People of the Salt Water

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North through the Ionian

20 September 2011
Belinda and Kit
Current Position: 39 37.5N 019 55.7E Mandraki Harbour, Corfu

View more pictures at: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/yacht.quilcene

Heading north through the Ionian we revisited several of the islands and mainland anchorages we'd been to in 2009 and many new ones. Our route took us from Killini to mainland Mesolonghi and Petalas, then out to the islands: Ithaca, Kalamos, Levkas, then back to mainland Preveza and the Gulf of Amvrakikos and out again to Paxos, Sivota and Corfu.

We had often studied the chart and imagined that the 'inland sea' (Amvrakikos) would be interesting - in reality it was not nearly so exciting; the water is green (like swimming in cabbage water) and there are lots of jellyfish to watch out for. This appears to be a result of the numerous fish farms dotted around its perimeter. ..although one other spin off is that it is home to dozens of dolphins attracted by farm escapees and fry. They kept us entertained, diving and playing around Quilcene as we sailed.

The Ionian islands are beautiful; as we move further north the vegetation is more lush and green, probably because Corfu has the highest rainfall of all the islands! However we haven't seen any yet - only a few drops, and an amazing display of lightening over distant inland mountains. All this greenery seems to suit the mosquitoes who still make a B-line for me!!

It's still very hot, often in the mid 30's, and the winds around the islands are mostly light, coming up in the early afternoon and blowing until sundown - a relief after the wild excesses of the Meltemi in the Aegean. It took a while to relax and realise that the Maistro here is less of a threat! The downside is that we are not the only yachties to appreciate this fact -the popular anchorages are so busy (lots of charter boat companies here) that it can be difficult to find a spot to drop the hook!

On the subject of anchorages we have made several (grumpy old people) observations; once we have found a nice spot and settled down, another yacht (usually a chartered one) always seems to appear and drop their anchor in such a position that they swing back onto us! Anchoring is not such a dark art but it does involve noting the position of the boats already swinging!

Anchorages near any holiday spots can also be very noisy; there are invariably motorbikes roaring about until the early hours, and often loud 'disco' music or karaoke from seafront bars. Out on the water you'd think it would be quiet but the sound floats across with nothing in the way to mute it! Even in more remote places there will usually be a nearby road, but as night approaches the traffic thins out; lorries seem to disappear first, then cars then motorbikes - peace at last!...but then a dog will start barking and that sets off a chain reaction with the local dog population! Oh, a peaceful anchorage is a joy to find!!

So now we are on Corfu - our first visit to Homer's 'beautiful and rich land'. The old town is charming, a blend of Italian, French and British architecture and culture with pink and ochre Venetian mansions, Parisian style arcades, English looking cricket ground/village green and cool Greek colonnades.

Looking for Lidl!!! We met up with a Dutch couple, Herta and Fred on yacht Pegasus, who told us there is a Lidl close to Corfu town and near the shore. Lidl may not sound very exciting but we cruisers are pleased to find one because they sell many of our favourite things at realistic prices - not least beer and wine! We set off on our quest and slowly sailed around the bay scanning the shore with binoculars for the familiar blue and yellow sign. We made one or two mistakes, almost ending up in a petrol station, but finally spotted the Lidl sign on the coast road and went in as close as we dared before anchoring. We had to wade up the beach dragging the dinghy for the last 100 yards as it was so shallow, but needless to say we filled it up with stores and managed to find a few treats into the bargain!

Soon we'll be heading across the bottom of the Adriatic Sea to the foot of Italy so look out for the next exciting episode!

NB Since writing this we have finally seen rain! A torrential downpour accompanied by strong southerlies and an extended electrical storm! The upside is that we are now tied up in a tiny sailing club harbour at the foot of the old Venetian fort in Corfu Town (see picture above). We have to go up through the ruins and cross the moat to get to town - cool eh!
Comments
Vessel Name: Quilcene
Vessel Make/Model: Bowman 40
Hailing Port: Plymouth, UK
Crew: Kit and Belinda
About:
In our previous lives, Belinda worked as a marine biologist at the MBA Plymouth and Kit was a surveyor for a marine civil engineering company. Over the years we had sailed the south west of England and northern France. [...]
Extra: Quilcene, a Bowman 40, is a masthead cutter designed by Chuck Paine and built in 1991. The name is an American Indian word meaning 'People of the Salt Water', which we feel suits us very well. Quilcene is also a town on the West coast of the USA near Seattle.
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