02/29/2012, Barra de Navidad
February 20 - 29, 2012: Well we are back in the Barra lagoon after a 22 nautical mile passage northbound from Santiago. What wind there was ... happened to be on our nose along with lumpy seas. The good news we had was full water tanks, an empty holding tank and lots of whale sightings. The boat flotillas migrating south to El Salvador and points beyond have reduced the number of boats occupying the lagoon this year as compared to last year.
We started off our stay with the usual chores of grocery shopping and laundry. There has been talk on the local net of "Fat Tuesday" celebrations in town including a parade, music, dance performances and carnival rides for the kids. But true to form nothing concrete could be established. There was a "practice parade" one night and you could hear very loud music until the wee hours each morning.
Actually it was been a very "strange week in the neighborhood". The afternoon winds have been relentless. On the 23rd we had sustained winds of 20-25 kts with 30 knot gusts that blew from early afternoon until about midnight. Sure enough anchors on two boats gave way. One boat was occupied with a single handler and he needed an extra hand to help reset his anchor. The other boat, whose crew was in town, blew down between us and Hooligan. This large 53 ft Amel got hung up on a crewless anchored 35 ft boat behind us. About six dinghies were out helping separating these two boats and letting out more chain to stop the big boat's progress. Once it was secure it was off to help the single handler get his anchor down.
But the afternoon excitement was still not over. The folks on the 53 ft Amel got back aboard and did an excellent job of pulling around the anchored boat they slid into. All of us watching were quite nervous since we didn't know the extent of how tangled the anchors were. They motored back to their original spot and reset their anchor ... but it wouldn't hold and the winds were still howling! So again they begin to pull in their anchor. At first we couldn't tell what was happening but we were getting upset at the captain for leaving the helm to go forward ... the winds were pushing their boat our direction.
Moments later he is back at the helm calling the fleet with a medical emergency and needed someone to come over and take his crew member to an emergency room. She had gotten her hand caught in the windlass and part of her finger was ripped off. Well that got everyone mobilized one more time ... we picked another cruiser to replace the injured crew member. Then we took the injured woman to the mega resort and marina here in the lagoon. While we were in route other cruisers alerted the marina and requested medical assistance. And more people came by to assist the captain on getting his boat secure.
Our trip to the resort was quite wet ... fact is, I had a coat on since the wind was strong and chilly; most of you know I am rarely cold. This was a good thing however, as we kept our injured patient warm and drier on the trip in. The resort/marina staff was incredibly efficient and very kind. I stayed with her during the exam and treatment. She was very fortunate having only her little finger on her left hand injured. The finger tip was just held on by just a flap of skin. It got cut off and the remaining part of the finger was stitched together. As a retired nurse, she knew what to expect and easily made the decision not to try and save the finger tip. Both Bob and I joked with her, that she had one less fingernail to polish. What an afternoon! The several glasses of chilled white wine tasted damn good after today's activities.
The winds finally abated after a couple more days and we had no further incidents of boats dragging. But the "strange" week was not over. Bob has net controller duties for the Southbound net on Saturday night. Once the net was complete we were heading into town with some friends for dinner. Normally, our friends don't participate or even listen into the evening's net. But tonight was different since Bob was running the net and they tuned in. Sure enough a boat called in requesting to pass traffic to our friends ... after a brief conversation we completed the net and set off in the water taxi picking our friends.
What we found out later was not good news ... our friend's friend had a medical emergency that required them to fly back to Canadian. Here they were just about to check out of Mexico and transit to El Salvador when the wife was having difficulties swallowing. Medical tests discovered a tumor growing in her esophagus. Our friends assisted them in contacting the appropriate doctors for this sort of problem, as well as, providing moral support. Gosh it is very sobering to see the gears of life reversing so quickly from "living the dream" to facing some serious medical decisions.
I have seen thru my lifetime that tragedies or some kind of event happens in threes. Sure enough we had another significant episode ... a longtime cruiser living on his boat here in the lagoon has been battling cancer. Not long ago he had one leg amputated and was put in hospice care back in the states. But he "escaped" or refused care ... whatever the case and came back to his boat to live out his remaining days. Thru the course of weeks and days, people would stop by and check on him. This included the water taxi drivers, fellow cruisers and land based gringos. Sure enough one morning, people found him unconscious, dehydrated and in very poor condition. Was this the end? The port captain was contacted to bring out EMT's and transport this fellow to a clinic in a nearby town. Again cruisers around the lagoon were pretty sad and concerned for this person's welfare. Well after 24 hours and TLC in the clinic, this guy was back on his boat. Why ... well who's to say. He showed up in his hospital gown totally without memory to the events that led him to hospitalization in the first place. He has a huge drinking problem and now along with morphine for pain probably led him to overdose. On purpose or accidently, it a good question and not one I wish to dwell on. Who's to say what any of us would do in his shoes.
