07/24/2007, Fakarava, Tuamotus, French Polynesia
We've been "houseless," but certainly not "homeless" for several years now. Boy, that could soon change, though. Sam came across this oceanfront property that has real fixer-upper appeal and potential. This "maison" features a split level plan, including a loft, deck and even a pantry. Real open-air appeal.
Ummm maybe we might pass on the opportunity. Any takers for a slice of paradise?
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07/22/2007, Fakarava, Tuamotus, French Polynesia
We have had some terrific snorkeling here in the Tuamotus. The water is often a beautiful deep turquoise blue, other times it is a rich cerulean blue, but always it is clear and inviting. (I never knew for sure what color "cerulean blue was, but we just recently watched "The Devil Wears Prada" with Meryl Streep and now I have been thoroughly educated on the importance of cerulean blue.) The visibility has been nothing less than spectacular. The tropical reef fish are different here than in the Caribbean, though, and we are enjoying trying to identify the various new species. Some species are the same, though. Unfortunately, since we don't have a fish book for the Pacific, our identification has been limited to comments such as, "Did you see that one with the Pinocchio-type nose that looks like a swordfish-wannabe?" Not exactly scientific. And, of course, we've had several escorts on each snorkel trip: black-tip sharks.
The way I figure it, beagles and black-tip sharks have a lot in common. Beagles are basically good-natured dogs that just like to be free of a leash and wander around the neighborhood in search of some food scraps. Hey, that sounds exactly like a black-tip shark. Black tips are basically good-natured chaps who just like to carouse around a bit. Their neighborhood may be the coral reef rather than suburbia, but a 'hood is a 'hood. Beagles are inquisitive and will usually come around to see what is happening if they notice some action somewhere. Ditto for the black-tip shark. Beagles like to chase rabbits and other wildlife just for the fun of it. Black-tip sharks seem to enjoy cruising the reefs trying to cause havoc in much the same way, but generally causing no harm (and most of the time being completely ignored, to their likely chagrin).
But, have you ever tried to take away the dog food bowl when a beagle is eating? I dare any one of you to try that risky maneuver. (Kids, don't try this at home.) Anyone who has been so brave knows all too well that the mild-mannered slightly pudgy beagle will morph into a killer Rottweiler/Doberman/Pit Bull mix that promptly chomps down and takes off a finger or two from the offending hand. And so goes it with black-tip sharks. As long as you don't try to take their food away (such as taking the spear with that nice fish on the end of it out of their reach), then they aren't likely to cause you any harm. But, you take their food bowl away, and, well, there may be consequences to pay.
(Dedicated to Max, our friends Dan, Susan and Matt's beagle. Hi, guys!)
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07/22/2007, Makemo, Tuamotus, French Polynesia
Here's an additional photo to go along with the entry about black tip sharks. Just like a pack of beagles out for the hunt.
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07/15/2007, Makemo, Tuamotus, French Polynesia
Makemo: What a gorgeous place! The Marquesas with their dramatic steep volcanic mountains covered with their dense lush foliage were certainly beautiful, too. But, I so enjoy waking up and enjoying my morning cup of coffee in the cockpit while I gaze upon crystal clear blue water and palm trees waving on shore in the light breeze. The water is so clear within this atoll that you can see clear to the bottom in 35 feet of water. Very nice. We were in Raroria yesterday (another atoll in the Tuamotus), but the wind was kicking up from the SE and we had a lot of coral heads in the anchorage right behind us, so we decided to move on.
Yesterday was Bastille Day here. Raroria had several activities planned: pitonque (aka bocce) tournaments, longboat races and volleyball, along with a BBQ of some sort. So, we thought that Makemo, being even a larger village (relatively speaking) would also have some events planned, but they are in the process of building a new gymnasium and the supply boat was arriving with tons of aggregate to be unloaded, so they decided it was more worthwhile to have the young men working rather than celebrating. Also, although these are French islands, it seems as though the locals think of Bastille Day as a holiday for the French, not necessarily for them. Polynesians have their own festival, Heiva, which runs from the end of June to mid-July, and they seem to place more emphasis on that celebration.
We had a domestic morning: laundry, defrosting the freezer and cooking. (Sorry folks, it's not cocktails with umbrellas all the time when you're cruising.) This afternoon we invited the girls from Encanto to go swimming with us and now Tori and Alison are over at their boat making "milkshakes." (We supplied the ice and sweetened condensed milk and the other boat is supplying their industrial strength VitaMix blender. I think the motor on it is larger than our small dinghy motor. No joke.) So, they are not technically milkshakes like one would get at Dairy Queen, but they are still pretty darned good.
Sam and John from Encanto are over on shore cleaning the coconuts they gathered on their dinghy exploration earlier this afternoon. It takes some time and there's certainly a technique to it all. It's actually pretty difficult work to get the meat out of the shell. If they get them done soon enough, while the girls are still making milkshakes, then there could be some coconut milkshakes to be shared. Speaking from past experience, those are really hard to beat.
And that is life in paradise for today. Ta-ta.
