06/26/2007, Taiohae Bay, Nuku Hiva, Marquesas, French Polynesia
Certain traditions of the Polynesians have continued, despite the French influence in these islands. Tattoos originated (or so I have read) in Polynesia and were a way for people to transcribe their personal and tribal histories upon their body. The tattoo artist in Taiohae Bay is Matatiki (phonetic). And, no, neither Sam or I elected to get any tattoos, although a few other sailors availed themselves of the opportunity to have a genuine Polynesian tattoo. Certainly a good number of the locals -- both men and women -- have continued with the tradition.
In speaking with Matatiki, he explained that the tattoos on his face tell of his family, his island, and of Hawaii. (Not sure why Hawaii was in there, but between his broken English and my atrocious French and non-existent Marquisian, I never did find out that answer.) When I asked him if anyone ever had their entire face tattooed, he shook his head, strongly said "No" and looked at me as if I was out of my mind. Hmmm....guess I should have known that, right? Obviously having 1/2 of your face tattooed is just fine, but an entire face would be pushing it over the edge. I guess I need to remember that in case I ever feel the urge to risk hepatitis and inject myself with ink.
Many of the Polynesian men wear large bone necklaces. Matatiki explained that his was made from the teeth of one of his horses (presumably it died first!) and that the center piece was made from cow. He explained that horse bones and teeth are yellow, but cow bones are white. But, you knew that already, didn't you?
It is these interactions that make our travels so interesting. You just couldn't find these Kodak moments at the deli in Boca Raton.
|
Comments [1]
06/14/2007, Daniel's Bay, Nuku Hiva
Today we all hiked to the base of the third largest waterfall in the world. It was a gorgeous 2.5 hour hike (one way), complete with the fording of small rivers. It rained sporadically on our way to the waterfall, and on the way back it drizzled a light rain the whole way, which actually felt pretty refreshing and caused nearly the entire path to become a small stream. This photos was taken from a point while we were still over an hour away from the fall.
We were going to swimming in the pool at the base of the waterfall, but the water was actually pretty murky from being constantly stirred up AND we saw several freshwater eels with thick tails about 4 inches across (kind of flat, but flared) and decided otherwise. I'm sure that the eels wouldn't have posed a threat, but Tori and Alison weren't buying into that.
|
06/10/2007, Taoihae Baie, Nuku Hiva
Sam and Alison took off for a trek to find the ancient village in this area. Before the arrival of missionaries, most of the villages were located inland and up the mountainside. Presumably the locale was cooler, with less sand-related bug nuisances, closer to fresh water streams, closer to the fruit trees, and, most importantly, an easier location to defend against marauding enemy tribes. But, those missionaries knew better and made them move the villages to the shore so that it would be easier to get supplies off boats.
Here is Alison being dwarfed by two of the traditional community houses. Notice the massive size of the stones.
|
06/06/2007, Taiohae Baie, Nuku Hiva
Sam was over at a friend's boat one evening and they decided to cast their lines over the side just to see what would hit. Do you think that if there are baby hammerheads there just might be adult ones, too, in the bay? If you don't see the locals swimming out through the bay, then you better not either. Actually, I've just determined to have an Aussie attitude about sharks. Now when I go snorkeling I specifically look for sharks, because then I never seem to find them. Sam is still a bit leary of sharks -- and yes, there are lots of them here in the Pacific. But I reminded him that he has a better chance of being struck by lightning than getting eaten by a shark. Ooops, forgot that he's actually been struck twice. Uh-oh. Maybe he better stay on the boat.
|
06/03/2007, Taiohae Baie, Nuku Hiva
See the Mother's Day in French Polynesia entry for more info. Some of these fellows were quite intense -- especially the one second from the left.
|
06/03/2007, Taiohae Baie, Nuku Hiva
One of the young women dancers. (See the entry for Mothers Day in French Polynesia for more info.)
|
06/03/2007, Taiohae Baie, Nuku Hiva
Mother's Day is held the first Sunday in June in French Polynesia. Rose Corser, an ex-pat who firsts sailed to these islands in the early 1970's to work on her dissertation on Marquisan art and who subsequently permanently settled here in 1979, hosted a pig roast at her restaurant and provided entertainment in the form of traditional dancing and music by a local group. In addition to the roast pig which had been cooked in an underground oven, we also enjoyed poisson cru, which is raw fish marinated in coconut milk (really delicious) and lots of other local specialties as well. Rose has inspired some of the local young adults to form a dance troupe so that the traditional dances do not die. The dancing was mainly perfomed by the young men and is not hula-type dancing at all. Combining warrior-like moves and heavy breathing and chants, these dances were originally meant to instill fear in their enemies as they approached. It is really something to see and to hear. The young women's dancing was much different and consisted of many arm movements and tiny steps on tiptoe.
|
05/29/2007, Baie du Controlleur, Nuku Hiva
So, what do we eat while we are cruising? Well, lots of the regular "stuff" just like we did back in the States, but also some new delights, too. We had acquired a taste for breadfruit (that would the the round bumpy item in the photo) while in Grenada and so were glad to have it on board once again. The fruit that looks like grapefruit is actually pamplemousse, which is just a Polynesian variety of grapefruit, but it tends to be a bit sweeter and -- get this -- is usually seedless. Why couldn't any of the Florida grapefruit growers ever figure that out? Or did they? We've been away so long that I can't remember now if it was possible to buy seedless grapefruits in the States or not.