But our sad tales do not end here. For the past week, thru the various nets, there has been a health and welfare broadcast searching for a missing sailboat that only had one crew member on board. He was outbound Manzanillo and inbound Zihuantanejo which is about a two day journey. Well there has been no sighting of this boat for the past week. The Mexican Navy has been called into the search and his sister has been driving up and the down the coast talking with cruisers and looking for the boat. We just heard on the VHF radio that a sailboat matching the description has been located washed up on shore about 60 miles south of Manzanillo. But a body has not been found ... I think there is hope he still is alive.
Just when I thought I was done updating this blog, I almost forgot to tell you about the real parade and the carnival. The best part of the parade were the horses ... no kidding. They were just grand, high stepping and dancing down the parade route. The worst part of the parade was everything else - the theme was "Pirates of the Caribbean" which included bawdy dress, drinking, way over the top loud music and kids of all ages participating in rather obnoxious behavior. Later in the evening, dance groups led off the entertainment and the sights of little girls, overweight teens and obese mothers shaking every part of their bodies to terrible loud music just about did me in. Culturally, it's evident that the Mexicans have a more liberal vision when it comes to sexual innuendos, provocative dress, etc. And that's okay if you are dealing with adults; I am having a hard time rationalizing teaching 6-16 year old girls to flaunt their yet to be developed assets!
I must be getting old! Here's hoping this next week is much happier.
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02/21/2012, Bahia Santiago
February 9 - 19, 2012: We made the arduous 5 mile trip to Bahia Santiago making water while under power. This bay is quite beautiful with its long sandy beaches and colorful umbrellas. It's a great walking beach with roped off swimming areas, impressive homes, restaurants and loaded with tourist activities. Let's not forget the loud music, jet skies and squealing kids romping in the water. This was a good area for us while conducting the radio nets as we had access to the internet for weather and decent listening conditions.
Friday and Saturday I couldn't shake the effects of a sour throat, ear ache and cough. By Sunday the bug won the battle and I was down sleeping for the next 3 days. Not much to write about when looking at the back of my eyelids. By Wednesday, I managed a trip to the beach. That was a big adventure surfing into shore and hustling off the dinghy in time not to get soaked by the next wave. It was probably a 9.95 in the scoring category. Watching the cruisers come into the beach is quite the entertainment factor. We all wear clothes we don't mind getting wet. It's just the way of surf landings.
Wish I had daring stories of grand adventures these past two weeks but quite frankly all we did was take it easy. There has a nasty flu/cold bug going around in the Barra de Navidad area and most likely I got my share. Bob wasn't all that perky either or he used the excuse of my illness to take naps "to be quiet". I guess that lame reasoning works too.
Actually the real news to report was the rain ... yes rain. We had about 2 inches and cloudy skies for the past 10 days. Yahoo! The boat finally got rinsed off from the tip of the mast to her decks.
The laundry is now piling high. It's actually easier to take the boat back to Barra for laundry facilities. At Santiago or Las Hadas the logistics of getting this chore done is far too much work ...hauling it down the beach ... hauling it on the bus ... finding a laundry mat, etc etc. No thanks!
Santiago 19° 11.451N 104°40.356W
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We will have to come over and say hello!
02/21/2012, Ensenada Carrizal
February 6 - 8, 2012: I stocked up on goods from the French Baker so we wouldn't go thru bread withdrawals. He makes an excellent living catering to the tastes of the cruisers. We slipped out of the lagoon at high tide and pointed south to our next destination of Ensenada Carrizal. This is a very nice secluded anchorage where few locals come to except for snorkeling. The water is very clear and still warm so Bob took the opportunity to scrub the waterline and clean the bottom and prop. The only drawback to this area is the southwest swell that rocks the boats. A dinghy cruise around the bay for a few photos shots rounded out our stay.
Ensenada Carrizal 19° 05.688N 104° 26.228W
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02/14/2012, Los Muertos
April 17 - 18, 2012: We cleared the breakwater about 8 am facing about a 30 hour passage across the Sea of Cortez to the Baja, destination - Los Muertos. I was happy the entrance to the estuary was calm and the dredge was sitting idle. Also, the skies were clear with no fog in sight. It was good omen except for the lack of wind.