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07/14/2007, Raroria, Tuamotus, French Polynesia
Around 1950 or so, Thor Heyerdahl and the his raft, the Kon Tiki, unceremoniously arrived at Raroria and promptly crashed into the southeastern corner of this atoll, thereby ending the famous voyage.
You will be happy to know that we were able to arrive and depart Raroria without any of the problems that Thor experienced. The pass into the atoll was a bit of ride, though, with the current running at about 5 knots against us on the way in. When the tide is running hard, the water boils up like a witches' cauldron. So, we waited for what we thought was slack tide or close to it, but since the tide tables are not exactly dead-on in most of the Tuamotus, you have to rely on your observations rather than a strict timetable perusal. We still had the outgoing tide coming out against us (as we wanted) and we had no problems. But, for those cruisers who aren't used to inlets where the water really rushes in and out (say, like the Boynton Beach or Jupiter inlets in Florida) and aren't used to eyeball-navigation around coral heads based on the observations of crew serving as spotters on the bow (as everyone has to while cruising the Bahamas), I suppose it could be a bit of a different type of area to navigate through.
P.S.: As an update, we have been to several atolls since I wrote this entry (Raroria, Makemo, Tahanea, and Raroria) and none of them have been as terrible as the guide books would have you believe. Raroria was the "worst" of them, and it certainly wasn't a monster by any means. A little common sense goes a long way: know the tide tables; observe the pass for awhile by lingering outside before attempting to go through; don't try to sail through; do it in good light; watch your SOG (speed over ground) and push the engine harder when necessary. Going in against an outgoing tide is a better idea than surfing your way in to an unknown atoll with offending reefs and coral heads in abundance. Just common sense.
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07/06/2007, Taiohae Baie, Nuku Hiva, Marquesas, French Polynesia
Horses are very popular in the Marquesas. This image brings back fond memories of how I spent a good part of my time while growing up on a farm in Ohio. If you ever wanted to bring a good item to trade in the Marquesas, pick up some inexpensive saddles in Mexico or Panama and they'd be worth a fortune here. The local saddles leave a lot to be desired as they are basically carved out of wood. After having the opportunity to race horses down a street with one of the local guys from Pua Mau, Hiva Oa, I can personally attest to their lack of comfort!
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07/02/2007, Daniel's Bay, Nuku Hiva
Ever since we arrived in the Marquesas over a month ago and have heard the baaaiing (or whatever sound it is that goats make -- sounds like a child crying actually) of the wild goats in the hills, Sam has wanted some goat meat. I have had goat before at Indian restaurants and in the Bahamas and, quite frankly, I wasn't too thrilled with it.
The locals use their dogs to hunt and kill the wild goats and wild pigs which wander the lush green mountains in French Polynesia. This morning we woke to the obvious sounds of a goat being hunted down by two dogs. The dogs finally killed the goat down by the waterside and then stayed by the goat waiting for their owner to arrive (as is the routine established long, long ago). (This may seem harsh to some, but this is how they put meat on their tables for them families.) However, the dog's owner was not at home, having gone to Taiohae Baie for the Heiva Nui festivities. We thought it a terrible shame to just let the meat go to waste, so Sam went to the village just to the west of Daniel's Bay and explained the situation.
As quick as can be, one of the young men said "Let's go" (or the equivalent thereof) and hopped into our dinghy. The young man, who is named Aho (phonetic), quickly field dressed and skinned the goat, and then, as a present, provided us with about half of the goat. In return, we gave him four beers (in French Polynesia, a can of beer at the store costs nearly $4.00) and a pound of coffee (worth $12.00 here). He was quite happy with the exchange, but wouldn't let it end. After Sam returned him to his village, he presented us with a large stalk of bananas. And that is typical of how business with the villagers is conducted.
Aho provided Sam with directions regarding how to cook it the "traditional way" (using soy sauce and oyster sauce, of all things) and I have to admit that it was actually quite good. Unlike the other times when I've had goat and the meat had a strong goat flavor, this was actually quite mild and not very gamey at all.
Maybe now Sam can FINALLY stop talking about getting a goat.
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07/01/2007, Daniel's Bay, Nuku Hiva
I guess most couples would be thrilled to celebrate an anniversary in French Polynesia. I guess that's why Sam brought us here, right? Some friends of ours were going to hike to the waterfall, so since we enjoyed it so much the first time around, we decided to do it again. (See prior photo and story from June 14th). The waterfall is actually right behind us, but you can't see it in this photo.
This time it didn't rain the entire way and Sam even went swimming in the pool at the base. He didn't see any eels, but as we were leaving and traversing a creek, I did see one about 2 feet long hiding under a rock. I made the mistake of pointing it out to one of our friends and he promptly touched the eel's tail which made it shoot straight out into the stream towards me. Thanks, guy. But, alas, the current caught it and carried it away at the last moment. According to the locals, the eels do bite. They do eat them, so I guess they should know.
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06/29/2007, Taiohae Baie, Nuku Hiva, Marquesas, French Polynesia
Today marked the start of the Heiva Nui Festival which takes place on most of the islands throughout French Polynesia and lasts for several weeks. Today was also Autonomy Day, which recognizes the support that the French have given the islands, but which also recognizes the autonomy of the islands. Frankly, I'm not sure if it is coincidence that the two holidays collide or if it was planned that way so that the French could have a role in their local festivities.
