The Corinth Canal and the Saronic Gulf
08 August 2009
Belinda and Kit
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15th July - Corinth Canal - It was a burning hot morning with no wind when we left Corinth Harbour and motored over to the Canal entrance where several yachts were milling around and a large cargo vessel was waiting. The Canal is one way so westbound ships and yachts had to exit before we could enter. The heat was stifling even out on the water so we were relieved when the hydraulic road bridge lowered into the water and one large ship, almost touching the sides, came out followed by three yachts. The green light signalled the all-clear and we joined a procession of yachts following the cargo vessel into the entrance past the traffic waiting for their road to re-emerge from the depths!!
The 3.2 miles long canal at the east extremity of the Gulf of Corinth links the Ionian and the Aegean seas between mainland Greece and the Peloponnese. It was envisaged as long ago as 7th Century BC when Periander, tyrant of ancient Corinth tried to cut a passage through the rocks. Finding this an impossible task he had a paved slipway, or dhiolkos, built over the isthmus and sailors dragged their ships across on rollers from one sea to another. Subsequently Alexander the Great, Caligula and Nero all instigated digs but it was a French engineering company who finally completed the canal in the 19th Century.
As we moved further into the canal the 79m sheer rock sides towered above us and we motored under road and rail bridges marvelling at the immensity of the project. Nearing the eastern end another road bridge lowered into the water and we passed through to tie up next to the offices and pay our fee. The Corinth Canal is, per mile, one of the most expensive waterways in the world. We paid 165 Euros for our 12m yacht - expensive but quite an experience!!!
Heading out into the Saronic Gulf we had light winds so a relaxing sail took us Korfos on the NE Peloponnese, where we dropped anchor despite the entreaties of two restaurant owners to tie up on their pontoon!! The weather by now is really hot and sticky, 32C even in the shade of the cabin and we swim a lot to cool off- even tho' the sea temperature is also 32C!!! The nights are hot and sticky too and we often take a 'midnight' dip in the cool dark water. Let's hope it gets no hotter!!!
16th July - Aigina: Next day we were off again to Aigina in the Saronic Gulf, popular with Athenians who descend on the island in great numbers to escape the heat of the City. We anchored just off the town of Aigina, and were amazed at the number of ferries coming and going - it was non-stop! Despite its popularity the island has a 'local' feel so we spent two days exploring the narrow streets and enjoying the bustle of the colourful fish and vegetable markets. There were several Caiques (local fishing boats) selling fruit and veg on the quay, which seemed utterly charming; until we were taken in, and given expensive near-rotten veg from the back of the pile!! A lesson for us!!!
18th July - Ak Sounion: With no sign yet of the dreaded Meltemi but we pressed on northeastward to Sounion Bay, our last stop before heading out into the Aegean. This journey had us on sharp lookout for the numerous fast ferries that ply the routes between Athens and the islands - they speed so fast that they seem to be on the horizon one minute, then almost on top of us! ...their wash puts up tall standing waves that send us rocking back and forth as if in a storm!
An ancient temple to Apollo stands on the headland at Sounion creating a dramatic backdrop to this lovely anchorage. The water is a beautiful turquoise colour and incredibly clear - we could easily see our anchor 8m below!! Again the close proximity to Athens made this a popular spot and we anchored in the company of several enormous 'Gin Palaces', the sizes of which made Quilcene look like a dinghy!!!