TH March, 2009 Phang Nga Bay, Thailand

I knew it was awhile since I last updated the Blog but did not realize that it is nearly a month. Time seems to have marched on and I find the best time for me to update the blog is when we have a longish sail and as we have only had short hops since the last update the blog has not got done. Also in the interest of saving power I don't do it at night as the computer uses a lot of power.

We virtually motor sailed the whole 37 miles from Ban Thrap Lamu to the Similan Islands and our first anchorage was at Koh Similan and what a beautiful spot - crystal clear blue water and we could see hundreds of fish swimming under the boat. You are not allowed to actually put an anchor down in the Similans so it is a bit of a rush to get a mooring buoy before they are all taken up by the dozens of charter boats that come in and out during the day, plus a few bigger ones that take people out for several days. We spent two nights at Koh Similan and the second day we did what they called a big nature walk which was up and down hills and took us three and a half hours. I was exhausted by the time we got back so was great to have a nice long swim - the water temperature here is a consistent 28=B0C. Not always refreshing but a cool shower afterwards to wash off the salt is good.

Before moving to another little island less than a mile away we climbed up and around some big rocks to have a look at the view. While in the Similans we had to pay a 1000 Baht ($NZ59) fee as it is a national park and a Ranger comes around in a dinghy to collect the fee. It depends where you are as to whether you get asked for it.

We had three nights at an island called Koh Miang which was a beautiful spot and did a climb (with ropes) up some rocks to look at another view. Can't say I like those type of walks but worth it when you get there!

On 18th Feb we left the Similans at 6am and did a 51 mile trip to Ko Kala, a beach on the north west side of Phuket Island. We did have some lovely peaceful sailing for three hours and then we had to motor sail but we did mange to have the spinnaker up for a little while but with the motor going.

Next day headed down the coast 9 miles to Patong where we went ashore to the supermarket to do grocery shopping and then moved another 7 miles to Kata Beach. Was a nice spot and not quite so touristy as Patong and we had two nights there before heading back to Ao Chalong on 21st Feb. We had a great sail around to there, only having to motor the last couple of miles. It is exciting when we can actually sail, with no motor, as it is a rare occurrence!

We had four nights in Ao Chalong, one day was spent catching buses into Phuket town and then another one to Boat Lagoon as we had parts for our wheel autohelm to pick up which were being replaced under warranty. Ended up being virtually a whole day excursion. As our Visa was to expire on 26th February we decided to do our clearance with Customs, Immigration and Harbour Master on Tuesday 24th February. We were told that it costs 300 baht to check out - 200 for customs and 100 for the Harbour Master. We go in there at 11.50am and there were quite a few yachties also clearing in but the customs officer came out and checked to see if we were checking in or out. When he found that we were checking out he said he would take us after we had done Immigration but the people checking in had to come back at 1pm as he was having lunch. We do our bit with him and he asks for 300 baht so I hand it over, then we move a few seats over to the Harbour Master and he asks for 100 baht. I tried to query the 300 with customs but he laughed and said something about a tip which I could not understand but our receipt was for 200 baht so by taking us over lunch was an opportunity for him to collect 100 baht for himself!! It doesn't cost anything to check in so obviously there was no point in him spending his lunchtime checking people in. We did do a chuckle once we realized the receipt was for 200 baht.

Once cleared out in Thailand they don't seem to worry about yachts coming and going so decided to head up into Phang Nga Bay with Solan and Tonic (they had 2 month visas) and have spent the last 11 days visiting some of the many islands which are actually huge limestone islands rising out of the sea. We anchored under soaring cliffs fringed with jungle and dinghied in and out of various caves

We left Ao Chalong on Wednesday 25th Feb and motor sailed further north to Koh Rang Yai. . Next morning we had a wonderful surprise when our Doctor friend, Chris on Kassoumay pulled up beside us. He had flown over from Australia with a friend, to pick up his boat in Langkawi and sail it up to Boat Harbour, Phuket to get some work done on it in order to sell it. He is Pierre-Louis's father and his wife Christine is due to have a little girl mid March. They were going to be on the Indonesian Rally with us but then found Christine was pregnant when in Darwin so pulled out. When we last heard from them they were in France but have been in W. A for a month where Chris is working. It was neat to catch up with him again even if it was only for an hour.