The day passed rather quickly. Eventually, the wind filled in but where else but right on our nose. Why, why, why does it never come from the correct direction? There was one highlight of the journey Â... seeing the green flash when the sun set. That was spectacular! Finally the conditions were just right with clear skies and good visibility. The night skies were just as awesome Â... so many bright stars along with the milky way. Some of those bright stars kept moving; lots of ship traffic including a ferry and a couple large fishing vessels. Bob also saw a green flash as the sun rose; I can't verify that story since I was happily sleeping.
The morning of the second day found us with flat calm seas and no wind. The remaining 50 miles was a piece of cake. The harbor master at Los Muertos was rather an imposing figure. He came up next to the boat blew, promptly dived but wiggled his tail as if to say hello. Nothing like being greeted by a humpback whale as we entered the anchorage. It's hot and dry over here with the water an incredible blue to aqua in color and very clear.
We had zipped in our dodger windows for this crossing. It was a good idea after getting soaked on our passage from Chamela to LaCruz. Again we encountered salt spray but also very cool temperatures at night. We actually wore long pants and fleece jackets; a first in a very long time. After a bit of food, it was nap time. I wish I was 20 again Â... this cruising would be a lot easier.
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02/14/2012, Mazatlan
April 12 - 16, 2012: The water is nesting our boat now and it sure feels good Â... now it's time wash off all the yard dust once our hired hand completes the buffing and waxing the cabin top and cockpit. It's amazing the transformation from dull to a shiny spiffed up boat - Ponderosa is looking good.
Bob applied a couple more coats of Armada to the toe rail which polished off our varnish supply that we carried aboard. Hummmm, too bad we can't do any brightwork for awhile. I did the usual shopping, laundry and cleaning down below along with napping and visiting neighbors; a woman's work is never done.
Just when I thought peace and quiet would settle on Mazatlan after Holy Week, the motorcyclists arrived by the thousands. Apparently in years past, about 7,000 bikers would converge here in town. This year's estimate was only 4,000 but it sounded like 7,000. Lots of Harleys along with other well known bike makers were driven by people of all ages; mostly Mexicans but there was evidence of gringos joining in the fun. I'm not sure where or what all the activities entailed but it looked like everyone was having a good time. Well it's time to go Â... all the chores are done, the freezer full and the weather looks good for a crossing to the Baja. Adios Mazatlan!
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02/05/2012, Barra de Navidad
January 25 - Feb 5, 2012: It's nice to be back to Barra de Navidad! This small community is one of the cleanest and most charming of the small Mexican towns. It sure doesn't hurt to be spoiled by the French baker with his delivery of fresh pastries and breads to your boat. Life moves rather slowly here.
We toured around the waterfront assessing all the hurricane damage. Unlike the U.S., these businesses simply blocked off the area of danger ... a few strategically placed chairs and tape and presto they are back in business. No OHSA, no building permits, no nothing! Life is simple and uncomplicated.
I have been busy sewing dorade and handrail covers and will moving onto fabricating the sun shade material between our dodger and bimini. We definitely have needed more sun protection while underway. At anchor we are well covered. The never ending boat chores keep on ticking like a good Timex watch. I have also been spending a lot of computer time organizing our e-books and digital movies. This new e-stuff is not without its burden to keep organized.
Bob worked on the brightwork in the cockpit and added a couple more coats of varnish. It has held up quite nicely thanks to being shaded by the bimini and dodger. Pretty soon I need to face re-oiling the teak down below. It's a constant battle to keep the woodwork dust free (well reasonably clean) especially when our hatches and portlights are open 24/7. Mexico is very dusty!
We wandered into Meleque for a bit of grocery shopping and a quick stop at the bank to exchange our $500 peso notes into small denominations. Rarely do you use $500 notes around town since most stores cannot make change. You stick with $20, $50, $100 & $200 peso notes plus the $10 peso coins. In some of the banks you take a number and wait your turn ... they flash your number along with the cashier window you can make your transaction at.
I am only exchanging about $3500 pesos into small bills and to my surprise the bank turned me away ... they could not make the transaction. Can you believe this??? A bank without enough money to handle the town's banking business. It totally blows me away! No wonder people hide their money in mattresses and tin cans. Last week we had stopped by to use the ATM machine and it didn't have enough money to disburse my request of $4000 pesos or about $300 USD. We always draw out our maximum daily cash limit to lessen the foreign transaction fees.
We will be leaving the lagoon tomorrow to make fresh water and dump our other tanks. There are several nice anchorages with 20-25 miles of Barra so it's easy to move around and take in different scenary. In the meantime, watching the Super Bowl is the most important item on the agenda. Let's hope for a good game!
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