October in Tunisia began with a two-day public holiday where almost everything closed, so two quiet days for us. Tunisian families wandered around the marina and there was a more relaxed atmosphere now that Ramadan was over. Before leaving Sidi Bou Said we took the TGM to Tunis once more and wandered around its large walled Medina, the heart of the old city. It is an absolute maze of narrow lanes and colourful stores, although they are now mostly aimed at selling to the thousands of tourists that visit, so it feels a bit too commercial. We also took the TGM to the remains of the Punic Ports, one time the hub of Carthaginian prosperity and envy of the Romans, who destroyed it along with Carthage. Not a lot left here now, only two circular pools and remnants of slipways and boathouses, but a detailed scaled model left by British archaeologists shows how sophisticated it was in its heyday, 300 years BC.

Our next destination was Kelibia, a fishing port almost 60 miles away. Setting off as early as possible (we had to retrieve our papers from the police, who have no sense of urgency!), our route took us east first, in order to round Cap Bon, then south. Fair winds were forecast but did not materialise and we had to tack time and again between the mainland and the off lying rocky islands of Zembra and Zembretta to make headway across the Golfe de Tunis. The upside was that it gave us some exhilarating sailing! Approaching Cap Bon, the wind swung around to the south, just where we were about to turn! Deciding that we'd had enough of beating into the wind for one day we checked the pilot book and the ancient chart, and sounded our way into a small bay in the lee of Cap Bon to drop anchor for the night. There were a couple of buoyed nets (set out in the local spiral fashion) which we were careful to avoid, although there was no sign of life anywhere! Cap Bon had a truly wild feel to it, with a cloud that kept forming, dispersing and reforming atop its tall cliffs, sometimes shading us from the late afternoon sun. I swam in the warm water and snorkelled out to check that we'd managed to drop anchor in a sandy patch. As darkness fell, several fishing boats descended on the bay, but stayed only long enough to sort out their nets for the nights fishing, and perhaps have some supper. Later we could see their lights twinkling out at sea long into the night. Despite the wind whistling over the top of the cliffs the water in the bay remained calm, giving us a quiet night

Afterwards we found out that yachts are not supposed to anchor in Tunisian waters without permission from the authorities. Apparently military vessels patrol the coast at night and may ask to see papers or even order yachts into a port whatever the weather!

Next morning two men in a small open fishing boat appeared and checked on the catch in the spiral nets. We called them over and bought two lovely amberjack for a few dinar. We gathered that they had come in their tiny boat from Sidi Daoud, about 9 miles along the coast! We are often surprised to see similar very small boats quite a long way out at sea, they seem to have no life jackets and no fear! - and here was us thinking that we're intrepid!!!

So, we continued onto Kelibia still tacking into a headwind but at least we had plenty of daylight in which to enter the port. Kelibia is a busy fishing port overlooked by an imposing fortress, built on the only hill for miles, and visible all along the coast. It has only one crowded jetty for yachts and this is mostly taken up by local small boats. Still, we were lucky enough to find a place alongside the concrete jetty, and were assisted in mooring up by Habib, a sort of local oddjobber with a Che Guevara cap. The police and customs soon visited and, refreshingly, did not ask for 'gifts'. Kit offered Habib a few dinar for his assistance but Habib only wanted a couple of beers ('hidden in a bag please')! This was one Muslim who didn't subscribe to the 'no alcohol' doctrine!

We stayed in Kelibia for five days and found the people very friendly. However it was a scruffy port: toilets and showers were non-existent and there were scrawny cats everywhere. The electricity supply on the pontoon came from a box that seemed to be falling apart - there were wires going in and out in all directions and the supply was often interrupted! Habib, who seemed to live on a small boat at the end of the pontoon, did his best to help (thus ensuring a supply of beer!). He even went off on his bike to get Kit some wood for a dock fender and a new cockpit instrument panel.