As for breadfruit, you basically cook them the same way that you would cook potatoes and they do taste very similar, perhaps a bit sweeter. But first you have to peel it and steam it for about 25 minutes or so. After that, you can cut them like steak fries and fry them. Or you may fix them like mashed potatoes or hash browns. Really, only your imagination limits what you can do with them. Perhaps you can ask your local grocer to carry them. Hah!
|
05/28/2007, Northern Hiva Oa anchorage (Pua Mau)
Yes, yes, I know. My mom is a horrible blogger right now. I was beating up on her today for it. Main reason for no new posts? Well, she doesn't like to post a post without a precious picture of something or somewhere. I say, save the people, don't make them think we've been attacked by the locals!
Which could happen.
Not until 1950 did the people here stop being cannibalistic. A bit scary? Yup, it is. :O Well, I just wanted to drop a post over on this blog for you peoples who are always hoping for a new post to appear. Here is one for you. If you're even more anxious you can pop over to my blog, which is a mix of posts from my head. Some cruising, sailing stuff, some teenage stuff, a mix of stuff all together. Get the perspective of a just about 14 year old girl who lives on this boat going around the World. For now, ciao. Which is pronounced chow, if you were wondering. -Tori
[Note from Jennifer (the Mom): I think that Tori is exaggerating a bit about the cannibals. Cannibalism was outlawed here around 1890 or so. However, Thor Heyerdahl (his boat was the Kon Tiki) apparently commented that it was still going on in some parts of the Marquesas around or about 1950. But, if it happened at all, it was probably an isolated incident with some of the folks. I don't believe that we have anything to worry about. Why, a nice family today just said that they'd love to have us for dinner tomorrow night.] (Groan, groan --- oldest joke in the world. But. I just couldn't resist.)
|
05/26/2007, North side of Hiva Oa, Marquesas, French Polynesia
Appears that Sam is not the only one who can catch a fish or two, as evidenced by this nice Mahi-Mahi that I brought in. This was a very heavy fish to hold up -- as evidenced by the grimacing expression on my face. One guess as to what we'll be having for dinner tonight.
|
After a few days in Fatu Hiva, it was time to move on to the island of Hiva Oa and do our official check in, as well as post our bond (over $5,000 US for our family) so that we could enter this lovely country. The bond is to ensure that we actually leave. The French do want you to come visit ... and then they want to make sure that you leave. Members of the EEC do not have to post the bond, though.
We are experiencing "sticker shock" in a grand way (not that it was unexpected). After walking around town a bit, we stopped in the afternoon at a snack shop and ordered 2 beers and a soda. That was $18.00 US. Ouch! Sodas in the store are nearly $2.00 per can. I don't believe that we will be eating out very often here -- if at all!
|
05/14/2007, Fatu Hiva, Marquesas, French Polynesia
Our first sight of land in 22 days, this being day 23 of our Pacific passage. I wish I could tell you stories of high seas and monstrous storms since that is what sailors love to tell you about, but we actually had a nice boring passage. We had four or five days of rough seas that caused some of us (OK, so that would be me) whether or not I had in me to continue on through the Indian Ocean and the Atlantic, but those conditions passed quickly enough. It wasn't that I was seasick, I was just tired of trying to cook and having food sliding everywhere. It is those type of nuisances that can really, really begin to annoy one.
Compared to what we sailed through going to windward from Florida to the Caribbean, the Pacific (at least so far) has been a piece of cake. So, all of you sailors who are still sloshing around in the Caribbean, come on through the Canal and enjoy some nice sailing!
|
05/14/2007, Fatu Hiva
Almost time to put the anchor down . . . . And, then, 10 hours of solid uninterrupted sleep for everyone! (Well, after the celebratory champagne and cherry cheesecake.)
|
05/14/2007, Near Fatu Hiva, Marquesas
Just 12 miles to go to the waypoint at the south end of Fatu Hiva, and then another 7 miles north to the Bay of Virgins anchorage. Captain Sam has not been a contributor to this blog since he basically hates working on a computer. But, this is what he wrote in this morning's log book (he logs, he just doesn't blog):
"The sea is calm and the winds are light as I patiently await the arrival of our beloved Fatu Hiva. All the hopes and dreams of a Polynesian paradise are welling up inside me as I ponder the landfall. The people, the land, the water, what will she have for me? We will soon see! As we sail along, the last miles of this 3,000 nautical mile voyage seem to pass painfully slow although the total passage seemed to have passed rather quickly, the routine was developed early and every day and mile went by almost like meditation, but the day is upon us! We will drop our hook in a totally new part of the world like the early explorers before us and that pray that the natives are friendly and the harbor secure. Until then, I wait, Dreaming!" - Sam
|
05/09/2007, South Pacific Ocean
Well, just 550 miles to go. When we started out from the Galapagos, we had about 3,000 miles to go ... so we are getting much closer. I believe that Tori is ready to make landfall. Overall, though, I have been very pleasantly surprised at how relaxing this passage has been. We did have a few rough days, but generally the wind and waves have been kind to us and I've enjoyed the sense of "being away from it all."
I finished Tolstoy's "Anna Karenina" (and, no, I am not up for "War and Peace" right now) and Flaubert's "Madame Bovary", and today finished "Queen Bee of Mimosa Branch." (Hey - after all that highbrow literature, I needed just a good, fun, easy read!) Sam finished Victor Hugo's "Les Miserables", as well as a few Dirk Pitt novels by Cussler, and some other criminal defense attorney novel. Surprisingly, Sam and I haven't watched any movies on this passage, although the girls have. Generally, if we are running the generator (to charge the batteries), then the girls go down to Ali's room and plug a movie in. We don't need to run the generator to do that, but with the autopilot and chartplotter on all the time and the radar running at night, we need to conserve power as much as possible.
Assuming that we can maintain at least 6 knots, we should make landfall on Sunday. But, there is a tropical cyclone near Pitcairn which, although not a threat to us, is pulling the wind from this area.
|