The various sports teams paraded through town, with each stopping in front of the tent that held the village officials (mayor, gendarme (police chief), etc.) Each group sang a song in Marquisian, which was obviously a tribute of some kind to the officials. Several of the groups had young men performing traditional dances and chants. Then there was the obligatory fire truck and ambulance rambling through with their sirens on full tilt. (Some things never change, no matter where you are.)
Flowers are still very much a part of the islands' traditions. The majority of the women and teenage girls wear a flower behind their ears every day. Behind the right ear, proclaims that you are married. Behind the left ear, that you are single. And, if you are wearing your flower backwards behind your left ear it means that you are ready "right now."
They often even wear these lovely flower wreaths which often contain laurel leaves (what Americans would call Bay leaves) and they smell just wonderful. These two older ladies were just thrilled to pose for my camera. They had been to watch the parade that morning.
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06/29/2007, Taoihae Baie, Nuku Hiva
I believe this would be the equivalent of the Queen/Princess float, but I'm not sure about that. This was the only float with only one person on it. This was probably a tremendous amount of work to create with all the plaiting of the palm leaves.
From the other decorations present for the festival, it is apparent that the Polynesians appreciate the beauty of their surroundings and love to use palm fronds, flowers and shells in the most artistic ways to decorate.
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06/26/2007, Taiohae Bay, Nuku Hiva, Marquesas, French Polynesia
Certain traditions of the Polynesians have continued, despite the French influence in these islands. Tattoos originated (or so I have read) in Polynesia and were a way for people to transcribe their personal and tribal histories upon their body. The tattoo artist in Taiohae Bay is Matatiki (phonetic). And, no, neither Sam or I elected to get any tattoos, although a few other sailors availed themselves of the opportunity to have a genuine Polynesian tattoo. Certainly a good number of the locals -- both men and women -- have continued with the tradition.
In speaking with Matatiki, he explained that the tattoos on his face tell of his family, his island, and of Hawaii. (Not sure why Hawaii was in there, but between his broken English and my atrocious French and non-existent Marquisian, I never did find out that answer.) When I asked him if anyone ever had their entire face tattooed, he shook his head, strongly said "No" and looked at me as if I was out of my mind. Hmmm....guess I should have known that, right? Obviously having 1/2 of your face tattooed is just fine, but an entire face would be pushing it over the edge. I guess I need to remember that in case I ever feel the urge to risk hepatitis and inject myself with ink.
Many of the Polynesian men wear large bone necklaces. Matatiki explained that his was made from the teeth of one of his horses (presumably it died first!) and that the center piece was made from cow. He explained that horse bones and teeth are yellow, but cow bones are white. But, you knew that already, didn't you?
It is these interactions that make our travels so interesting. You just couldn't find these Kodak moments at the deli in Boca Raton.
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06/14/2007, Daniel's Bay, Nuku Hiva
Today we all hiked to the base of the third largest waterfall in the world. It was a gorgeous 2.5 hour hike (one way), complete with the fording of small rivers. It rained sporadically on our way to the waterfall, and on the way back it drizzled a light rain the whole way, which actually felt pretty refreshing and caused nearly the entire path to become a small stream. This photos was taken from a point while we were still over an hour away from the fall.
We were going to swimming in the pool at the base of the waterfall, but the water was actually pretty murky from being constantly stirred up AND we saw several freshwater eels with thick tails about 4 inches across (kind of flat, but flared) and decided otherwise. I'm sure that the eels wouldn't have posed a threat, but Tori and Alison weren't buying into that.
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06/10/2007, Taoihae Baie, Nuku Hiva
Sam and Alison took off for a trek to find the ancient village in this area. Before the arrival of missionaries, most of the villages were located inland and up the mountainside. Presumably the locale was cooler, with less sand-related bug nuisances, closer to fresh water streams, closer to the fruit trees, and, most importantly, an easier location to defend against marauding enemy tribes. But, those missionaries knew better and made them move the villages to the shore so that it would be easier to get supplies off boats.
Here is Alison being dwarfed by two of the traditional community houses. Notice the massive size of the stones.
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06/06/2007, Taiohae Baie, Nuku Hiva
Sam was over at a friend's boat one evening and they decided to cast their lines over the side just to see what would hit. Do you think that if there are baby hammerheads there just might be adult ones, too, in the bay? If you don't see the locals swimming out through the bay, then you better not either. Actually, I've just determined to have an Aussie attitude about sharks. Now when I go snorkeling I specifically look for sharks, because then I never seem to find them. Sam is still a bit leary of sharks -- and yes, there are lots of them here in the Pacific. But I reminded him that he has a better chance of being struck by lightning than getting eaten by a shark. Ooops, forgot that he's actually been struck twice. Uh-oh. Maybe he better stay on the boat.
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06/03/2007, Taiohae Baie, Nuku Hiva
See the Mother's Day in French Polynesia entry for more info. Some of these fellows were quite intense -- especially the one second from the left.
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