The town of Kelibia was a 15 minute walk away. It's a busy place with a buzzing vegetable market where we shopped for fresh supplies. In a street caf� we tried a local snack, 'brik a l'ouef'. This is an egg fried in a thin crispy pastry case and the trick is to eat it without spilling eggyolk down your shirt! We also tried mechoua, a salad of cooked spicy soft vegetables such as aubergine, tomato and courgette - delicious. One day we wandered up to the fortress, the origins of which date back to the Carthaginian era, with subsequent alterations and additions by the many occupying forces. There were spectacular views north toward Cap Bon, and down to the harbour, where Quilcene lay amongst a jumble of boats. We also took the opportunity to visit Kerkouane, 15km north of Kelibia. This 5th century BC Carthaginian village was only discovered in 1952 and caused great excitement, as it had been abandoned after the fall of Carthage and never reoccupied by the Romans, so it is virtually intact. It stands up to a height of about 4 feet, a complete village with clearly defined streets, houses and drainage systems. Almost every house has a recognisable bath lined with reddish cement or pink and white tiles. In contrast to the Romans who built splendid public baths, the Carthaginians obviously preferred more private facilities!! Once again we were impressed by the sophistication of this early civilisation!

Time was passing and we needed to sort out a winter berth, so on 13th October we left Kelibia early to sail to Hammamet, a further 44m south. It was a glorious morning although there was not a breath of wind to fill our sails and we motored practically all the way. Hammamet is tourist Tunisia: a beautiful white beach lined the coast for miles and more and more white hotels and apartment blocks began to appear as we approached. The sea was busy with mock galleon trip boats, parasailors and jetskis, giving a real 'holiday' feeling. Marina Jasmine Hammamet is huge, holding around 750 boats, and is surrounded with high rise, 'concrete block', soulless looking hotels. There was no expectation of a 'present' here; in fact we were told that officials accepting 'gifts' could be dismissed!! We can only suppose that Tunisia does not want to discourage visitors to tourist areas. However, we disliked Hammamet and decided to press on further south after two nights, even though it would probably have been possible to overwinter there, and people were telling us that marinas further south were full. Before we left we filled the tanks with diesel - at roughly 42p per litre!!!

Despite light winds, we managed some sailing en route to Port El Kantaoui, our next stop. We were fascinated by shoals of tiny flying fish, which skimmed the water under our bows. We had seen them before but not in such large numbers. We passed two large fish farms as we crossed the bay; these were uncharted - no surprise given the age of our charts!!! We also passed close to a Garde Nationale patrol boat and RIB who appeared to take no notice of us, but a few miles further on we were alarmed when the boat came flying up alongside as we were sailing. However, they were friendly and only asked where we were heading, calling out in English 'see you later' as they roared off!!!

Arriving quite late in the day at Port El Kantaoui, we moored up and showed our papers to the police officials (who always appear as soon as we enter port). No-one was around from the port office so we decided to take a taxi early next morning to Monastir, around 25km south (where we still hoped to find a winter berth). Monastir marina was chock-a-block full! Even before we asked it was obvious that there was no room for another yacht.

We were a little disappointed, but back at El Kantaoui we enquired there and were relieved when Amel, the secretary (who seems to run the port) said there was a yacht leaving soon and we could have a berth for a few months!

So here we are! Port El Kantaoui is situated in the middle of a large holiday resort, but is interesting as it is designed along the lines of the ancient villages found in Andalucia, with narrow cobbled winding streets, flower gardens and palm trees. The quays are lined with shops, restaurants and terraces. There are several small supermarkets, cafes and restaurants, the beach is a few yards away and we have use of the three pools. Our 'neighbours' are American, and there is an English couple along the pontoon. There is a German-run micro brewery down the road that serves lovely beer (so Kit says!). Altogether it is a lively place, and we feel quite able to 'live' here for a few months.

We are also in a good location for excursions inland and down the coast, so will be exploring more of Tunisia during our stay.