On the Thursday afternoon we motored up to Ko Nakha and then Friday to Koh Phanak where we went by dinghy through a tunnel to a hong but we could not get right through by dinghy as the tide was too high so swam under the last of the rocks into the hong (Thai for room) - amazing. Once we came out we actually dinghied around the whole island. Friday we went a few more miles further north to Koh Hong and dinghied into the hong there which was just amazing and is a beautiful enclosed waterway with a large chimney opening to the sky. It is just a pity that the sea water is not a beautiful clear blue or green like the West Coast of Phuket and the Similans. While there we were visited by several fisherman and we purchased king prawns and a couple of crabs so dined like kings that night. Absolutely yummy. We moved off mid afternoon as we heard the ranger collects a 600 baht ($NZ35) late in the day from boats staying there the night so went across to Koh Kudu Yai and anchored between two islands and next morning did a tiki tour around the island in our dinghies but only found one hong. Then in the afternoon we moved a couple of miles to Koh Yao Noi and anchored in a bay with a resort ashore. Moved another four miles down that island next morning.

On Tuesday we went to another island on the Krabi side of Phang Nga called Koh Hong and had a swim or rather a cool off in the hong there before heading to the other side of the island where it was supposedly more sheltered and a beautiful spot. Dave and I went ashore in the dinghy to have a look and found that we would be charged 200 baht per person just to anchor in the bay and we would not be using the facilities so we got out of there quick and we headed 8 miles across to the mainland to anchor off Ao Nang, Krabi. We started off motor sailing and within 10 minutes a nice breeze got up and we had a lovely sail across with just the genoa out. We had 3 nights in Ao Nang which is another Patong, very touristy but the water is certainly nicer on the mainland side of Phang Nga Bay. On Thursday morning we caught a bus to the main town of Krabi which was 35 minutes from Ao Nang and had a look around there, and is quite a big town, population of Krabi supposedly 90,000.

Yesterday morning we moved 3 miles further south to a little bay called Laem Nang and what a beautiful spot. Ashore we found heaps of resorts and eating places, some cheap, some expensive and there was a fabulous new resort being built. It also looked as though it had been badly affected by the tsunami. The beach was no good for swimming at low tide but you just went for a little walk around to the other side and there was this beautiful beach with big limestone stalactites etc. overhanging at the end of the bay. We all had a nice swim there and then some local guys came along with bananas to feed the monkeys that all suddenly appeared. Caused a lot of excitement for the tourists and their families. We were probably twice the age of most of the tourists there and they were all Europeans.

We are now approaching the South West monsoon season here and for the last few days we have been having thunder, lightening and rain for a short time, mostly at night. We did get drenched one night at Ao Nang getting back to our boats. Last night we had quite heavy rain for an hour or so and yet we had a perfectly sunny, clear day.

While writing this we are heading 16 miles across to Koh Yao Yai where we will spend the night and then we will start heading towards Langkawi tomorrow stopping off at a few islands that we haven't been to on the way. Solan & Tonic are both heading back into Ao Chalong where Lynne (Solan) & Doug (Tonic) are having some dental work done. We did sail for a couple of hours and had the spinnaker up but there certainly isn't a lot of wind so are now motor sailing.

SHOPPING IN THAILAND.

Thought I had better add this for all you girls!! Shopping - I absolutely hate it! There are some fabulous malls with all the labels etc. but they are all very expensive and cost more than in NZ. The street stalls are the places to buy but the touts are after you as soon as you just look at something and the price on the garment is never the price you have to pay so you always have to bargain. You can not try anything on with out bargaining the price beforehand and once you have tried it on you are obligated to buy. You can never just look at anything without being pestered so consequently I don't look or buy. Buying for other people would be a nightmare as there sizing is so out of wack with our sizing, it is impossible to buy without trying on.